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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear ended - ouch!

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Alignment

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) How many miles on injectors?

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I would like your opinion - I got rear ended, pushed the bumper up into the rear driver side panel and it appears there was a pretty good impact directly on the hitch. Truck drives normal and frame looks straight.



1) - From your experience - should I pay to get the frame checked or is that a was of money?

2) - Insurance is paying for a new trailer hitch - should I get a class V. I pull a 34' trailer close to vehicle capacity.

3) - Should I purchase new bumper from dodge or other suggestions?



Thank you for all the help you have provided me over the years. It's appreciated.



Jim
 
Yes. Yes. and No. imo.



That rear frame is the weakest part of the frame. If you bent the hitch, it likely bent what it was mounted to, as well. I really don't see how it could not, unless the hitch was real weak.



If the trailer is maximum capacity, you need a maximum capacity hitch.



There are so many really stout and better looking bumpers out there that I wouldn't even consider a flimsy stock replacement. That driver was just a reminder of who you are sharing the road with in increasing numbers these days. There are also Dodge trucks like our's with cheap, rusting out brake lines. Cover your 6.



(You didn't get hit by a guy named "Kenny" did you? ;) :D )



[I am so ashamed of that low blow and my weakness in failing to resist it... :eek: , but how often can you get away with twisting a cop's tail? :eek: Especially when he's a Master tail twister himself? :-laf ]
 
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It should be fairly easy to check the frame for bending. With it up on a lift you should be able to stretch a tape measure from a point at or under the cab, perhaps a rivet on each side or some crossmember attachment point, to the frame end on each side.

If the corner that was hit suffered damage to the frame end it should show by measuring length or distance from a common point on each frame rail.
 
When I got rear-ended a few years ago I replaced the stocker with a Buckstop (Toyotastop?). I've been very happy with it. -Vic
 
my factory i replaced with a ranch hand. no reciever. pull weight whent up but with the square adapter bolted on that drops the tounge wight. but i am going to weld it to the bumper.



Mine was am impall killer!! lol lol

I got it free with a few buck to spare!!!
 
I would like your opinion - I got rear ended, pushed the bumper up into the rear driver side panel and it appears there was a pretty good impact directly on the hitch. Truck drives normal and frame looks straight.



1) - From your experience - should I pay to get the frame checked or is that a was of money?

2) - Insurance is paying for a new trailer hitch - should I get a class V. I pull a 34' trailer close to vehicle capacity.

3) - Should I purchase new bumper from dodge or other suggestions?



Thank you for all the help you have provided me over the years. It's appreciated.



Jim



The 2nd gen trucks have a welded hitch that basically breaks at the welds (at the receiver) if hit just right. Your frame is probably ok as the hitch hopefully broke at the welds.



My experience with the stock Dodge bumpers (2nd gen and 3rd gen) is that they are extremely flimsy. I don't have any recommendations for aftermarket, but start looking at other trucks and you should be able to find something better.
 
(You didn't get hit by a guy named "Kenny" did you? ;) :D )



[I am so ashamed of that low blow and my weakness in failing to resist it... :eek: , but how often can you get away with twisting a cop's tail? :eek: Especially when he's a Master tail twister himself? :-laf ]



I don't care who you are ... that's funny
 
No I did not rear end another CTD. For the record it was a Chevy and while it had a hitch on it as well my cheap front bumper engulfed it so easily My truck was able to "continue" on to his pick up bed crumpling it like a stretchie straw :-laf.



I was amazed at how light the factory front bumper was on my truck when I cut it off with the torch. . I had myself all braced to catch the "heavy load" as I was cutting the last bolt off and... nothing holding it with one hand is easy:mad:





I myself am either going to go with one of the aftermarkets or will do a sport conversion but will reinforce it beneath the plastic... Wahetever I do it will not be standard strength when I get done
 
After being rear ended in mine, thankfully by a Honda Accord, broke my hitch and put enough of a dent in the bumper, I got enough from insurance to have a Ruenel put on with the welded in reciever. That thing is built like a tank. Take a road trip down I5 to Colusa and they will install it for free.
 
Pay a professional Frame shop. There is probably nothing wrong, but I would rather want to know for sure. Especially if you plan to sink, I mean "INVEST", money into this truck in the future. They will be able to measure cross, parallel, and the how horizontal the frame rails are to each other. They can also put your truck on four individual scales. A frame that is bent upwards may measure still good for cross and parallel. For example: If the right rear is bent upwards, the left rear and right front will have excessive weight. I used to bend the frame, in this way, on circle track cars to aid turning, but created excessive heat on the thoughs two tires. Hope this helps. Good luck
 
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