Here I am

Alignment question

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

CIPA Northern California

Valve Stems how long-------

Status
Not open for further replies.
I hope someone can answer a question on the toe in measurement for the '03 3500. I've checked threads and have only found the specs in degrees,not inchs like I need. We installed the Mopar steering upgrade and thought we measured everything correctly,turns out we didn't. My steering wheel isn't straight and the trucks is pulling to the right. I realize I need to go to the alignment shop,problem is I need to do my upper/lower BJ's and don't have the cash right now,plus I want to install the Spyntech kit at the same time. I know if we have the correct measurements,I can continue to drive the truck till money is flowing again.

Thanks fellas,

Casey
 
You want about 1/16 to 1/8 toe in measured as high up behind the axel and the same location in front of the axel. The old factory book (for the 89 that I had) said to measure at the back side of the rim at the bead. Hope this helps[/I][/B
 
You want about 1/16 to 1/8 toe in measured as high up behind the axel and the same location in front of the axel. The old factory book (for the 89 that I had) said to measure at the back side of the rim at the bead. Hope this helps[/I][/B




just call a local shop, im sure they would give you the info... :)
 
Toe in or toe out is based on the compression of the parts under load at cruise speed going down the road... . The pressure on the front wheels either compresses the joints or expands them based on weather the linkage is in front of the axle or behind it...

The value is to allow the front wheels to be dead ahead at road speeds with the compression of the linkage...

I can't think of a vehicle that I've seen that's over 1/8", here's how I was taught 40 years ago... .

On a level surface, lift and rotate the tire, while it spins coat a section of thread with chalk and than scribe a line in the chalk. Once both wheels have been scribed and the wheels are back on the ground rotate the steering wheel lock to lock once or twice and than center the wheel and lock it in place...

Imagine a horizontal line through the center of the wheel and intersecting the scribe mark at the front and rear of the tire... Measure and adjust based on the specification you have...

Hope this helps. .
 
My steering wheel isn't straight and the trucks is pulling to the right.
Hi Casey,

Neither of those two conditions has to do with your toe setting. The steering wheel can be centered using the coupling that goes to the pitman arm and that won't change toe, all it does is make the arm shorter or longer and change the steering wheel position. Its there for the sole purpose of centering the steering wheel.

A pull to one side can be caused by the bad ball joints allowing for changes in camber and or caster or uneven tire pressure or the tire itself or a brake dragging to name a few but not total toe.
 
Hi Casey,

Neither of those two conditions has to do with your toe setting. The steering wheel can be centered using the coupling that goes to the pitman arm and that won't change toe, all it does is make the arm shorter or longer and change the steering wheel position. Its there for the sole purpose of centering the steering wheel.

A pull to one side can be caused by the bad ball joints allowing for changes in camber and or caster or uneven tire pressure or the tire itself or a brake dragging to name a few but not total toe.



The truck had a slight pull to the right before doing the work,come to think of... ..... its always pulled right just a tad. Fought tooth and nail with the alignment shop,kept telling me its our roads. Hard to tell since 99% of our roads have ruts due to studded tires and crappy asphalt mix. Its off enough now that it can get sketchy on ice.



Thanks for all the replies fellas,this forum rocks!
 
If the road is causing the drift or pull to the right, move to the other side and it should drift or pull to the left.



The allignment shop I use takes it for a test drive before they put it on the rack for allignment. When they finish, we go for another test drive and see if the allignment took care of the problem. I've never had to go back on the rack once they've finished.



My drift and pull to the right was caused by the camber being out 1 degree on the right side. The left side was fine. The dealer had already checked the allignment on their computer and said it was in spec. Now the truck drives great .
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top