18k trailer in the mountains = 230 temps?

[HBarlow]

I agree with Prairie Dog above. A pyro probe downstream of the turbo provides you with enough information to guess what actual exhaust gas temperature is but not a true or accurate reading. It is a little better than no probe at all.

 

[DMorris]

Good advice, Think I will look into dropping the turbo and drilling and tapping a hole in a more accurate spot.

 

[HBarlow]

Most installers drill and tap the upper portion of the center horn of the exhaust manifold. I've never heard of cracking that resulted from using that method.

 

[MChrist]

I've drilled and tapped both my Dodges without removing the turbo. Having the engine running blows the shavings out of the hole you are drilling as you breach the cast iron. If any shavings do make it to the turbo, they would get harmlessly blown through. Shut off the engine, wait for it to cool down, heavily grease your tap and the chips will stick to the tap. If you don't, the hot manifold will melt the grease, and the shavings won't stick.
I would be surprised if any shop removes the turbo to install a pyrometer.

 

[wcjp]

I'd wind out 4th gear while pulling heavy through the mountains with that much weight. Hold 4th at/near 2700rpms is no big deal. You should generate less heat in 4th than bogging down 5th. Have you considered lowering the Smarty and add timing? Don't forget to check tire pressure for all wheels. When I'm towing heavy I occasionally check all wheels/brakes/bearings with my infrared heat gun. Expect the sun side of the vehicle to be 10deg warmer.

 

[Bug Out]

When I am towing the toy hauler, I'm at 24K+ GCVW. When going up 6% or better hills or long hills, the wife knows the "Phoenix" game..... Once the engine temps start climbing, I max the heater at HOT and turn it on aiming the heat out the windows. the engine temps stay well under 230, but a bit off 200.



The inside of the cab gets like Phoenix in the summer time, but we dont overheat. .

 

[Shadrach]

An overheated wife could be worse than and overheated engine :-laf Shadrach

 

[AH64ID]

As it's been stated move the pyro pre-turbo for real indications. SW4 is a lot of fuel for that stock turbo to be towing on. Try SW3 and see what it does, but timing will add a little to the coolant temp, but really drop the EGT's. But its also less power so coolant temps may drop.

What kind of boost levels are you seeing?

I would drive rpms not speed. 2500 rpms is a good number to improve air, coolant, and oil flow. 50 in 5th is about 2100 rpms, a little low for that much fuel and weight. 2500 rpms will get you 42 in 4th or 59 in 5th.

The stock thermostat goes full open at 207° so 210-215 is pretty normal, 230 is on the warm side.

When was the last time the thermostat was changed, radiator cleaned, and the coolant flushed

As for drilling and tapping everyone has their . 02, so here is mine. . DO NOT do it with the motor running or with grease!!!! Do it on a cold motor/manifold. Drill it, then tap it. Then use a little shop air to blow thru the hole. Here are the reasons. With the motor running the turbine is spinning at a decent rate, any shaving that fall inside (and they will) will hit a spinning turbine, which can do a lot more damage than falling into a stopped turbine. Also if for some reason the bit breaks you now get to buy a new turbo. As for the grease it keeps the shavings attached to the grease, which can end up on the inside of your manifold. So the next time you start your motor the grease will melt and send shavings thru the spinning turbine. I have drilled/tapped my stock manifold twice in the manner I mentioned and recently pulled my turbo, not one scratch, ding, dent, etc on my turbine.

 

[BGlidewell]

As it's been stated move the pyro pre-turbo for real indications. SW4 is a lot of fuel for that stock turbo to be towing on. Try SW3 and see what it does, but timing will add a little to the coolant temp, but really drop the EGT's. But its also less power so coolant temps may drop.



... .

this is what I was thinking. I towed a small enclosed trailer, a 16' pace journey with a yamaha rhino up into NM a few years back on SW3. Going up the cap rock, I had to constantly back off to stay below 1000 with my pre-turbo gauge.

the truck pulled just fine but I could have easily melted it even on that level. When I hook up the 15k mobile suites, the truck goes to stock.

 

[AH64ID]

this is what I was thinking. I towed a small enclosed trailer, a 16' pace journey with a yamaha rhino up into NM a few years back on SW3. Going up the cap rock, I had to constantly back off to stay below 1000 with my pre-turbo gauge.
the truck pulled just fine but I could have easily melted it even on that level. When I hook up the 15k mobile suites, the truck goes to stock.

On your 05 I would tow on SW1 over stock any day! A little timing is a good thing on an 04. 5+, the stock timing is very retarded for emissions, and runs the EGT's very hot.

1000° pre-turbo is nothing, my truck can hit that empty. With Smarty timing 1300* is the max continuous you should let it hit when towing. But 1000° is easily obtained with the stock cam/turbo/piston design.

 

[BGlidewell]

On your 05 I would tow on SW1 over stock any day! A little timing is a good thing on an 04. 5+, the stock timing is very retarded for emissions, and runs the EGT's very hot.



1000° pre-turbo is nothing, my truck can hit that empty. With Smarty timing 1300* is the max continuous you should let it hit when towing. But 1000° is easily obtained with the stock cam/turbo/piston design.

1000+ is not nothing when it is sustained. To each his own but heat has to go somewhere and the topic of this thread is related to that.

 

[AH64ID]

Yes heat has to go somewhere, which a lot of which depends on timing. But stock will run 1450* all day long, not hurt a thing and not overheat. (03-04 run much cooler). . So it really is nothing for these motors, I have sustained 1000* with timing for hours and never even had the thermostat go full open.

Something is amiss, and its probably as simple as an old radiator and thermostat.