The drivetrain shop was able to get the joints out of the driveshaft. I questioned them as they worked on it, they told me that this was definitely one of the hardest units to disassemble of anything they see. They have destroyed a few just trying to disassemble them. They used a torch to get the housing red hot while using a large press, and it sounded similar to a shotgun at close range when it released and jumped off their press. My 12 ton H-press would not even budge it until heated and with propane took 1/2 hour of heating to get the first joint to move.
Once apart, I took the driveshafts home to clean the mountain of rust of the outside and treat the metal and paint with a good rust-resistant paint. After repairing the damage that was done to the yokes during removal (marred metal in the cup seat), I installed replacement U-joints. I used serviceable joints, but this driveshaft design requires the grease fitting be located in the end of the cup not the center of the hub as some manufacturers use. Dodge does not offer a serviceable joint. They have a superseded part number (Dodge #68003521AB for my truck, but your dealer will need to check your VIN) for the replacement joint with a new design on the cup using a brass pressed sleeve and triple-seal. It should be a much improved design but at $130 each, I am sticking with aftermarket $20 joints that allow lubrication.
I completed the installation of the joints with clips and phased the shaft as originally installed (I stamp my shafts while in the truck before dis-assembly to assure phase is correct). The truck has no vibration at all at any speed.
Notes on installation -
1. AWAYS mark the shafts for proper phasing.
2. Most drivetrain shops cannot balance these 2-piece shafts unless you replace the center bearing.
3. Make sure you purchase U-joints with the grease fitting in the end of the cap if you get serviceable joints. There is no access to get a grease gun in between the yokes once mounted in the truck.
4. You will need to heat the yoke significantly during dis-assembly in most cases if the cup is retained with injected nylon.
5. When seating the cups, press the cups in simultaneously if possible as the relief where the injected nylon is extruded can cause the cup to mis-align and cause pressure on one side of the needles. This takes some care and may require extra time. You must also have the cross completely inside the yoke before installing the cups.
6. It is a good idea to mark the location of the center bearing mount before removal. You may have to try moving the location slightly to reduce or eliminate some vibration, even if you mark it, but it is a good starting point.
This job was much more difficult and time-consuming than on my '99 truck, that I have replaced the joints in multiple times.
Cut a hole in the end of the cap and thread the largest possible bolt in there. Then rig a puller to yank it.
This was tried unsuccessfully, the threads just stripped repeatedly as I tried larger bolts.
Or, weld a bar of some convenient shape to the end of the cap, hold the bar fixed between the jaws of a vice, and give a good hard whack to the yoke.
This would likely work if you have access to a welder, if the cup doesn't weld itself to the yoke in process.
But I'm certainly no mechanical engineer, so there must be some aspect to this I'm not understanding.
It should not require a background in any kind of engineering to change parts on a truck. My engineering background allows me to analyze the design knowing what has been done and works well in other vehicles. U-joints have been used for hundreds of years, and there are GOOD designs out there. THIS DESIGN is not one of the GOOD designs, it is a POOR design from the serviceability standpoint. If you don't believe me, talk to your local drivetrain shop or go look at some competitors products.
Jeff
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