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6 Spd change over to Automatic

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RGH43

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Is it feasible to remove the 6spd and put in an automatic. What would the cost be versus selling the truck and finding an Automatic.



Truck is an '03 with "24K" mi (another story) and it is a 2wdr which makes backing a 5th wheel very difficult as you cannot slow it down w/o riding the clutch. I recently replace the OEM clutch because of that. So rather than sell the truck I thought about cahnging the 6spd to an automatic. Any ideas or help would be appreicated. I live outside of Seattle Wa so any shops in the state or close that could give me any ideas? Any resale value to a 6spd that was used very little.
 
You can do a search as it has been done. As I recall, they range from $8K or so but a NV5600 with that few miles would be desirable to someone that needs one. Sorry I can't be of more help.
 
I was giving this some thought and wondered if a 47RH (H for hydraulic) would work since one wouldn't need any computers to run the thing.



Or, how about a nice built Turbo400, adapter plate and a US Gear Overdrive unit behind it, since it's only a 3 speed transmission?



There has to be something out there.
 
I would love to do just the opposite, go from the auto to a 6spd.



I know on pirate4x4. there was a vendor selling brackets to install an allison trans.



There was a thread on here along time ago too, I think buy the guy from kelderman air ride that went from a 6spd to an auto. I want to say he used an aftermarket controller for the trans.
 
You will need a different instrument cluster also. Why re-invent the wheel? Much simpler to get another truck, and you won't end up with an altered vehicle.
 
I think ATS has a specific set-up for this scenario, 6spd to auto. If memory serves, I thought it worked quite well... . just a thought.
 
6spd to Auto

I really appreciate all the feedback, any other ideas or thoughts would also be appreciated. Gives me a great deal to think about before deciding.
 
One other ? The reason for this ? When I back up the truck does not slow when applying the brake, computer or whatever gives it more gas to keep it from dying so you cant really slow it down. Is there anyway to by pass this feature by rewiring it thru a tpoggle swith to shut it off when you go into reverse?
 
Your true problem is your differential gearing is too tall. The tall gears, probably 3. 73, won't allow you to engage the clutch when backing but maintain a comfortably slow speed for trailer backing control. You are forced to slip the clutch or back too fast if you engage it.

Changing the differential gearing from 3. 73 to 4. 10 would help considerably with your difficulty in backing your trailer and cost only a fraction of the cost of changing over to an automatic transmission.

4. 10 gears are much more suitable in all gears, 1st through 6th as well as reverse for towing a heavy trailer.

I had a similar problem with my first Dodge Ram, an '01 six speed with 3. 54 gears. I deliberately ordered it with 3. 54 gears because I pulled an 8,000 lb. Airstream. It was great with the tall gears because the trailer was light. Later I grew tired of the confined interior space and bought a used Travel Supreme fifth wheel that weighed 14,500 lbs. I had the same complaint you do with the gearing.
 
Ditto HBarlow. I tow a 12K 5er with an 04. 5 w/ 4:10 differential. No real problems backing up & no (known) excessive clutch wear. With the 4:10 axle ratio, there's ample torque at idle to just ease back even up hill. Sure, I have to engage & disengage a bit when shoehorning into a tight spot, but it does not seem to be a problem. Forum discussion about overheating automatics when backing in are scarrier (to me).



I was trying to buy a 3:73 axle, but the 4:10 was exactly what I wanted otherwise. Wish I could turn a few less revs on the highway, but that's better than damaging the clutch.



FWIW



Jim D.
 
Another thing to keep in mind besides what others have suggested is that with the switch to the auto, which I assume would be a 48RE, is the reverse gear ratio- it is 2. 20:1, which is much less advantage than you already have. You could discover that the cure is worse than the disease. Of course a third option would be to trade your truck for a 4X4 and install free-spin hubs, then you have an excellent backing ratio regardless of which transmission you have.
 
I would think one very odd but more feasible option might be to install a transfer case, you could find all salvaged parts that would bolt in, shouldnt affect the ECM in any way and you should really only need a transfer case, tail housing, drive line, possibly crossmember, shouldnt be too bad, all factory dodge parts, then just dont hook anything to the front of it and you would have a great gear reduction for tight maneuvers. I have a G56 with 37's and use 4lo alot when maneuvering trailers.
 
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