Intermittant Engine stutter at cruise speeds

[Turbo Kidd]

cwbyinjeep,



Did you ever find out what is wrong with your truck? My truck is still acting up and it is driving me nuts! I am still having the same issue as you described. I changed my FCA and that did not help. I am at a total loss... ... ... ... ... ... Anyone?



Thanks!

Karl

 

[cerberusiam]

cwbyinjeep,



Did you ever find out what is wrong with your truck? My truck is still acting up and it is driving me nuts! I am still having the same issue as you described. I changed my FCA and that did not help. I am at a total loss... ... ... ... ... ... Anyone?



Thanks!

Karl

Get a rail pressure gauge and see what that tells you. If not, then it may be injector work time.

 

[R-Carter]

yea it was the tone wheel that is just behind the harmonic balancer that the crank position sensor reads,pin was sheared replaced the ring,harmonic bal. and the sensor... no more trouble

 

[Turbo Kidd]

Could it be the APPS? I still have no codes.

 

[P Madrid]

I'm also helping out a fellow Tech in T/S a '04. 5 truck with the same issue, a hard fast stumble, as if some one had turn the key off and on really fast. The owner states this has been going on for 7 months and no one has been able to figure it out. No fault codes have ever been logged.



The FCA, Pressure Relief Valve, Rail Pressure sensor and APPS have all been swap out with new ones with absolutely no change. The surge will start after the engine has warmed up and it can be at any speed, even while backing out of the shop.



Several test drives were done while monitoring rail pressure, crank, cam and boost sensors with a Matco scanner. Throttle percent was not available. When the stumble would happen there was a fuel pressure drop of 30 bar (435 psi) and 100-125 rpm's from both sensors, boost press was not affected. Once in a while there would be multiple surges, none lasting longer than a second, all with the same press and rpm drop.



Not trying to highjack the thread, only bringing more information to what might bee the same issue. Any more ideas?





Pablo

 

[hitchjnj]

No help from me as my truck has started doing the same thing. No codes and everything I've checked so far appears to be all right. Had the lift pump changed 2000 miles ago and it was running fine. My truck is a stock 03 3500 DW with 6 speed and 167000 miles.



John

 

[Turbo Kidd]

No help from me as my truck has started doing the same thing. No codes and everything I've checked so far appears to be all right. Had the lift pump changed 2000 miles ago and it was running fine. My truck is a stock 03 3500 DW with 6 speed and 167000 miles.



John

My truck is still doing it too. I have tried the new FCA, checked electrical connenctions and etc. , but it is still not fixed. I'm just going to run it until it breaks and fix whatever comes up..... I just can't beat myself up over it anymore. If you guys find a cure, please share it hear, because I am all ears



Good Luck,

Karl (TURBO KIDD)

 

[Hescomp]

I have been having this and similar trouble for a FEW YEARS now. No one has been able to diagnose the issue.

It has progressivly gotten worse. Some trips i can go 3 hours with no hickups and others I can go 50 miles. At times it has shut off momentarilly and others it is just like a head wind.

Fuel Pressure perfect.

After replacing about 2k worth of stuff and service calls on the truck i am leaning towards the ECM.

Dunno how to check it though.

I am now down to:

Fuel Gage is either full or empty, no in between. Same results with 2 different units.

Cruise has always acted up, set it at 70 and seconds later I am at 85 and climbing.

Fuel pump is being fed 8 to 10vdc. I put a realy in the curcuit to feed full 12vdc.

Brand new alternator, 200 amp. Start on a cool day, inside gauge shows 8 volts and getting back up to 14 volts takes 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Havn't checked yet but ECM is supposed to supply 12vdc to tell the alt to put out.

The truck runs very strong most of the time but when it wants to act up it doesn't hold back.



Thus far changed MAP sensor, Crank Sensor, Fuel Pump 2x for this problem, sensor in trans for lockup, had valves adjusted while Cummins had it and found nothing, the Cummins dealer removed my Edge Chip and said that might help... Not, Sensor in the rear end, Alternator (After dissasembly was going bad but still put out full load), 2 new batteries (Thought they were not holding a charge), Battery cables, relocation kit for pump to the side rail, I have a new FASS DDRP pump ready to go, a couple different fuel pressure gauges ISS Pro now (Dont Buy GlowShift for fuel pressure they only work for a month or 2), Dealers and shops had it numerous times, the only fault code ever held in computer was low voltage. And no CE light ever. Prolly more that I can't think of right now too.



Any Clue how to check the computer? 650 + core at dealer and 100-200$ to install and program it. I have put so much into this truck there isn't much more to change but 600$ is still a lot of $$.

 

[JBonpua]

I was having the same problem on my truck. Take a look at your fuel rail pressure sensor and 3 wire plug. problem ended up being the plug was corroded thats why it was an intermitting problem.

X2. I've had problem with erratic rail pressure and truck surging, loss of power and MPG. I got an FCA and rail pressure sensor just in case it totally quits and kept it in the truck just in case.

Well today early morning on my way to May Madness while driving @ 60 MPH the CEL came on and I noticed the rail pressure was pegged at 24K and the engine was pinging and ratling (sounded like too much timing advance) and sounded like a Powerstroke. I knew something was really wrong. Pulled off the highway into an empty parking lot. Even while trying to park the rail pressure was still stuck @ 24K. Shut it down and was trying to decide what to change first (FCA or rail sensor). I flipped a coin and changed the FCA. Ever tried to change an FCA on a hot engine? It was not fun. #@$%! On top of that I had to remove the two CAT filter above the CP3. Dumped #2 all over the parking lot (good thing it was early morning and empty).

After removal and installation of the FCA I started the truck and immediately and rail pressure jumped back up to 24K along with the timing rattle and pinging. Obviously the FCA was not broken. Next was rail sensor. It took 2 minutes to change as I had easy access to the sensor. Started the truck and she purr like a kitten and no more rattling and pinging and the rail pressure is back to normal. :-laf Made it to the hotel in Las Vegas. Thank you Lord. :

 

[Hescomp]

Does anyone know how to check if the computer is in need of replacement?

 

[CJLUJAN]

Having the same problem at around 2000 rpms and doing 60 mpr. Excuse my ingnorance, but what is the FCA? And how do oyu check it?



Thanks.

 

[JBonpua]

Fuel Control Actuator (FCA). It controls fuel to the rail. It is the cylindrical thing attached to the back of the CP3 held by three Torx bolts. Ask I must have removed/replaced the FCA a hundred times.

 

[cerberusiam]

Having the same problem at around 2000 rpms and doing 60 mpr. Excuse my ingnorance, but what is the FCA? And how do oyu check it?



Thanks.

Fuel Control Actuator, look on the back of the CP-3 for the only component that has a wiring harness attached to it.



The FCA is responsible for metering fuel into the high pressure side of the CP-3 to create desired rail pressure. It is an electro-mechanical device that can suffer the same probelms as injectors when it comes to lack of lube in the fuel and excess solids that cause wear. It works in very small increments with close tolerances so any rough spots, sticking, etc, can cause all manner of issues with fuel delivery.



There is no reliable way to check them for correct operation. Shaking and listening for a rattle just means you shook it and it rattled, will not guarantee it will work correctly. Replacement is the only way to verify it is not the problem.

 

[JJPage]

Could it be the APPS? I still have no codes.

Could be... . you can get a replacement from Timbo for $160. 00, you have an 03, so I am assuming you have an engine mounted APPS. It could also be leaking injectors or cross tubes, I would try re-torquing cross tubes first. If that does not correct the issue, do an injector return flow test, should be under 100ml.