My TIPM Saver for tow plug

[Motorhead]

Well after about 4 months design work and contacting about 7 parts vendors to buy quality parts, I have finished my TIPM Saver Tow plug relay box. I have 60 amp rated, silver contact relays, An American company fuse panel and 15 amp auto-reset breakers for each of the FOUR circuits. American made 16 gauge wire and connectors. 3M self sealing, heat shrink, butt connectors to safely tie into the factory wire loom under the back of the truck and not risk moisture and road salt intrusion of the wiring.
The FOUR circuits consist of: RIGHT turn/stop, LEFT turn/stop, RUNNING lights and the BACK-UP lights.
The BACK-UP light circuit can be used for the trailer AND if I want to add more back-up lights to the back of the truck without over loading the factory circuits.
This relay box will eliminate the TIPM (which costs $711. 00 from the dealer plus $200. 00 install and program) from controlling the tow plugs. I set it up to protect BOTH the 7 pin and the 4 pin factory tow plugs.
I will run a 10 gauge primary wire to the stud where the TIPM gets its power and protect it with a 40 amp, auto-reset, circuit breaker.

I set it up to mount up under the bed behind the driver side rear wheel.

By the way, I ALSO am using spike suppressed relays to prevent any feedback issues from the relay coil to the TIPM.

I did a half hour submerged test and no moisture entered.

This now keeps me from worrying about hooking up someones trailer that I don't know whether the lights work or might have a short.

I built eleven of them. One is for me.
Any interest, PM meOR check the TDR classifieds for more info.

 

[JFought]

finally!!!!
i was about to start producing a unit for my self. .
this makes it easier!!
make that 10 available!!
i will pm you to get it.

the aftermarket dodge harness i have for headache rack lights plugged in between the factory rectangle plug and the exiting plug (works like a coupler to add a plug in bed for 5 wheel. ) it is a plug and play dodge part)

** with that installed, is your unit all plug and play?
(you didn't show any electrical ends of your "tipm saver")

 

[TCDiesel]

40 amp may be to Much... . and how do you plan on fooling the PCI? You get this to work Plan on selling Big time... .

 

[Motorhead]

with that installed, is your unit all plug and play?
(you didn't show any electrical ends of your "tipm saver")

It is NOT a plug and play. Basically, you have to cut the four dedicated wires for the trailer plug and hook the RED taped bundle to the truck side of the wiring and then the BLUE taped bundle hooks to the trailer plug side.

That is why I spent extra money to buy 3M sealing, shrink butt connectors. With the FACTORY tow package (the 7 pin and the 4 pin plugs), you have to interrupt the wiring about 2. 5 feet from the plugs as Dodge "split" the wiring back away from both plugs. I followed the wires backward until I found the FACTORY splices where they split the trailer output wiring into 2 wires to go to both plugs.

I will be able to custom make ones with longer wiring if needed for non stock bed applications.

 

[Motorhead]

40 amp may be to Much... . and how do you plan on fooling the PCI? You get this to work Plan on selling Big time... .

I don't think that 40 amp is too much for the primary feed wire. I found online some graphs of wire length to size to amp capabilities. The 10 gauge can actually handle 50 amp breaker for the length it is running.
I also ran 16 gauge wire to and from my box. The trucks wiring is only 18 gauge. I didn't want any voltage loss.

I am not sure what you mean on fooling the PCI. I hooked it to my truck and tested each circuit with 130 watt load. The TIPM doesn't have any issues with only closing a relay.

 

[seafish]

NICE work... I too have been trying to do something like this for awile to protect BOTH the OEM Pollock Blade Trailer plug, as well as the Pollock Bullet type plug Ii I nstalled in my bumper for hauling my flatbed tariler and chipper. I think you MIGHT be able to use one of the adapters that JFought is referring to to make your unit plug n' play. It fits in between the oem plug and the factory wiring harness. I used one to install the second trailer plug. Here is a link to the one I got--



Valley Fifth Wheel and Gooseneck Wiring Harness with 7-Pole - Dodge with Factory Tow Package Valley Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring V30137

 

[JFought]

with already having random wire issues, i would really like it to be plug and play. could you maybe buy the empty factory plug ends and add the to your kit. (like the link harness) but just buy and build the factory ends? Several guys have bought factory plugs, for other items, and poped all the pins out, and replaced a bad housing/plug assembly. .

I know your device will help, however i also looking to be able to remove and test, any and all circuits easily, if needed in the future. as we all know the 06 is fickle and sensitive to all wiring issues. Hense plug and play. .

 

[JFought]

(i see why you want to go in front of the plug to protect the old flat four way plug. And i do realize the benefit of protecting both sides. Have you though about this... )

Since the grey box is already putting out a protected circuits, (lights, power, back up,ect. . ) You could integrate a entire new flat four way going out of grey box to bumper. This would eliminate half of the circuit wiring,(plugging into factory four way then going to grey box the going back to bumper to keep it "plug and play") on the protected side.

Then if it had the factory plugs that we are talking about it would take out any cutting or splices to the factory harness, thus "plug and play" with the factory wires.

(I do appreciate your work an though to tackle this problem. I am not trying to nit pick. )

 

[Motorhead]

(i see why you want to go in front of the plug to protect the old flat four way plug. And i do realize the benefit of protecting both sides. Have you though about this... )



Since the grey box is already putting out a protected circuits, (lights, power, back up,ect. . ) You could integrate a entire new flat four way going out of grey box to bumper. This would eliminate half of the circuit wiring,(plugging into factory four way then going to grey box the going back to bumper to keep it "plug and play") on the protected side.



Then if it had the factory plugs that we are talking about it would take out any cutting or splices to the factory harness, thus "plug and play" with the factory wires.



(I do appreciate your work an though to tackle this problem. I am not trying to nit pick. )

I appreciate your feedback. I didn't think of a plug in as the plugs get costly.

I figure that this is a one time install that done right, won't give guys any problems. That is why I selected the 3M sealed butt connectors to splice the box in and protect the wiring. I just today rechecked wire prices from 2 months ago and wire has shot way up in price.

 

[JFought]

email sent

 

[Tinman]

I don't tow much but since I had to replace my TIPM last fall, you have my attention. I don't understand the need for this, so could I get a little background info.

 

[JFought]

this would prevent damage to the tipm.
it reads the "signal" from the tipm (lights) and send a different power source(from his unit relay) to the light(s) so if there are any problems it trips the new self-resetting fuse (a few minutes latter it turn back on automatically) and sends the power to that circuit again, even with a direct short.

Basically protecting the tipm from any damage.

 

[Motorhead]

I don't tow much but since I had to replace my TIPM last fall, you have my attention. I don't understand the need for this, so could I get a little background info.

In 2006, Dodge went to the TIPM or Total Integrated Power Management system instead of the good old reliable fuse and relay fuse box.

I guess there is a reason for this but I don't know why.

Anyhow, The TIPM now switches electrical loads electronically instead of load relays like were used in previous years. If you encounter a short, it can sometimes wipe out the TIPM. Sometimes it can be reset at the dealer for about $80. 00 from what I have read. If it cannot be reset then YOU know what it cost you.

The trailer tow plugs are ALSO controlled by the TIPM. Trailers are somewhat notorious for shorts especially when you hook up to a trailer that you are not familiar with.

The BOX that I and others have built, takes the TIPM out from DIRECTLY controlling the trailer light plugs ONLY. What now takes place is that the 4 TIPM controlled TRAILER light circuits, LT turn/ stop, RT turn/stop, RUNNING LTS, and BACK-UPS, now just close individual relays contained in a water tight enclosure. The relays now control the individual lights and they are EACH circuit protected by a 15 amp circuit breaker (4 total). The box gets its power from a main battery terminal under the hood and it is protected by a 40 amp breaker.

The whole idea is to remove or protect the circuit power control coming from the TIPM to the trailer plugs.

 

[seafish]

Motorhead, I am still VERY interested in buying one of these from you and I am sending you a reply PM, but I DO have a question for you regarding the ability to add the additional back-up lights that you mentioned.

Firstly, I am wondering if there is a free lug or two on the back-up relay inside the box, so that all I would need to do is bring additonal wires from the lights to the box??

Secondly, and more importantly, I have TWO sets of aux back-up lights that I would like to have powered by your relay box. Each lamp is 50w x 4 lamps = total draw of BOTH sets is 200 watts / 12 volts is 16. 66 amps, so it seems that this would end up tripping the 15 amp auto reset breaker, right ?? And that is without any trailer back-up lights !!!

So my question is this Is it at all possible to upgrade (me or you??) the back-up relay breaker to a 25 amp auto reset breaker without too much trouble??

Even if I hook up only one set of aux back-up lights, those plus any trailer lights would seem to draw very close to the 15 amp breaker.

Thirdly, I am wondering if I can run an #8 wire to the box as a primary supply and protect it with a 50 amp fusible link in order to have still a little more power availble for all of the lights that the box is going to power. In other words, what If I use my brakes while backing up with 2 sets of back-up lights plus whatever is on the trailer ??

Please know that I am not at all trying to rain on all of the GREAT work you have done to put this TIPM Saver together... I am just wondering what you think I can do to hook up BOTH sets of back-up lights that I have in my bumper, and still utilize your excellent TIPM Saver.

Whaddya think??

 

[Motorhead]

Motorhead, I am still VERY interested in buying one of these from you and I am sending you a reply PM, but I DO have a question for you regarding the ability to add the additional back-up lights that you mentioned.



Firstly, I am wondering if there is a free lug or two on the back-up relay inside the box, so that all I would need to do is bring additonal wires from the lights to the box??



Secondly, and more importantly, I have TWO sets of aux back-up lights that I would like to have powered by your relay box. Each lamp is 50w x 4 lamps = total draw of BOTH sets is 200 watts / 12 volts is 16. 66 amps, so it seems that this would end up tripping the 15 amp auto reset breaker, right ?? And that is without any trailer back-up lights !!!



So my question is this Is it at all possible to upgrade (me or you??) the back-up relay breaker to a 25 amp auto reset breaker without too much trouble??



Even if I hook up only one set of aux back-up lights, those plus any trailer lights would seem to draw very close to the 15 amp breaker.



Thirdly, I am wondering if I can run an #8 wire to the box as a primary supply and protect it with a 50 amp fusible link in order to have still a little more power availble for all of the lights that the box is going to power. In other words, what If I use my brakes while backing up with 2 sets of back-up lights plus whatever is on the trailer ??



Please know that I am not at all trying to rain on all of the GREAT work you have done to put this TIPM Saver together... I am just wondering what you think I can do to hook up BOTH sets of back-up lights that I have in my bumper, and still utilize your excellent TIPM Saver.



Whaddya think??

Seafish, You could run at least TWO of your 50 watt back-up lights on the truck and increase the one circuit breaker to 20 amps. 8. 33 amps would run the back-ups and the balance is for the trailer circuit. You would just tie into the relay switched output wire from my box that is dedicated to the back-ups.



Here are a few more pics of where it is mounted under the driver side rear of the bed.

I read another post that you subscribed to as to wether you have a TIPM or not. If you have the small relays in your power distribution box then you do not have a TIPM.

 

[Motorhead]

A few install pictures. The red taped group of wires is hooked to the truck side of the box. The blue taped group of wires goes to the trailer plugs. In one of the pictures you will see the black, factory splice that Dodge put in to split the yellow wires to the TWO tow light plugs. It is important to splice in the box BEFORE these splices so BOTH plugs are protected.

Another bonus is that the relays are audible when the four ways are on. It tells me they are working.

 

[JFought]

motorhead-did you get my email?
I need to get one of your devices.

 

[Motorhead]

motorhead-did you get my email?

I need to get one of your devices.

Yes I did and I sent you a return email.

Check your SPAM folder or I can PM you here on the site with the details. Chris

 

[goodguys75]

wow cool idea I guess, just a dumb question, is it a real big problem with factory trailer plugs>>>>>I have towed many trailers and never have had a problem so far... ... But if it is a huge issue... . that is a great job... .

 

[Motorhead]

wow cool idea I guess, just a dumb question, is it a real big problem with factory trailer plugs>>>>>I have towed many trailers and never have had a problem so far... ... But if it is a huge issue... . that is a great job... .

It's not a problem until you get a trailer with a short or wired wrong. Then you PAY $$$