Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Southern 12 valve headed North?'s

[SSage]

I've run my 95 in 14 degree temps towing and thats about it. A few short ventures north, but I didn't stay long. So, no really cold soaked starts. In the SE I usually only see the 20's when cold soaked. Below that I'm plugged in, well so far I've been able to stretch out a cord and find power. I do it for the quicker cab heat.



This week I was checking out a new work possibility in Iowa and it was 10 degrees during the warm part of the day. I did not see a single Dodge diesel around, a few new diesel Fords. No winter fronts, grills or bras. So, do the northern guys do anything to restrict air to the cooling system?



I add Howes or Power Service when its below 20/25, I've never had a failure to start. About 3 years ago I put on the Larry B fuel lines to the engine, the full starter kit, cut off solenoid and the big relay was changed. All new coolant and transmission lines/hoses. At 20 degrees it starts in 3 to 4 seconds since the new rubber fuel lines. My old ones started leaking badly.



Are the fuel lines to the tank prone to leaking? My stock thermostat is still in and acting normal. Since the truck cranks right up am I probably OK? I'm trying to cover everything well while in Alabama before venturing to the Mid West. So, I went through all my fluids and bake hoses etc. . I may get to places where I can't plug in and I've seen the videos on here showing below 0 starts. No worries? Run just like I do in the South?



I'm thinking the marine 370's may not be the best? They do smoke when its below freezing. I smell the diesel sometimes at stop lights and see a good haze. I can't afford the aftermarket injectors, so I need to stick to cummins parts. I like how the truck runs though, I finally got the suckers to seal up and run leak free. My engine is totally dry with no leaks.

 

[bheiting]

I use the Dodge OEM winter front. It fits and works fine. One version has battery warmers w/ wiring harness. I wouldn't worry about fuel additives as long as you get fuel at truck stops or high volume stations in the northern locations. You may want to bring some Power Service along in case you run into -20 degrees and it's running rough. I'd recommend syn. oil if you'll be staying in the north.

 

[budnate]

I slide in a piece of cardboard between the core support and rad and block half of the radiator surface, runs great and makes heat fine, it warms up outside pull it and toss it in the back.

 

[SSage]

I forgot about using card board, thanks.

I don't think they have winter fronts for Gen II's now though. I have one for a 3rd Gen my Dad bought it and never installed it. I may add the battery blankets, do they make a real difference?

I like the 5w40 oil, just don't like the $21 price per gallon. I've been running Delvac since its been on sale for $9 per gallon. I think its $10. 50 right now. I had a bunch of the blue bottle 5w40 Rotella I got for $11. 50 per in NC, wish I could have bought more. Just didn't have the room to store it on the road.

 

[SRath]

Cardboard can get soggy.

This Iowan uses a thin, weatherproof piece of teflon pallet slipsheet slid down between the radiator and intercooler. I also cut a flap in it so I can regulate how much air hits the radiator by how far open I leave the flap. Don't block the air to your intercooler with a winter front, just your radiator. Zero cost and absolutely effective. It rolls up very compactly for storage, too.

 

[Missouri Mule]

You mite want to change to a synthetic power steering fluid.

 

[mtarcher1]

Moving north to colder environ

From SW Montana... . it can get cold here and my '95 Cummins (165,000 miles) always starts. Yeah, I plug in the block heater when I can but that just makes it a bit easier on all the parts and allows it to warm up quicker. When it is below zero, I usually cycle the pre-heat cycle a second time before cranking. In the coldest weather, this truck starts on the 3rd or 4th turnover.



I always run a fuel conditioner especially since all we have now is ultra low sulfur diesel. I buy "winter #2" and rarely top off with #1 if it's going to get real cold (it bottomed out last week at -21). Fuel in northern areas is adjusted for the season so you have winter #2 or summer #2. Some stations also offer straight #1 and #1/#2 blend. But I almost always run the season #2 with conditioner.



I don't idle the truck for long periods just to "warm it up". I'll give it 3 or 4 minutes when it is below zero but only 45 seconds or so when between zero and thirty. You can idle them a long time and never warm 'em up... they need the load to do that so there's no sense wasting fuel or diluting your oil.



I pull a stock trailer so usually have a bit of a load. I pull my fan around Thanksgiving and leave it off all winter. I actually get heat out of the heater and have an engine that reaches operating temperature. I run a grill cover and it is about the only thing I have to watch in the winter with the fan removed since pulling a load over the continental divide will heat up the truck with no fan and a grill cover.



I keep the batteries and terminals in good shape. My thinking based on my experience is that if a Cummins won't start just because it's cold, you've got a maintenance issue somewhere... it isn't a design problem.



I also have a diesel VW. I manage the fuel the same way. It's got 250,000 on it and always starts OK.

 

[SRath]

You mite want to change to a synthetic power steering fluid.

If anything, fill the reservoir with some 90w, it's the closest these trucks ever come to having tight steering!

 

[JHenry]

I have a '98 12v, and an '06 24vHO. Both usually stay inside at night, but I have had times when they stay out overnight in single digit temps. Never any problems with starting with no plug-in. The fuel suppliers here use cold weather additives automatically, so fuel is not usually a problem. Just the usual fuel conditioner to make up for the crap they are selling.

 

[SSage]

Thanks for the advice. I didn't know about the winter #2. My uncle is driving through Nebraska right now and he says the pumps claim -10 but, he still has to run Howes in the bed tank.



So, the power steering fluid gets to thick in the real cold? I'll see if I can find a synthetic, isn't it just a 10 weight? Maybe winter rated hydo oil would work? I know the regular oil is pretty thick at 20 degrees in my tractors. I do change out the steering fluid once or twice a year when I do the gear lube and trans fluid.

 

[SRath]

I have never had any steering pump or box issues running regular ps fluid so long as it is in decent shape, not old and crappy. Synthetic is unquestionably better, as with virtually all lubricants, and that would include being able to endure much higher temps, not just sub-zero ones.



If you have good clean ps fluid in now, it should be your last worry. If you're moving to Iowa, you should be much more concerned with installing a really stout deer strainer. Seriously. Even if you live in town.

 

[Hammer]

So, do the northern guys do anything to restrict air to the cooling system?

Some do,some don't,I am one who does not restrict any air into the front end. I have had the truck into Northern Quebec where the temps dipped to -30 without any issues for heat. I am also one who plugs the truck in below 20 degrees as it allows a heavily fueled 12v to start a bit easier.



Fuel additives can create a interesting debate on here. The best thing to tell someone about them is pick the one you like and use it. I like Howes myself and really like the FPPF and Amsoil additives,it just depends on what was readily available to me when its fueling time.

Are the fuel lines to the tank prone to leaking?

Absolutely!!!!... .

Mounted along the frame rail with the brake lines means they are prone to road grime and salts of wintertime. Both the fuel lines AND the brake lines will fail eventually on trucks that see alot of wintertime driving.



The Marine 370 is one of the most under rated and abused injector for our trucks. many people will tell you not to run them for a any number of reasons. Installed in a truck thats properly tuned they will make power. Yep they do haze but I will tell you any oversized injector will haze,period. I got 525hp to the ground with my 370's and a Garrett GT37R Stage 3 charger way back when. I still have my 370's here and use them during the winter months to take my bigger candles out for bad weather. Keep in mind also almost EVERY aftermarket injector made for a 12v is based off of the Marine 370.



As Muleid use a good synthetic power steering fluid and you will be fine... ... . Andy

 

[SRath]

Mounted along the frame rail with the brake lines means they are prone to road grime and salts of wintertime. Both the fuel lines AND the brake lines will fail eventually on trucks that see alot of wintertime driving.



Andy

But why is that I have trucks that are over 35 years old and their brake and fuel lines (hard lines) are still good and Dodge's only last about 15 years IF you are lucky and diligent about washing the underside of your truck?



Kenny61 and I both have '96 models and we both experienced brake line ruptures in 2010. Kenny's caused an accident. Mine blew above the fuel tank where I can neither see it nor wash it as well. I know there have been many, many more. We all know the answer to this rhetorical question is dodge cares more about saving a few dollars per truck by using the cheapest crap materials available than the safety of those who buy and drive them.



Recall? Lawsuit? We taxpayers would just end up paying the damages for them with another bailout. Never mind...

 

[Hammer]

But why is that I have trucks that are over 35 years old and their brake and fuel lines (hard lines) are still good and Dodge's only last about 15 years IF you are lucky and diligent about washing the underside of your truck?

I have an even better question for you Scott... ...



Why is it that NOTHING with your Dodge makes you happy and you CONSTANTLY brag about how great your Chevrolet is,yet you still own and drive the Dodge?.



Personally,If I had that much distaste for a truck,like you do your Dodge,I would sell it and move on as to give myself some piece of mind.



You complain more about your Dodge than a bunch of old women at a quilt knitting contest... ..... Andy

 

[SRath]

Geez Andy. I asked a simple question that you don't have a "God's Gift is Dodge" answer for and you get your panties in a bunch.



You know the lines are crap. You just find it acceptable for brakes to fail as long as they aren't your own? Lord help the poor soul who DARES remind anyone, especially new owners, just how crappy dodge hardlines are so they have some fair warning.



You have been very helpful on many occassions, but it gets very tiresome seeing you all dressed up in your cheerleader skirt and pom-poms attacking anyone who dares criticize Almighty Dodge. Truth is truth and if you don't like it don't attack me over it.



Dodge hard lines are CHEAP CRAP!!



Prove me wrong or shove it, Andy!

 

[Hammer]

Well I wasn't going to answer you as I felt I would go over the top and say something I may regret,HOWEVER,I will try and do this as painless as possible. I had a little research to do Monday with friends of mine who are more in the know than I am.

You know the lines are crap. You just find it acceptable for brakes to fail as long as they aren't your own? Lord help the poor soul who DARES remind anyone, especially new owners, just how crappy dodge hardlines are so they have some fair warning.

Here is what I DO know Scott about the trucks brake lines... .

There have been some failures with Dodge Lines,just as both the newer Ford and Chevy's have had when they get old. Manufacturers are not using stainless steel for the lines anymore and have been using mild steel for years. NO ONE IS PERFECT,not even your beloved Chevy and thats a fact you need to get in your thick skull.

Geez Andy. I asked a simple question that you don't have a "God's Gift is Dodge" answer for and you get your panties in a bunch. You have been very helpful on many occassions, but it gets very tiresome seeing you all dressed up in your cheerleader skirt and pom-poms attacking anyone who dares criticize Almighty Dodge. Truth is truth and if you don't like it don't attack me over it.

ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT Once again!... .

I did not have my dander up its more like I have tired of your constant negative posting about your truck and how great your old Chevy was. See,I bought my truck back in early 99 with less than 12k on it and now at 250k I'd say I have a fair amount of miles on my seat and countless hours dynoing it. You wander about on here looking for places to post negative things about your truck and other wander around here trying to pass helpful info on to the new members. Then when someone calls you on it you get very defensive and come off with the pom-pom crap. What the real truth is Scott is there are times when you post very helpful info but those times have been waining alot lately and most of your recent posts do nothing more than attack the dodge you drive. Thus my reason for saying,if you dislike the truck so much,then sell it and find something to make you happy as certainly there has to be a diesel truck that even you can enjoy.



See the one thing in your post you did get correct is I am a very dedicated Mopar owner. They are a staple in my life and provide me a safe way back and forth to work under ANY conditions. I bought my truck with the intentions to build it the way I wanted to and that meant sorting out all of Ma Mopar's little issues and nuisances that would pop up. I have done this the same way for years with all the Mopar rides I own/owned and its a never ending passion of mine. See just when I think I have it done,I find something little that someone had a better idea on and we are back to the shop working again. I am sorry that you can not find any peace making your truck better and I am not sure what you could do to change that,your distaste is obvious and I do not think it will change,even if you get it just the way you want it.



As for the brake lines,are they a problem,on some trucks they have been but see I look at this differently than you. Upon doing my routine maintenance I check all the lines and hoses on my truck and if any look suspicious,they are gone,period!. At 250k I have a watchful eye on my brake lines and even have the new stainless steel kit from Classic up in the loft along with the braided EGR lines to replace the rubber hoses,preventative maintenance its called.



You have NEVER seen my truck in person only in photos,my attention to detail at times drives my gal nuts. Those who have seen it can tell you I take good care of it and even with 250k on the clock it still shows well with the trailer queens at truck shows. Its driven everyday and not kept in a garage at all and as of this writing is covered in road salt from todays storm as I just got home from work.



My advice to you is this and someone told me this along time ago also and I will pass it along to you. Before you hit the enter key read what your ready to post as if you were a new member here and try and see it from their eyes. I would be willing to bet that your style would go back to that person who was also very involved trying to help the great bunch of people we have here not the one who hates his truck... ... ... . Andy

 

[SRath]

the "D" in TDR does not stand for "Dodge" Andy

Hammer: (quote) "There have been some failures with Dodge Lines,just as both the newer Ford and Chevy's have had when they get old. Manufacturers are not using stainless steel for the lines anymore and have been using mild steel for years. NO ONE IS PERFECT,not even your beloved Chevy and thats a fact you need to get in your thick skull. "



Gee Andy, that sure seems to back up what I said about having 35 year old trucks with perfectly OK lines, doesn't it?And where in my post did YOU and you alone imagine you read the word "Chevy"?



My post: "But why is that I have trucks that are over 35 years old and their brake and fuel lines (hard lines) are still good and Dodge's only last about 15 years IF you are lucky and diligent about washing the underside of your truck?



Kenny61 and I both have '96 models and we both experienced brake line ruptures in 2010. Kenny's caused an accident. Mine blew above the fuel tank where I can neither see it nor wash it as well. I know there have been many, many more. We all know the answer to this rhetorical question is dodge cares more about saving a few dollars per truck by using the cheapest crap materials available than the safety of those who buy and drive them.



Recall? Lawsuit? We taxpayers would just end up paying the damages for them with another bailout. Never mind... "



You are making my point yet still insulting and attacking me. Why?



You laughably accuse me of "blind brand loyalty" when it is YOU still being blinded by it. Do you see the irony here, Andy?



Now you come out with a new desperate and untrue attack about my posts "always being negative" and never trying to help.



I respect you Andy, but you are being a jerk here and I won't back down or take it lying down.



I typed the simple Truth and you still don't like it. And you STILL couldn't prove a single thing about my statement being wrong, so you just insult and attack some more. Very mature, Andy.



So here's some advice for YOU, Mr. Hammer that maybe you can have someone with a clearer head explain to you:



"When you find yourself in a hole, the first thing you should do is STOP digging!" :-laf

 

[SSage]

My truck's metal fuel lines are good from what I can see, I was thinking there must be rubber fuel lines at the tank?



I have replaced the rubber lines at the engine, I figure I better look at the tank conections soon. Probably just run the diesel rated rubber all the way back when I get around to it.



My transmission lines where fine but, I replaced them so I could get rid of the old quick connectors that were leaking and the fresh rubber hoses on the coolers made sense with the DTT trans install. I started to smell diesel again and I see that at least the #5 injector leaking again, maybe more. I've had some issues with the injectors leaking a couple years ago at the return line on #5 and #6. So much for being leak free.

 

[mwilson]

Scott,



Everybody's rear brake lines crap out up here starting at 3-4 years of age since the State changed to Liquid Calcium. I don't care what make of vehicle they are OEM equipment on with the exception of a few Swedish cars, they will NOT LAST.



My '97 Cadillac Eldorado, the pride of GM built by it's best engineers and finest raw materials, hurled its brake and fuel lines last summer. I was not really surprised at 13 years of age when the pedal dropped almost to the floor one afternoon.

I had been watching the lines and figured it needed to be done before summers end, so I was ready.



I am not mad at or slamming GM, maybe they get the Caddy lines at the same place Dodge did????

I did not litigate, b****, whine or complain. It was time for them to be changed. I changed them. It is that simple with your Dodge as well.



It is not a Dodge issue only, never has been.



Fuel and coolant lines are not spared either.



Brake lines are a maintainance item here or in any rust belt state and need to be gone over thoroughly every year at inspection time.



The only sure AFFORDABLE replacement bet is Copper/Nickle Alloy lines which are a one time repair but only a scattered few OEM's are installing them at the factory (Volvo being one).



A factory installed OEM brake line rupture in the year 2010 on a 1996 vintage truck that sees winter road treatments means someone did not check his equipment very well and up here we would wonder "What ails you????".



A '96 vintage anything up here that is run in the winter will be on it's second or even third set of rear brake lines at the 14 year mark if not replaced with the C/N Alloy.



If you have annual motor vehicle inspections, then the inspector needs to taken to task for not checking the lines.



If your state uses any winter road treatment how can you possibly blame Dodge for the failure of a 14 year old 3/16" steel brake line??



I used to be a certified State Of Maine Inspection Mechanic for all classes of vehicles and school buses. I would never have trusted 14 year old brake lines that were out of sight behind a fuel tank and would not have filled out the inspection sticker until they were changed.



Just my 2 cents...



Mike

 

[SRath]

Well Mike, if you can give me some good pointers on carefully inspecting my brake line where it runs above the fuel tank, I would sure appreciate it, though I, unlike any (no-longer-named-to-keep-panties-from-getting-bunched-up) manufacturer did spend the couple dollars more for stainless steel line when it blew and will never have to worry about it again. But others here could possibly benefit from your expertise in the matter.