Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1998 Fuel Lift Pump Replacement Question

[HerbW]

I'm replacing my fuel lift pump on my 1998 Dodge 12 valve engine. The original ticks when the engine is idling. Reading the dodge service manual on it sounds involved. The rubber cover rotted and fell off the plastic plunger. I just ordered from Geno's Garage a lower screen fuel filter kit for the lower unit. I figure while it's all out of the truck, might as well do all of it as the manual says you remove it also.



What is the best way to get to it from above or below?



Any ideas and suggestions are appreicated. Does anybody know torque specs? Thanks, Herb

 

[smokercummins74]

You can do it either way. With my 94 it was easier to get from the bottom unless you're a contortionist. Just make sure when you reassemble the prefilter that the o rings are completely in their grooves. Recently found out that if they aren't you have a bear of an air leak. Good luck, Daniel.

 

[GAmes]

I do part from above, and part from below. Loosen the fittings from the top. If it is the original pump they will be TIGHT! Remove the starter to have more room, then remove the bolts from the bottom. I recommend you get a pair of 55mm long studs for the install. Then you can hang a gasket, the preheater bracket, the second gasket and the pump. Tighten each nut a little at a time to keep the assy square to the engine. I double nut mine and use loctite for extra insurance. In addition to the prefilter screen get a new L shaped hose that goes into the pump from the preheater. For a change, the dealer will have a lower price than Cummins. My last one was about $7.

 

[HerbW]

GAmes,

Are you using pre made studs or just cutting allthread? Sounds like a good idea using studs.

Guys,

Did you first set the engine to top dead center first? I have a barring tool to turn the engine over. I thought about loosing the bolts and turn the engine over till the tension is relieved.

Thanks again, Herb

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Ya, whats the thread & 55mm is about how long in inches?



Geno's has a good price on lift pumps. Gaskets included.



REPLACEMENT FUEL TRANSFER PUMP ('94-'98)-Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories - Geno's Garage

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Herb, spend a little extra and get a Tork Teknology OFV. It will give you 25 PSI @ idle & 30-32 PSI @ 2000 rpm.



TORK TEK CUMMINS ADJUSTABLE OVERFLOW VALVE OFV020 - Tork Teknology



See the write-up:



Tork Teknology Article Number One- The Cummins Lift Pump

 

[HerbW]

TORK TEK valve huh? I just read the install on it and sounds like another good addition. Do you use it? Never heard of it till now. Thanks, Herb

 

[guldam]

I just changed out my lift pump. I went at from the top.



I removed the fuel filter for a clearer view of the procedings. Ended up removing the line from the fuel filter to the pump and dropping the whole thing. Otherwise I could not get enough leverage to remove that top line from the pump itself. On the bench it was tight as hell.



I scratched and bruised up my arms laying on top of the engine removing all the bits and pieces. And I do wish I'd used studs. Next time. It was a total pain in the neck, back and arms to get those bolts started again, and that was even after getting the "flat spot" on the cam.



I have a lot of respect for the mechanics who fix this sort of stuff day in and day out.



Oh... and I still have a fuel leak somewhere!!!!! &*$%(&@!:{



GulDam

 

[GAmes]

GAmes,

Are you using pre made studs or just cutting allthread? Sounds like a good idea using studs.

Guys,

Did you first set the engine to top dead center first? I have a barring tool to turn the engine over. I thought about loosing the bolts and turn the engine over till the tension is relieved.

Thanks again, Herb

I used hardened pre made studs from a good hardware store, no Home Depot stuff for me. Sorry, I don't remember the thread size, I just carried a bolt to the store and matched it up.



Getting the pushrod off the cam lobe makes life a little easier. There will still be tension though. There is a procedure for making sure you are off the cam lobe in the FSM.

 

[HerbW]

I'm going for the studs! I was at Ace Hardware and they have boxes full of studs, now to match when it's out.

I have a fuel leak also. Looks like it may be the bushing in my P7100 pump where the linkage goes inside it that moves when you step on the fuel feed petal. Ever heard of this leaking? Not much, just a few drips on the shaft. Thanks much for the ideas! Herb

 

[The patriot]

I did mine from the bottom and used the original bolts.

 

[HerbW]

Patriot, Hopefully you're not in Iraq with your toes in the sand.

 

[The patriot]

No. Almost went though as a contractor.....



I'm in the Italian riviera. NJ. :-laf

 

[MLee]

Guide studs/lift pump 12 valve

OK, those that have replaced there lift pumps and used the studs as the new attachments, Who can remember the size of the studs, one size in length was 55mm, but no bolt size was mentioned other than matching at the store.

I just want to prepared if and when mine needs to be done. This one is more diffecult than doing the old V-8s,

And yes i've searched, this should be in the FAQs. :-laf