gsbrockman
TDR MEMBER
The MegaCab currently has 52,644 miles on it. I'd been contemplating performing the transmission service on it since I crested the 50K mark, but the weather just now was cooperative enough to do so.
I purchased the filters (Spin-on # 5179267AC $14. 56 and Sump # 5013470AD $26. 33) 2 gallons of MOPAR ATF+4 (# 5013458AA $24. 12 each) and 4 quart bottles (# 5013457AA $6. 05 each) and one tube RTV Sealer (# 5010884AA $4. 62) at Mann Chrysler in Richmond, Kentucky.
Apparently the Cummins Gorilla is no longer installing oil filters on the 6. 7L's in Indiana. They are now installing the spin-on filters and tightening the single screw that secures the sump filter inside the 68RFE's nowadays. :-laf He must have had a long run as CTD Oil Filter Installer as my 1998 RAM 2500 12V, 2000 RAM 2500 Quad Cab, and 2003 RAM 2500 Crew Cab all required a combination of cussin' spittin' and other colorful ideas in removal of the OEM oil filters.
First snafu : Dealer said I'd only need about 5 or 6 quarts of ATF+4. I called BS on this as my 2000 Dodge RAM 2500 Quad Cab w/CTD & 47RH required nearly 8 quarts when I changed it. You'll notice I purchased twelve quarts total... ... I had to buy a portion of it in quart bottles as I took the last two gallons they had on the shelf. I asked about their return policy as I was 26 miles or so from Richmond and that I'd rather return some later instead of being too low after the change. No problem... .
I live about 26 miles from Richmond, so the truck had a good 60 miles +/- by the time I got home..... suitable for a good drain and scalding when I drop the pan. :-laf I'm a glutton for punishment I guess... .
I get the pan off and prepare to remove the old RTV from the pan while the fluid continues to drain. The spin-on filter (this filters the transmission fluid from the transmission cooler via the return line) is to be tightened ony 3/4 turn after gasket contacts upon installation. The Cummins Gorilla sure did a lot more than that on mine. Time for the small oil filter wrench.
The single screw that secures the sump filter was not torqued to any specs. I don't have any torx sockets, but do have a torx screwdriver assortment. I eventually had to wrap a rag around my T-25 and put a pair of channel locks on it to remove this poor screw. Cummins Gorilla strikes again!!!!!!
The above steps probably only consume about 30 minutes or so. The sump filter also came with a new o-ring seal where the neck goes into the transmission. They send a replacement for a reason... ... so I then spend the next 3 hours or so trying to remove the old one. :-{} Knowing what I know now..... the old one would still be in there.
Anyway, after more cussin' and spittin' the new o-ring is in.
I tossed in 6 quarts off the bat, checked for leaks, and re-checked the fluid level. I then added two more quarts. I then have my wonderful wife Becky perform a 10 mile round-trip test drive (a severly soaked right arm sleeve of a sweatshirt and center console don't play well together) and re-check... . adding two more quarts. The level is now between the two upper "HOT" marks, but I'll most like add another 12 to 16 ozs after I test drive it on a longer trip sometime. Essentially I'll be at 10. 5 quarts or so..... a far cry from 5 or 6 quarts, huh???
The OEM fluid..... even with some light towing that I have performed... . still really looked very good. I'll most likely just perform a flush around 100k miles and skip the filters then.
I cleaned up my work area and then cleaned up myself... ... including ditching my blood-soaked appearing sweatshirt, and then took Ol' Blue out for a drive. All is well... ... ...
I purchased the filters (Spin-on # 5179267AC $14. 56 and Sump # 5013470AD $26. 33) 2 gallons of MOPAR ATF+4 (# 5013458AA $24. 12 each) and 4 quart bottles (# 5013457AA $6. 05 each) and one tube RTV Sealer (# 5010884AA $4. 62) at Mann Chrysler in Richmond, Kentucky.
Apparently the Cummins Gorilla is no longer installing oil filters on the 6. 7L's in Indiana. They are now installing the spin-on filters and tightening the single screw that secures the sump filter inside the 68RFE's nowadays. :-laf He must have had a long run as CTD Oil Filter Installer as my 1998 RAM 2500 12V, 2000 RAM 2500 Quad Cab, and 2003 RAM 2500 Crew Cab all required a combination of cussin' spittin' and other colorful ideas in removal of the OEM oil filters.
First snafu : Dealer said I'd only need about 5 or 6 quarts of ATF+4. I called BS on this as my 2000 Dodge RAM 2500 Quad Cab w/CTD & 47RH required nearly 8 quarts when I changed it. You'll notice I purchased twelve quarts total... ... I had to buy a portion of it in quart bottles as I took the last two gallons they had on the shelf. I asked about their return policy as I was 26 miles or so from Richmond and that I'd rather return some later instead of being too low after the change. No problem... .
I live about 26 miles from Richmond, so the truck had a good 60 miles +/- by the time I got home..... suitable for a good drain and scalding when I drop the pan. :-laf I'm a glutton for punishment I guess... .
I get the pan off and prepare to remove the old RTV from the pan while the fluid continues to drain. The spin-on filter (this filters the transmission fluid from the transmission cooler via the return line) is to be tightened ony 3/4 turn after gasket contacts upon installation. The Cummins Gorilla sure did a lot more than that on mine. Time for the small oil filter wrench.
The single screw that secures the sump filter was not torqued to any specs. I don't have any torx sockets, but do have a torx screwdriver assortment. I eventually had to wrap a rag around my T-25 and put a pair of channel locks on it to remove this poor screw. Cummins Gorilla strikes again!!!!!!
The above steps probably only consume about 30 minutes or so. The sump filter also came with a new o-ring seal where the neck goes into the transmission. They send a replacement for a reason... ... so I then spend the next 3 hours or so trying to remove the old one. :-{} Knowing what I know now..... the old one would still be in there.

I tossed in 6 quarts off the bat, checked for leaks, and re-checked the fluid level. I then added two more quarts. I then have my wonderful wife Becky perform a 10 mile round-trip test drive (a severly soaked right arm sleeve of a sweatshirt and center console don't play well together) and re-check... . adding two more quarts. The level is now between the two upper "HOT" marks, but I'll most like add another 12 to 16 ozs after I test drive it on a longer trip sometime. Essentially I'll be at 10. 5 quarts or so..... a far cry from 5 or 6 quarts, huh???
The OEM fluid..... even with some light towing that I have performed... . still really looked very good. I'll most likely just perform a flush around 100k miles and skip the filters then.
I cleaned up my work area and then cleaned up myself... ... including ditching my blood-soaked appearing sweatshirt, and then took Ol' Blue out for a drive. All is well... ... ...