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Archived 99 24 Valve in Santa Cruz Wont Start!

Archived Is my Generator toast?

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The codes that I am getting are 0113,0118,0123, sometimes I will get a generic pcm or ecm, I can get it to pop up tomorrow to get a #, it had all of these codes stored before I got a scanner and erased them; 1693,0121,0122,0237,0117,0118,0113,1475,0577,.
I don't know if these codes point to a bad vp or ecm? or a bad fpcm on the pump?
 
Now that long list of codes is starting to sound like ECM, Alternator full fielding or AC leakage, or wire harness issue where you have or had a short to B+.

This begs the question, will excessive voltage fry our ever so delicate TPPS sensors?
 
The codes that I am getting are 0113,0118,0123
Just to be clear: Are you saying these trouble codes return each time you clear them and then attempt to start the engine?

P0113 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO HIGH
P0118 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO HIGH
P0123 - APP SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO HIGH​

Besides the obvious (a high voltage error), all of these sensors share the same splice connector (number S165) within the wiring harness, and they share the same grounding pin on the ECM (number 11). Splice 165 is located in the engine wiring harness near the ECM.

You said back in post #4 of this thread that you tested the sensors and found they all have 5 volts. How exactly did you do this? Did you disconnect each sensor and probe the connector pins with a multimeter (ignition key ON)?

If you haven't done so already, you may wish to make the following battery of tests to try and eliminate any wiring harness problems. Do these tests with the ignition key OFF and the ECM connector disconnected. Wiggle and yank on the engine wiring harness in various places while taking the measurements.

1. Check the resistance of each circuit between the sensors and the appropriate pins on the ECM connector. You should measure less than 10 Ohms on each circuit. This is a check for breaks in the circuits.

2. Measure for voltage between the battery + terminal and the end of each circuit. You should find no voltage present. This is a check for shorts to battery +.

3. Measure the resistance between a good engine ground and each end of the wire circuits. This is a check for shorts to ground.

Circuits to test:

IAT Ground: ECM pin 11 to IAT pin "A"

IAT Signal: ECM pin 7 to IAT pin "B"


ECT Ground: ECM pin 11 to ECT pin "A"

ECT Signal: ECM pin 14 to ECT pin "B"


TPS Idle Validation Ground: ECM pin 11 to TPS pin 1

TPS Idle Validation Switch 1 Signal: ECM pin 1 to TPS pin 6

TPS Idle Validation Switch 2 Signal: ECM pin 16 to TPS pin 2

TPS Rheostat Ground: ECM pin 32 to TPS pin 4

TPS Rheostat Supply: ECM pin 31 to TPS pin 3

TPS Rheostat Signal: ECM pin 25 to TPS pin 5​

#ad


If everything checks out OK, then an internal ECM fault is highly suspect.

... it had all of these codes stored before I got a scanner and erased them; 1693,0121,0122,0237,0117,0118,0113,1475,0577
These trouble codes either point to a wiring harness short to battery +, an open circuit (prossibly from disconnecting the wiring harness connectors), or a failing ECM.
I don't know if these codes point to a bad vp or ecm?
If you can't find anything wrong with the wiring harness, after seeing all these codes, the "big picture" points strongly toward a problem with the ECM and not a problem with the VP44.

Please keep us posted,

John L.
 
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I checked the voltage by probing the disconnected ends to ground with a fluke electricians meter,since then I have been using a digital greenlee meter and fresh battery.
The high voltage codes would pop up everytime I would reset the apps,clear the codes and restart the engine,only to have it rev up by itself everytime.
The apps is set correctly and the voltage is within range per. instructions
The electrical tests are exactly what I need to do,and the info is just what I needed to t-shoot this correctly. I suspect splice 165, if all of those sensors are on one splice in the harness they could easily open up under load if the splice was bad(crimped not soldered) wishful thinking? maby a shorted sensor within that line?
I will do the checks most likely on sun. and keep you posted. I will also hard wire the vp to see if the engine will run smooth without the ecm. to make sure the pump is good.
 
I am back at it again,I checked the wiring/connectors,cleaned everything,and checked it with the old and the new tps,same things are happening. the codes are 606,238,123,118,113. Looks like the ecm failed? what do you guys think?

Anyone know where I can find one? a good used one,or one that I could test?
 
... the codes are 606... Looks like the ecm failed? what do you guys think?
Unfortunately THAT trouble code pretty much sums it up and is the kiss of death.



From the Dodge Diagnostic Procedures Manual:



P0606 ECM FAILURE



This DTC is caused by an internal Engine Control Module Failure. Repairs are not possible to the Engine Control Module.





Anyone know where I can find one? a good used one,or one that I could test?
Besides a dealer or cummins ($$$), the only places I've heard of who actually have ECM's to sell are Bob Wagner or Auto Computer Exchange in Florida. I hear nothing but wonderful things about Bob, but Auto Computer Exchange has a very mixed track record. I purchased both a spare ECM and PCM from them through eBay and had absolutely no problems. However, they have an "F" rating with the BBB, but a very high rating on eBay. Do a Google search on complaints against that company and you'll get a taste of what some folks have encountered. Also note that if you try to order an ECM from anyone else, they'll likely just be getting it from Auto Computer Exchange and reselling it to you. If you decide to buy from Auto Computer Exchange, do it through eBay so you have some backing.



Good luck,



John L.
 
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