13 quarts in a 12 quarts crankcase

[Wingate]

not recommended to fill filter, could cause engine failure if any piece of foil or debris gets in filter.

I also would not agree with this statement. Although I can understand the idea of basically "unfiltered" oil not being ideal... . The thought of NO oil is worse. Once the engine is started, if the filter isn't pre-filled, the air trapped inside has to be pushed thru the lube system, and blow what remaining oil off the bearings before the new engine oil reaches the bearings. I would rather send unfiltered oil to the bearings rather than metal on metal contact. Friction bearings are designed with imbedability in mind..... The are NOT designed for metal to metal contact. Even for a brief monent.

If you are concerned about engine oil foil tabs getting into the filter, completely remove them before pouring.

Just my . 02.....

 

[rbattelle]

Filling is good if your careful but Cummins looked into a number or engine failures and the cause was small debris that plugged a small oil hole which destroyed the engine. If you warm the engine then change the oil the parts will still have an oil coating. The oil pressure comes up quickly, no worse than starting a cold engine in the morning. IMO better safe than sorry. In the lifetime of the truck how many times will you change the oil anyway?????

Cummins Bulletin Number 4021271 dated 30 June 2004, Troubleshooting and Repair Manual ISBe and ISB (Common Rail Fuel System) Series Engines chapter 7 (lubrication system):

Here's one I didn't notice before. I have violated it a few times. Before changing the oil,
Page 7-4:

Operate the engine until the water temperature reaches 140°F. Shut off the engine.

Later, on the refill portion:
Page 7-5:

NOTE: Fill the filter with clean lubricating oil before installation.

Page 7-13 (In a separate, bold statement):

█CAUTION█
The lack of lubrication during the delay until the filter is pumped full of oil at startup can damage the engine.

Now, I'm the first person to disregard Cummins and/or Dodge service policies that I think are inappropriate. But in this case, I've always followed the Cummins recommendation.

Ryan

 

[JordanB]

Warm the engine 1st? Hmm. I've always done it cold, but have always filled the filter. On a side note, I used to put a one gallon zip-lock bag around the filter before removing it. It was always unnecessary except for one time when oil poured out of the filter when I unscrewed it. The only thing I remember doing differently was that I took off the oil fill cap before removing the filter (oil has always been drained before removing the filter). Would removing the cap cause this?

 

[rbattelle]

Warm the engine 1st? Hmm. I've always done it cold, but have always filled the filter.

I do too, except in cases where I just pulled in from a drive. I don't think it's critical to heat the engine up. I suspect it has more to do with making sure the oil is sufficiently thinned to flow easily. It *might* be possible to argue that running the engine to 140°F before changing allows all the little bits to get flushed with oil so they're freshly coated for protection on restart after the oil change. MVenditti makes an argument in favor of this in his post. Certainly can't hurt anything.

except for one time when oil poured out of the filter when I unscrewed it. The only thing I remember doing differently was that I took off the oil fill cap before removing the filter (oil has always been drained before removing the filter). Would removing the cap cause this?

It's possible that removing the cap allowed some extra oil to drain down and remain in the filter mount. But I think I usually loosen the cap before draining and I've never had it happen to me. Just a fluke, maybe?

Ryan

 

[BSMcCauley]

Boy this thread has come a long way from the original post warning of wannabe gearheads at the quicklube shop! I don't have room on my truck for any filter wrench that goes over the end of the filter because AC lines are in the way.



My solution to the oil filter removal subject is grip the rim of the filter with the $7 oil filter pliers (Harbor Freight Item # 36778-1VGA) I picked up a long time ago, being careful to avoid the alternator output terminal, and remembering righty-loosey when working from the top. Removing the air filter housing lid and hose to the turbo is jiffy-quick and gives lots of room for swinging filter pliers. Never taken me more than 60 seconds to remove a filter this way and I've never spilled a drop of oil doing it.



My solution for filling the new filter prior to rolling the engine over is to kick on the key and wait for the 12V pre/post lube pump I added back during my very first oil change to prime the system and build 30# oil pressure before I roll the switch the rest of the way and engage the starter.



Regarding proper oil level, my opinion is that the full line on the dip stick is the cold-engine-been-sitting-overnight level and that the "add" line is the proper full line for checking the hot engine at the fuel pumps after getting the fuel hose started.

 

[Wingate]

One of the ideas behind operating the engine to get the oil warmed up is to get any solids into suspension so that when you pull the plug, they are drained out.

If allowed to set overnight and cool, many solids fall out of suspension and sit on the bottom of the pan. They typically won't drain out and end up contaminating the new oil and filter after a change and restart.

 

[NavyDood]

One of the ideas behind operating the engine to get the oil warmed up is to get any solids into suspension so that when you pull the plug, they are drained out.
If allowed to set overnight and cool, many solids fall out of suspension and sit on the bottom of the pan. They typically won't drain out and end up contaminating the new oil and filter after a change and restart.

Eaxactly the reason