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W350 Crew Cab - The ultimate first gen - Pics and history

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As an addition to Robert's history lesson about 10 years ago I had a 2WD 82 D350 Crew Cab SRW long box with the factory installed 318 on propane, a 727 and Dana 60 with 4. 10 gears. The dual manifold style fuel tanks were mounted where the spare tire goes and held approx 100 liters or 25 US gals of fuel. It started and ran great, was economical but didn't have any real pulling power. Propane was about half the price of gas then. It was an ex gov truck painted yellow with a flat black hood. I only had it a short time and after taking some parts off it I sold it to a guy who was going to install a 440. Both it and my 2WD 84 D350 Crew Cab SRW long box with 360 2V, 727 and Dana 60 with 4. 10's were built in the US.

If the VIN starts with a 1 it was US built, a 2 is from Canada and a 3 is Mexico. Club Cabs were built in MX. All the CTD in Dodges were US built, the early ESN's ( approx 1996 and down ) started with a 4 then they started production at a second plant to keep up with demand and those ESN's start with a 5. Almost all of the later engine at the second plant went into Dodges. Some also went into other trucks, eg Freightliner or School buses. If you come across a 5. 9 ESN that starts with a 2 it is an industrial engine and was built in England. Some of these were installed in machines that are from the Orient.

I remember the owner of one of our now long gone Dodge Dealerships had a white 1978 D350 Crew Cab dually with a 440 in it and A/C. He of course had connections.
Class dismissed :) Shadrach
 
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I need to back up a minute and ask a question on the gen engine installed in this truck what are you useing for a throttel cable /linkage on it ? any pics or part numbers , thanks Donovan



All throttle linkages on the P pump aree 2nd gen parts. Actual cable is off of a 2nd gen truck if memory serves. Sorry I do not have a PN. :(



As an addition to Robert's history lesson about 10 years ago I had a 2WD 82 D350 Crew Cab SRW long box with the factory installed 318 on propane, a 727 and Dana 60 with 4. 10 gears. The dual manifold style fuel tanks were mounted where the spare tire goes and held approx 100 liters or 25 US gals of fuel. It started and ran great, was economical but didn't have any real pulling power. Propane was about half the price of gas then. It was an ex gov truck painted yellow with a flat black hood. I only had it a short time and after taking some parts off it I sold it to a guy who was going to install a 440. Both it and my 2WD 84 D350 Crew Cab SRW long box with 360 2V, 727 and Dana 60 with 4. 10's were built in the US.



If the VIN starts with a 1 it was US built, a 2 is from Canada and a 3 is Mexico. Club Cabs were built in MX. All the CTD in Dodges were US built, the early ESN's ( approx 1996 and down ) started with a 4 then they started production at a second plant to keep up with demand and those ESN's start with a 5. Almost all of the later engine at the second plant went into Dodges. Some also went into other trucks, eg Freightliner or School buses. If you come across a 5. 9 ESN that starts with a 2 it is an industrial engine and was built in England. Some of these were installed in machines that are from the Orient.



I remember the owner of one of our now long gone Dodge Dealerships had a white 1978 D350 Crew Cab dually with a 440 in it and A/C. He of course had connections.

Class dismissed :) Shadrach





Great addition to the thread! :)



I never knew 318s were available either. Maybe this was just a propane thing??:confused:
 
Almost all the governement trucks had 318s. They were considered a medium duty motor, with a forged crank and pistons. There were very few 360 engines with forged cranks, most being "premium" engines sold in RVs or Muscle cars... . I've had two older 4 doors, a 76 and an 85, both had 318s. The Forest Service in Yellowstone and Rocky Mountain National Park have all 318s in the four doors they have left. They only come out in really bad weather, as one employee told me,"They're the only thing that will go when it gets really bad. " I tried to talk them out of one a few years ago, but they just smiled and said, "No way!" Seems even they like Dodges... ... .



The 318 and 413 were industrial engines for years. I had a 73 dually with a 413, and 318s used to be overly abundant on the plains where they were used as irrigation powerplants. The early Plymouth Fury's and almost all Chrysler Imperials from 1959 to 1965 had the 413, and 4 barrel engines were rated 415 HP(prior to 1972 restandardization) Both were almost exclusively medium and heavy duty truck engines from 1959 up..... I've had several 318s, and they are lacking in power, but will run an extremely long time. With some cylinder head and cam work, they can be very fun in a light car or truck... ...
 
On that Gen 2 throttel cable , do you use just the cable or do you need the pedal as well ? Does a person ned the gen 2 inter cooler or will the gen 1 cooler work fine ?
 
Does the Gen 2 engine require a electric fuel pump /transfer pump ? if so what ? im assumeing near the fuel tank if so needed . Thanksonovan
 
Does the Gen 2 engine require a electric fuel pump /transfer pump ? if so what ? im assumeing near the fuel tank if so needed . Thanks donovan
 
The second gen intercooler and rad are much bigger than the first and therefore will cool better. All first gens were 160 HP and even 12V second gen were up as high as 215 while 24V hit 245HP How much power are you going to run Donovan and do you tow heavy?

The first gens actually can cool pretty good. We put a 96 CTD in a 93 W350 service truck that weighs 14k+ and the engine has been tweeked to over twice what the 93 engine put out. With a new rad and cooler and the winch dropped down to bumper height it keeps him cool even on a hot day. Up here hot means about 90*F

Shadrach
 
Im not looking to be no bomb like in the magazines if ever gets to the 300 area id be over happy . I dont tow a whole lot but want the capibility if the need arrises but when i do im not light like hauling a stock trailer full of cattel to the sale and that can be 16,000 or so gross , figure a heavy stock trailer abd 8 cows at 1500 to 2,000 lbs or my 8,000 lb race pulling truck my gen 1 raditor is almost new but i can get a heavier one
 
Also, all the 12 valve engines has mechanical lift pumps on the side of the block. IF you are not going to be trying to go much over 30 lbs of boost, I'd suggest leaving it on there, as they are very reliable. And if you're only going to be pulling intermittentely, I'd say leave the 1st gen radiator and intercooler, just for simplicity. At 300hp you could see a problem in my area, where summer temps reach 100+, when towing. That simply means backing out of the throttle some so it can catch up. My 93 runs up around 250hp and never runs hot unless the radiator starts getting some trash built up in it from the farm roads and pastures.
 
Almost all the governement trucks had 318s. ... ...



Good info. :)



On that Gen 2 throttel cable , do you use just the cable or do you need the pedal as well ? Does a person ned the gen 2 inter cooler or will the gen 1 cooler work fine ?





I believe I just used the 2nd gen cable. i remember filing out the hole in the fire wall for the larger plug on the cable to fit, but thats about it.



As for intercooler, I went bigger due to the amount of power I will be pushing. The first gen one will be fine for you. Infact, my DD (the 1990) has 284/720 wheel power and all the first gen stuff is fine. I towed 10K through the rockies at 75 mph uphill and coolant was 215 max, pyro was 1200 (With HX35 and outside air at 85 F). You should be fine.





Does the Gen 2 engine require a electric fuel pump /transfer pump ? if so what ? im assumeing near the fuel tank if so needed . Thanksonovan





Nope. Just the mechanical one that is on the side of the block, run off the cam.



The electric one you are thinking is the 24v pump that burns out, hence the reason it was relocated to the tank.



Also, all the 12 valve engines has mechanical lift pumps on the side of the block. IF you are not going to be trying to go much over 30 lbs of boost, I'd suggest leaving it on there, as they are very reliable. And if you're only going to be pulling intermittentely, I'd say leave the 1st gen radiator and intercooler, just for simplicity. At 300hp you could see a problem in my area, where summer temps reach 100+, when towing. That simply means backing out of the throttle some so it can catch up. My 93 runs up around 250hp and never runs hot unless the radiator starts getting some trash built up in it from the farm roads and pastures.





Good advice.
 
Lets get back on track here.....



So over the last week or so progress has continued.



First order of business was to remove the box and work on the 5th wheel hitch. I did not want the normal rails in the bed as I find them ugly and always in the way, so I picked up one of the 24K Lbs Reese Signature Series hidden hitch style 5th wheels. This style has the rails below the bed floor with just 4 small holes in the bed floor. The hitch has 4 legs that go through these holes and lock into the rails beneath it. These rails will also accomodate the same style gooseneck plate.



The only issue with this is the bed rails. There is no first gen style! All that is available is 2nd gen and newer! So I had to get a 2nd gen kit and rework them to apply to my 1980 frame! To get it to match to the frame has required almost 30 hours of cutting, grinding, welding, machining, hacking, recutting, regrinding, drilling, tapping, measuring, and testing. And it is still not done. ;)





Next step was the motor. When I first built this motor back in 2006, I went with a Cometic head gasket and called it a day as I was only going to stay with 300-350 HP. Nothing huge. As we all know the cometic gasket for craze for our motors went away due to lack of reliability, and with my boost being in the 60 psi range, it was time for Fire rings. So off came head... . It is currently being fire ringed and ported. I dont want to do this again so I decided to get the better breathing while it was off even though I did not want to spend the funds (so much for the turbo this month).



And in usual Robert fashion, if I have the head off, I may as well also do...





Cam! Yup. New Big stick cam from Peak Diesel Performance/Colt Cams just arrived as well as 24V lifters. With the better flow, bigger turbos, I thought this was a good way to go. Back to the if I have gone so far method as well, it made more sense to do this now as the motor is half apart and there is no rad or intercooler back in it yet.



As for pics, they will come shortly. Will have to reload my camera onto the system and upload the pics. :D
 
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Now, I'm curious as to your reasoning in purchasing the Peak bumpstick..... I've been researching these, and my Dad being the old school racer and critic, I'm not able to answer all his questions on timing, lift, and duration. I've used several of the Piers camshafts, all with great results, but I'm beginning to look beyond the usual routes here. Any thoughts, conclusions, tips? Knowledge is power, they say. And learning from a friends blown head gasket is cheaper in the long run... . :D
 
Now, I'm curious as to your reasoning in purchasing the Peak bumpstick..... I've been researching these, and my Dad being the old school racer and critic, I'm not able to answer all his questions on timing, lift, and duration. I've used several of the Piers camshafts, all with great results, but I'm beginning to look beyond the usual routes here. Any thoughts, conclusions, tips? Knowledge is power, they say. And learning from a friends blown head gasket is cheaper in the long run... . :D



Well, that is hard to answer. First off, I liked the specs. Same exhaust numbers as the PDR Marine Cam, but a bit longer intake. Nothing huge, but enough for me.



Secondly, the cam is brand new and is a thicker core. Some of the areas prone to cracking in the past have been fixed. Also not a regrind as many available on the aftermarket are.



Does that help?
 
The 5th wheel:



Started with hese from a 2nd gen mount:



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Cut a bit off to make them sit flat:



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And a bit more off... .



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Took so much off to make it flat, I had to reinforce it!





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I want beefy!



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Cant forget the side plates...



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Almost done!



#ad
 
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Very interesting. I have never heard this before. Do you have a link to this truck you speak about?is it legit or??? I would love to get some more info as I was under the thought that most new Mexican trucks were not able to be licensed under North American NMV laws.



There was alot of things that happended down in Mexico like 2nd gen Ramchargers that we never saw up here so that is always a possibility. Your info I'd something I would live to get more info and proof on. :)



Thanks! That's great!



Sorry for the slow response. Took some digging, but found the one with some info, and a pic



4 door - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
 
In the event anyone is following the motor build and wants cam specs, they are as follows:



Big Stick Cam specs are: Int 181* exh 210* int lift . 280 exh lift . 307



To give a comparison, the marine cams that are often used are as follows:



Marine Cam specs are: Int 175* exh 210* int lift . 251 exh lift . 307
 
In the event anyone is following the motor build and wants cam specs, they are as follows:



Big Stick Cam specs are: Int 181* exh 210* int lift . 280 exh lift . 307



To give a comparison, the marine cams that are often used are as follows:



Marine Cam specs are: Int 175* exh 210* int lift . 251 exh lift . 307



I think you will like the cam.



I run a 175* . 251 / 206* . 297 cam and really like it. I was going to run the Big Stick but was worried about the exhaust brake.
 
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