Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) How are the 1996`s

[CumminsE263]

Looking at a 96 2wheel auto 5. 9 124 k no ac no power ex cab and I am new to dodge how are these trucks and what should I look for as far as things could be wrong. Asking $5000 I think that's to much. THANKS. .

 

[LVJUNIOR]

look for wrench marks on the fuel injector line farthest forward on the fuel pump and also look for a break off screw on the front engine side of the AFC (on back of the fuel pump with a air line going to it) If there are marks on the injector line nut or the break off screw has been replaced that means someone has hot rodded it at one time and you need to look closer.



look for cracks or evidence of excessive oil around the gear case on the front of the motor this would be a sign of the infamous killer dowel pin failure.



Look at the exhaust manifold and see if any of the bolts have excessive side load. The manifolds will shrink over time and put pressure on the bolts if unchecked it will eventually break the ear off of the manifold or the head.



I would pay $5000 if it is rust free and it shifts well

 

[MLee]

I agree

Looking at a 96 2wheel auto 5. 9 124 k no ac no power ex cab and I am new to dodge how are these trucks and what should I look for as far as things could be wrong. Asking $5000 I think that's to much. THANKS. .

Is this truck a ST or SLT? you say no AC AND no power what? brakes/windows/locks What. I agree 5K is to much if not all working. How is the body? auto, manual? General condition?

Do search on the year and read to satisfy your question. Its been asked before.

 

[wcjp]

Expect the fuel lines to be dry rotted. The starter contacts will need to be replaced. KDP. Highly recommend a DSS-Darrins Steering Stabilizer. Valve Lash will need to be adjusted.

 

[Skydiver]

Plan to repair or replace the fuel guage inside the tank. Check the transmission cooling lines where that are strapped to the engine oil pan. My cooling lines chaffed and started leaking.
I have 183k on my auto with partial fluid changes every 10k. The trannys will not take engine power upgrades unless they are beefed up.

 

[SRath]

Headlight switch is prone to meltdown and the factory headlights just plain suck. There was a recall due to that switch and involved a wiring upgrade, I believe, but mine never got it. Another one had to do with the hood latch, but again, I don't recall why and never got it. I wouldn't let the local Dodge dealership, or any dealership for that matter, work on my kid's little red wagon, much less my Dodge.

If you can, you might consider asking if you can have the truck (engine) checked over at a Cummins dealer. It will cost some bucks, but they do know those motors and I would not be afraid to have the local Cummins dealer work on anything... until I got the bill, anyway. They know more about the Dodge than the Dodge dealer knows about Cummins diesels.

 

[Matt42]

Headlight switch is prone to meltdown and the factory headlights just plain suck. There was a recall due to that switch and involved a wiring upgrade, I believe, but mine never got it. Another one had to do with the hood latch, but again, I don't recall why and never got it. I wouldn't let the local Dodge dealership, or any dealership for that matter, work on my kid's little red wagon, much less my Dodge.



-snip=

If I recall correctly, the headlight switch recall was only for the 3500s. The extra amp draw of the cab top lights would melt the switch. The 2500s, without the cab top lights, normally would not melt the switch, at least not fast, unless the owner added equipment. At least that was the story. I never had a problem. I did the headlight bypass that uses relays, straight from the battery. It was worth it. I also have the DSS steering gear stabilizer, and the adjustable track bar. Actually, right now, I am using an OEM track bar I got at a freight salvage place--for $5--while I rebuild the OEM track bar from the truck. And, drum roll please, my truck has 76,000 miles on it. I don't drive it much, and I keep it locked up behind my house, because those are highly prized for theft, for use in cross-border drug and human trafficking. (The National Geographic series is accurate, but way understated. ) :-{}

 

[SRath]

Roof lights not exclusive to 3500's

My '96 is a 2500 according to the emblems and title, and it has cab roof lights and it melts headlight switches.

 

[Matt42]

My '96 is a 2500 according to the emblems and title, and it has cab roof lights and it melts headlight switches.

Yeah, there ya go. It should have been on the recall. Mine doesn't have the roof lights. They were an option for the 2500. You can fabricate a bypass for the roof lights and other running lights using some relays that won't run all the current thru the switch.

 

[Missouri Mule]

cumminse263, $5000 seems to be fair price for mileage it would be nice if it had A/C.

Mine is a ST and I love the roll up windows and no power locks. Once you adress the KDP issues it will be nice truck as far as the starter solenoid contacts all years have that problem. I just replaced my light switch at 225,000/13 years. It is the body you need to look at(rust).



It is a good ideas to change out the rubber fuel lines (return and supply) you can get the hoses and contact points at Foster Truck .



My Mule has 227,000 and counting.



If he/they are asking $5000 give them a lower price.

 

[Matt42]

cumminse263, $5000 seems to be fair price for mileage it would be nice if it had A/C.

Mine is a ST and I love the roll up windows and no power locks. Once you adress the KDP issues it will be nice truck as far as the starter solenoid contacts all years have that problem. I just replaced my light switch at 225,000/13 years. It is the body you need to look at(rust).

As for rust, it depends on where the truck lived its life. There are places in the West where rust just does not form. Here in Arizona, rust is pretty rare, except in places where the paint evaporates due to the sun. That is not a joke. That surface rust is really easy to eliminate with a sander and some phosphoric acid, since it takes 50 years to perforate. In less ghastly hot places, the sun won't ruin the paint, but rust still won't form. SE and northern Arizona, most of NM, southern Utah, California foothills, Oregon east of the Cascades, etc.

 

[SRath]

You lucky, dry ducks!

Talk about rubbing salt into our rusty Midwestern wounds... :{

50 years to rust through?!!!

Try ONE here!!