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When to check or replace injectors?

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Almost 180k and starting to moan

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My quad cab just turned over 108,000 miles. I never had anyone check or test my injectors, truck starts up fine. Should I send the truck in to a local diesel shop and have them tested? Don't want to cause any bigger problems down the road. Thanks for any advice. Frank
 
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It seemed that quite a few '03/04s had injector issues last year. I replaced mine around 140k after a hard start issue last December. They are quite expensive to just be replacing. Talk to Todd at T&C Diesel, he helped me and has in depth knowledge with regard to 03s up.
 
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My quad cab just turned over 108,000 miles. I never had anyone check or test my injectors, truck starts up fine. Should I send the truck in to a local diesel shop and have them tested? Don't want to cause any bigger prolems down the road. Thanks for any advice. Frank

If everything is performing good, the only two things I would do at this point are, #1, add a w/f separator / 2 micron fuel filter system before the injection pump, and #2, re-torque the injector cross tubes to 37 ft lbs.

Most of the injector problems are caused either by water or debris, and at around 100k miles the cross tubes seem to need attention, other than that I wouldn't borrow trouble.....
 
FWIW, On my 2003 my first injector problem occured at 372k miles, the rest were replaced soon after. Others haven't been so lucky though. I met one guy that had over 500k miles on original injectors (2005 model). I didn't have any problems with my crossover tubes. I did use a fuel/water separator and filter between my auxillary tank and main tank.
 
I agree with Gary in his post above. I didn't put as many miles on a HPCR engine as he did but the injectors in my '06 were working fine and passed a Cummins/Dodge test that measured and compared the power contribution of each cylinder with well over 200k miles. The truck was running strong at 230k when I sold it.

Preventive maintenance is great but injectors are pretty pricey. If it ain't broke, why fix it?

Joe Donnelly has written that he believes Cummins injectors are well worn at 100k miles and I believe he is correct but Joe is a scientist and his performance standard is probably perfection which costs money.
 
FWIW, On my 2003 my first injector problem occured at 372k miles, the rest were replaced soon after. Others haven't been so lucky though. I met one guy that had over 500k miles on original injectors (2005 model). I didn't have any problems with my crossover tubes. I did use a fuel/water separator and filter between my auxillary tank and main tank.



Very good job on the miles!



The only reason I mention the cross tubes, is that they are under the same high pressure as the injectors(25k+ at times), if they start to leak, that high pressure fuel will "carve" through the tube tip and ruin it. It is a fairly easy and quick process to re-torque. Jess
 
Thanks guys for all your input. I've been looking at Glaicer Power's air horn and adding there F/W Separtor that mounts under the air horn. Also, I'll check the torque on the cross tubes ( thanks JJPage). Should get another 100,000 miles!(I wish!!!).
 
If the truck starts and run fine leave them ,Cross tubes do not need any readjustments,lose tubes will show some sign of engine problem,If they become lose the truck will not start correctly, and when it would start and run it would die in XX period of time. IMO.
 
TCDiesel, I just had #5 injector replaced because of a miss the engine had. I did order a 2 micron filter kit to install in the morning. What are the chances the rest are OK? Runs fine or should Ibe looking at more to replace. 137K miles.

Sorry dont mean to hijack the thread..... but it was the right timing for me.
 
I've been getting concerned with mine too. Most of the time the truck idles quiet, but other times there is a definite fuel knock. On acceleration I also have an occasionnal "rattle" that is abnormal compared to the usual. I have 180 km on it (approx 110miles). Thinking it might be time to pull them out and send them out tho be checked / repaired / replaced.
 
If the truck starts and run fine leave them ,Cross tubes do not need any readjustments,lose tubes will show some sign of engine problem,If they become lose the truck will not start correctly, and when it would start and run it would die in XX period of time. IMO.

TC, I tend to agree with the mantra "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". However, I am going to 'respectfully' disagree on the cross tubes, mainly because of my own personal experience with them. It is an easy, preventative maintenance task, and if you wait till their symptoms rear their ugly head, then the pitting and contamination has probably already taken place.

On a good note, they are not that expensive, can't remember for sure, but I believe I paid around $180. 00 for the set at Cummins Northwest.
 
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One thing I forgot to mention was the rail pressure sensor recently failed. I came out one morning (-25'c) to find my truck running on high idle just hammering away. I only work 10 minutes (all city) away so fortunately it didn't have to run it very long. My rail pressure gauge was pegged at 26000 psi all the way . I replaced the sensor and everything returned to normal, just worried about injector damage from that high pressure episode.
 
Can I get an FCA from Cummins, or do I have to go to the dealer? (never done one before). Thanks for the replies guys, hopefully it will save me a lot of money!!, one of the many reasons I love this site:)
 
Can I get an FCA from Cummins, or do I have to go to the dealer? (never done one before). Thanks for the replies guys, hopefully it will save me a lot of money!!, one of the many reasons I love this site:)





Do a search on here for the part number, but they run about $100 from Cummins. The dealer will only sell the FCA as part of the CP3... at least that was the story at my local dealer.
 
Only buy Genuine BOSCH FCA, I notice that Cummins is now selling a knock off, One problem with the knock off,is the pins (Bosch Harness) are made by tyco and the harness is made by BOSCH. The Pins are next to impossible to Buy. the knock off is more of a round pin, and the tyco is flat, this destroys the Male connector on the Truck Harness. " of course we have the correct 2 pin terminal, but We had to Buy 7000 pins to make it".
 
Industrial Injection has their Stage 1 "bag of parts", is that an FCA in the kit?

If it is, might as well add a little more oooomph while I'm in there:-laf
 
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