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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission moog ball joint zerk hitting axle shaft by u-joint???

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) High egt's

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I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4. I am putting in new ball joints and switching to the t-steering. I got the knuckle with new ball joints, hub and rotor assembled. While starting to put together the t-steering, I noticed the zerk was hitting the axle shaft. Any one had this problem? Any suggestions on making the 90 degree zerk work? Any ideas are appreciated.
 
You should have received both a zerk and a plug for the hole. It is a pain, but you must use the plug when driving and only install the zerk long enough to grease the balljoint. There is no avoiding it.
 
Uhhh, I used a shorty straight one for mine so it would clear, and then just turn the axle housing until I can get a grease hose on it... ... .
 
Don't plug it, file it.



I had the same issue when I put the DLUX kit with the Dana 70 outters in mine. I used a file and flattened out the rounded end of the 90 degree fitting. Based on your pics it is just like mine and a file will fix it... . takes about 20 seconds on each side to get enough material off the zerk to clear the yoke.
 
I think you may regret not having more clearance there. That shaft and joint can flex and wobble. Bear in mind it is only the size of a Dana 44 shaft on a stock Dodge Dana 60. It wouldn't take much wobble, or even a chunk of dried mud, to bust that zerk off, and getting an easy-out on it then will be tough.
 
I ended up grinding the 90 degree zerk. Main reason I did so is because when I tried to switch it to a straight zerk one of the ball joints was stripped at the fitting. I put some red loctite on it and stuck it back in. I did quite a bit of grinding so it gave me decent clearance. I didn't think there would be that much play there. I'll keep an eye on it and hopefully it works out.
 
Too many 'reasonable' engineers nowadays

A Reasonable Man avoids stress, conflict, unhappiness and dissatisfaction by accepting things the way they are.



Therefore, all Progress depends upon the Unreasonable Man.



An Unreasonable engineer could easily solve that problem by providing a shallow recess for a 45* zerk in the bottom of the ball-joint.
 
What year trucks can use that ball joint with the side entry? I wish they would make the upper like this carli lower ball joint.

Dodge Ram Lower Ball Joints - Dodge Ram Suspension Extreme Duty System Components



Why not use Carli for BOTH upper and lower...



Here is the Carli upper to go along with the Carli lower that you posted.

I understand that they have a deal price if you buy BOTH upper and lower from them.



Extreme Duty Dodge Ram Upper Ball Joints - Dodge Ram Suspension System Components
 
A Reasonable Man avoids stress, conflict, unhappiness and dissatisfaction by accepting things the way they are.



Therefore, all Progress depends upon the Unreasonable Man.



An Unreasonable engineer could easily solve that problem by providing a shallow recess for a 45* zerk in the bottom of the ball-joint.



An engineer probably did solve it but it was reviewed by someone with a degree in accounting who determind that extra step would bankrupt the company and who cares if the customer never geases the joint it will not fail till after warranty...
 
Ditto the above - I could not find side-zerk for my 1998. Here's my install: I put shallow profile straight fittings and use a right-angle gun adapter. Can sometimes be a pain to get the nozzle sealed to the fitting—I just lift that wheel and rotate the shaft to help wedge the nozzle onto the zerk. On the plus side this is my second set of ball joints done this way - have no clearance issues while running whatsoever.
 
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