Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) PAC-BRAKE and 2000 RAM 24 valve Questions

[CHROME~TURBO]

#@$%! Hi all , sorry it has been so long since I have been on the FORUM. Do see that there are a lot of new members and that is always great to see. I have a question that if anyone has had this problem or might know of a good "FIX FOR IT" other then a big hammer let it be known. LoL here goes.

**I have a 2000 RAM and just turned over 114,000 miles, have done many up grades and mod's to it and have been very happy with the truck and for that mater still am.

Off and on the PAC-BRAKE seems to hang up now and then so you flip off the switch or let the truck drop back to an idle and all is OK. . Then works great for a long time. But sometime you have the P/B on and push on the throttle and the P/B is locked on ( or stuck ) Then as of late it feels like it comes on SLOW but then holds really GREAT like it always has. Put it on when the truck was still new and only 1000 miles. ****** what I have done is checked the under the dash switch it is OK*** Took the small air valve ( think that is what it's called up from the air pump ) cleaned it put it back on worked good for a while but now it acts like it is SLOW to come on and sometime will stick in the ON mode. I have cleaned the part going into the elbow and sprayed with some oil type stuff we muse on the BIG RIGS but still acts like it is hanging up or something?? ANY HELP FROM ANYONE??

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Call Jelag and have him send you a bottle of lube. Probably about $10 or so and lube the acutaator shaft, pivot point, and valve shaft.



I called Pacbrake and was told that I needed a new unit. Called Jim and he told me to use the Pacbrake Exhaust Brake lube and no problems since.

 

[ed9824v]

Call Jelag and have him send you a bottle of lube. Probably about $10 or so and lube the acutaator shaft, pivot point, and valve shaft.



I called Pacbrake and was told that I needed a new unit. Called Jim and he told me to use the Pacbrake Exhaust Brake lube and no problems since.

Mine did a similliar thing and it was a sticky vacumm valve the PB shaft was as free as it can be. Ed

 

[CHROME~TURBO]

call jelag and have him send you a bottle of lube. Probably about $10 or so and lube the acutaator shaft, pivot point, and valve shaft.



I called pacbrake and was told that i needed a new unit. Called jim and he told me to use the pacbrake exhaust brake lube and no problems since.

thabk you we give that a try.

 

[nutter3]

Cool. Mine does the same thing sometimes. It really sucks when you just want to slow down a little, but have to end up coming to a full stop to get the PB to turn off. I think it is the vacuum actuater, but it could also be something with my ATS commander, as that will only let the brake come on if the torque converter is locked and the throttle is off.
I am thinking of wiring the vacuum switch directly to a single switch without going through the ATS or the throttle sensor. I know when my TC is locked and only use the brake in those situations anyways. Does anyone see a problem with that?

 

[CHROME~TURBO]

Cool. Mine does the same thing sometimes. It really sucks when you just want to slow down a little, but have to end up coming to a full stop to get the PB to turn off. I think it is the vacuum actuater, but it could also be something with my ATS commander, as that will only let the brake come on if the torque converter is locked and the throttle is off.

I am thinking of wiring the vacuum switch directly to a single switch without going through the ATS or the throttle sensor. I know when my TC is locked and only use the brake in those situations anyways. Does anyone see a problem with that?

** Thank you. A lot of time all I have to do is push the clutch in for a bit until it goes to an idle and then it is fine. Stays stuck sometime weather I flip the switch off or not. Do you or anyone know if the cylinder can be taken apart cleaned and put back ?

Later. CHROME~TURBO

 

[KKohagen]

I had a similar problem. I added some extra grounding wires that went from the solenoid back to the battery on driver's side. Problem cleared up for a while then came back. I also had the wipers starting and stopping at the same time. Added another ground wire to where the relay was connected... . Sure enough the relay ground was connected to the wire for the ground coming from the WIPERS!!!! I would use the lube from Pac-Brake and add some extra ground wires just to ensure that the electrons can flow any direction they want, as long as it is through the solenoid when you want it to!
Good luck.