Changing transmission fluid 07 ram 48RE

[TTimmons]

Ok, attempted to do a full change of transmission fluid to my 2007 ram 2500 with 48RE transmission. Didn't get it done. Cannot locate the point where i'm supposed to disconnect the return to transmission line and hook up the hose. Did get the power steering fluid changed though, by accident!! Can anyone tell me the exact location of where i'm supposed to connect my hose to so i can get this changed? My service manual does not show it at all.



Thanks!

 

[cerberusiam]

Pull the rear cooler line on the transmission and slip a hose over the end of it to route the fluid into a pail. Driver's side of the trans just about under the seat. You will see a front and rear line, the rear is the cooler return.

 

[TTimmons]

Thanks for the great info cerberusiam, and sorry for the lateness of my reply. THAT worked like a charm. Disconnected real easy, attached my hose, turned the truck on, put it in neutral, and out came the fluid. I got maybe 8-10 quarts out of it. Really an easy procedure.



Thanks for the info cerberusiam. Kudos to you again...

 

[TGVET]

I have a Mag-HyTek pan with a drain. After all the fluid is out of the pan, I run in neutral for less than one minute, out comes a bunch more fluid. Upon refil, I put back almost ten quarts. Amsoil ATF.

I'm wondering if anyone else does this (must have drain plug not found on stock pan).

I'm assuming that in the previous How To post, one is idling the engine the whole time while draining via the disconnected return line method. Yes ?

 

[MQuirin]

I have a Mag-HyTek pan with a drain. After all the fluid is out of the pan, I run in neutral for less than one minute, out comes a bunch more fluid. Upon refil, I put back almost ten quarts. Amsoil ATF.

I'm wondering if anyone else does this (must have drain plug not found on stock pan).

I'm assuming that in the previous How To post, one is idling the engine the whole time while draining via the disconnected return line method. Yes ?

That's how I do mine. I wondered how it compares to removing the return line.

Also, I get nervous running the truck with no ATF,even for a short time...

 

[TGVET]

There are expert's here that I am sure have valid opinions on this. So, I put this out to them. Please reply if reading. .

Another thing I do is the same with engine oil change. But again, I only run the engine for a few seconds to circ more fluid from the lines. ALL of my lubes are Amsoil as well. . since 1975.

 

[rscurtis]

Another thing you can do if you have the time and a clean environment, is to loosen the ten valve body mounting bolts and let the truck sit overnight. You will be able to drain 12+ quarts that way. Retorque the bolts to 100 inch pounds.

 

[BIGNASTY]

fluid change

Pull the rear cooler line on the transmission and slip a hose over the end of it to route the fluid into a pail. Driver's side of the trans just about under the seat. You will see a front and rear line, the rear is the cooler return.

I did the change as cerberusiam has said went off with out a hitch cerberusiam if I forgot to say thanks THANKS FOR THE INFO

 

[cerberusiam]

I have a Mag-HyTek pan with a drain. After all the fluid is out of the pan, I run in neutral for less than one minute, out comes a bunch more fluid. Upon refil, I put back almost ten quarts. Amsoil ATF.

That works if you not looking to do a fluid exchange. You basically dumped what could come out of the TC and lube system back to the pan before the pump lost prime.



Using the return line flushes the TC, cooler and lines completely as you do it at least twice so the new fluid is circulated thru the TC and the coolers. I usually do it 3 times and use 18 quarts on an exchange. I can see the new fluid coming out of the return line when I quit.



Don't worry about running the trans without the rear cooler line attached. The trans is in neutral when you do this so very little in the trans is turning, its under no load, and the residual film of ATF will keep things from causing any galling or metal on metal issues. The trans goes thru the same thing every time you start the truck becuase lube pressure does not build immediately.

 

[TGVET]

Cerb,
Nice thing about the drain is easy to dump before I remove pan and change filter. If I get you correctly, you're adding two to four quarts or more fluid as you drain to produce the flushing effect, yes ? Once you do that, you then drop the pan and change filter ??

I've now got 185K on my 05, regular maintenance and very little towing any big loads. Changed the fluids @ 183K and I noticed a fair amount of fine metallic particulate on the magnet of my pan drain plug as well as, a few paper thin flake like pieces dark brown in color stuck to the bottom of the aluminum pan. I've not seen anything like that before (flake material) and am now wondering what it could be from.

 

[cerberusiam]

Cerb,

Nice thing about the drain is easy to dump before I remove pan and change filter. If I get you correctly, you're adding two to four quarts or more fluid as you drain to produce the flushing effect, yes ? Once you do that, you then drop the pan and change filter ??



I've now got 185K on my 05, regular maintenance and very little towing any big loads. Changed the fluids @ 183K and I noticed a fair amount of fine metallic particulate on the magnet of my pan drain plug as well as, a few paper thin flake like pieces dark brown in color stuck to the bottom of the aluminum pan. I've not seen anything like that before (flake material) and am now wondering what it could be from.

No, I have a drain plug in my pan so I drain what will come out first, drop the pan and change the filter which drains a little more.



Then I add 6 quarts, start the truck with the rear cooler line disconnected and let about 4 quarts flush out or until flow slows then shut truck off.



Add 4 quarts and start engine to let about 4 quarts or until flow slows then shut truck off.



Add 4 quarts and start engine to let about 4 quarts or until flow slows then shut truck off.



Add 3 quarts start truck and check level, usually have to use part/most of the 18th quart to get the fill level about 1 to 1. 5 quarts above the full line.



The OE steels almost always flake a lot off in normal use and you see metal on the magnet and the black coating in places when you drop the pan. Its just the way they are made to wear. The flakes sound like friction material off a clutch but unless you have a heavy thick sludge in the pan I would not worry too much. It could just be part of gasket that was left in the trans that finally washed down. If your fluid is not looking brown and things are working good it sounds normal.

 

[TGVET]

Thanks for replying Cerb, appreciate the input. Never had any brown or foul fluid as I keep it changed regularly. Sounds like normal wear so far and hopefully will get many more miles before rebuild or replace.