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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Overflow Valve Differences?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) crankshaft

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Clock Spring ???

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Was doing regular maintinance on my 96 CTD , oil / filter / air / fuel filter and I was alerted that there was a TSB on the replacement of the overflow valve. So I went and dropped the $92 at Cummins . Well I got the old one out and decided to compare them. I noticed the replacement valve's hole on the bottom is a LOT smaller than the one I took out. Did i get the wrong one and is this going to affect anything in a negative manner?





New O. Valve is on the left in picture.



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The new one with the smaller hole will build up more pressure and not return as much volume back to the fuel pump. The guys over at TST told me to remove mine, disassemble it and stretch the spring out to 1/2 inch in length. I did that and it works fine now. If you have too low of fuel pressure, then the truck is not going to hit the top speed very easily as the fuel will start to overflow and return without going into the engine.
 
Saw where you found it on PS.com Zach.



For everybody else.



For 12V Overflow Valves call Marty @

Precision Diesel Injection and Turbo Inc.

888-734-7349

$35 + $7 shipping and handling



Not affiliated, just a happy customer.
 
I stretched the spring in mine about 150K miles ago. You have to be careful to not stretch it too much. Just a little so it is 1/2" long or a tiny bit longer. If it is stretched too much it will be ruined. Since I stretched mine I have about 25 PSI at idle and many times pressure on the road will get up to 40 PSI. The only time I have seen lower pressures is when a problem developed in the fuel system. A leaking hose once and a leaking fuel heater another time.
 
Precision diesel rocks... . Just replaced my original OV with one shipped from them, went in very easy, no filing of the manifold needed. . much better than 92 that i was quoted for at cummins. .



-j
 
I gave up playing games with them, cut the steel line, and put a valve after it.



I can turn on the FASS pump,(I eliminated the stock fuel delivery system) and listen to it bypass, then tighten the valve up, by ear, when I'm pulling.

I have the FASS holding 45 PSI, with the bypass valve open, or stock, and 60 PSI with it closed. I like to leave it just cracked.
 
Sled Puller said:
I gave up playing games with them, cut the steel line, and put a valve after it.



I can turn on the FASS pump,(I eliminated the stock fuel delivery system) and listen to it bypass, then tighten the valve up, by ear, when I'm pulling.

I have the FASS holding 45 PSI, with the bypass valve open, or stock, and 60 PSI with it closed. I like to leave it just cracked.



Gene would you be willing to show me this setup @ IRP... ... very interesting. :confused:
 
$92 Omg!

Put that thing in a glass case on a shelf if it's worth $92.



After working out the other fuel problems I had, I ended up having to stretch the spring on the valve I got from them two weeks ago. The new valve was bypassing to the tune of 19 psi at idle and worse with load (same as original valve). All is good now.



Truck holds 44 psi every morning at 1000rpm and goes down from there. Highway speeds usually show 35psi. Lowest I see is 22psi at WOT at a low rpm (1200 usually).
 
How do you get to the spring inside the valve? Do you have to remove the entire banjo bolt or do you just take out the small cap on the end?
 
Sled Puller said:
I gave up playing games with them, cut the steel line, and put a valve after it.



I can turn on the FASS pump,(I eliminated the stock fuel delivery system) and listen to it bypass, then tighten the valve up, by ear, when I'm pulling.

I have the FASS holding 45 PSI, with the bypass valve open, or stock, and 60 PSI with it closed. I like to leave it just cracked.

Sled Puller: I've been looking at the FASS system to replace lift pump, heater and filter and the banjo bolt fitting. How is yours doing and how much trouble to install? I'm also real interested in this replacement overflow valve you've put together. Can you explain a little more please?
 
Hi Surfbeetle



The management of TDR won't allow advertising of a new product on a forum. I "bet" you could find the adjustable overflow valve on Ebay.



Rob
 
I have just replaced my O/V and fuel inlet banjo with "TORK TEK" pieces. First I did the fuel inlet banjo,which has a snubber "built In" hooked fuel pressure ga. up, and it is steady as a rock,compared to any other I have used. Secondly came the new O/V--what a difference it makes. Fully adjustable,lift pump pressure was 21#`s@ idle, motor seemed like it smoothed out a little,and I bumped it up to 34#`s @ 2300 rpm`s. Motor starts instaneously!!Check these two pieces out. !!
 
I have just replaced my O/V and fuel inlet banjo with "TORK TEK" pieces. First I did the fuel inlet banjo,which has a snubber "built In" hooked fuel pressure ga. up, and it is steady as a rock,compared to any other I have used. Secondly came the new O/V--what a difference it makes. Fully adjustable,lift pump pressure was 21#`s@ idle, motor seemed like it smoothed out a little,and I bumped it up to 34#`s @ 2300 rpm`s. Motor starts instaneously!!Check these two pieces out. !!



I was wondering if the Tork Tek O/V was still working well for you? Just saw them and was wondering if anyone had used one.
 
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