Here I am

Front Dif Pinion seal leak

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

FYI parasitic draw instrument cluster dead battery batteries

Cat filter base

Status
Not open for further replies.
And the nut has to be returned to the exact position on the pinion shaft from which it was removed, otherwise you won't have the proper bearing preload. Index the nut to the shaft before you start.
 
you will need to get a new nut form a dodge dealer or part's house, if you use the old one it will not say at it's touqe load and maybe it will come apart. the nut that hold's all toghter is a one time use nut, like sertain head bolt's that are used to hold motor head's to the block.

i just did mine at a local shop for the same thing that was on my truck, this fall!!
 
you will need to get a new nut form a dodge dealer or part's house, if you use the old one it will not say at it's touqe load and maybe it will come apart. the nut that hold's all toghter is a one time use nut, like sertain head bolt's that are used to hold motor head's to the block.



i just did mine at a local shop for the same thing that was on my truck, this fall!!



so if you need a new nut did you have to rtorque the nut with torque wrench or How did you get it back to specks (if nut has to go back exacly as it was before?)



thanks Kent
 
Here is the recommended procedure... ... ...





Install new pinion seal with Installer 8882 (2) and Handle C-4171 (1).

Apply a light coat of teflon thread sealant, to pinion flange splines.









Install flange on the pinion shaft with the reference marks aligned.

Lightly tap pinion flange onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.

Install flange washer and new pinion nut.

Hold flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play is taken up.









Rotate pinion flange (1) several times to seat bearings.

Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotate should be equal to recorded reading plus an additional 0. 40-0. 57 N·m (3-5 in. lbs. ).

If torque to rotating is low, tighten the pinion nut in 6. 8 N·m (5 ft. lbs. ) increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved.

Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion torque to rotate again.

Install axle shafts and hub bearings.

Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.
 
thank's for putting up the infomation i was looking up the right info for doing this and got it up before i was going to post. thank's BOB4x4
 
Here is the recommended procedure... ... ...





Install new pinion seal with Installer 8882 (2) and Handle C-4171 (1).

Apply a light coat of teflon thread sealant, to pinion flange splines.









Install flange on the pinion shaft with the reference marks aligned.

Lightly tap pinion flange onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.

Install flange washer and new pinion nut.

Hold flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play is taken up.









Rotate pinion flange (1) several times to seat bearings.

Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotate should be equal to recorded reading plus an additional 0. 40-0. 57 N·m (3-5 in. lbs. ).

If torque to rotating is low, tighten the pinion nut in 6. 8 N·m (5 ft. lbs. ) increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved.

Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion torque to rotate again.

Install axle shafts and hub bearings.

Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.



Thank you for the help.



Kent
 
Is it leaking or just wet? If it isn't leaking I would leave it alone until it actually drips. If you don't do it correctly you will be buying a ring and pinion to go with the new seal.
 
See TDR Issue 67, p. 80. I re-used the original pinion nut with blue Loctite.





I will only say that I have had a re-used pinion nut back off before, even with permanent red Loc-tite used... I have a Dodge dealer to thank for that. It destroyed the pinion bearings... within 75 miles of the differential being completely rebuilt.



Is it worth the $20 nut to take a chance a $1000 rebuild?
 
I will only say that I have had a re-used pinion nut back off before, even with permanent red Loc-tite used... I have a Dodge dealer to thank for that. It destroyed the pinion bearings... within 75 miles of the differential being completely rebuilt.



Is it worth the $20 nut to take a chance a $1000 rebuild?



If it's good enough for Joe, it's good enough for me. The nut is nothing more than a fancy jam nut. I would say your job failed in spite of the loctite, not because of it. I would lay odds the dealer did not have everything seated to start with.
 
If it's good enough for Joe, it's good enough for me. The nut is nothing more than a fancy jam nut. I would say your job failed in spite of the loctite, not because of it. I would lay odds the dealer did not have everything seated to start with.





Wow... it is a crimped nut... they are supposed to be used ONCE. Even the FSM states "use a new nut"... but what do they know.
 
You are, of course, correct. Besides having Joe Donnelly's endorsement, re-use of the original nut allow the DIYer to do this job himself without having to use special tools. By returning the nut to its original location on the pinion shaft and securing it with Loctite, success is virtually guaranteed.
 
my is leaking for the third or 4th time... . all dealer fixed. it only seems to leak after i slam in to mud or deep ruts in 4wd.

* i guess since its not quite puddling on the ground, i keep topping off the fluid.

any thoughts??
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top