power windows inoperative

[frank1]

My 03' quad cab's passenger side power windows to not operate any more. They only operate from the drivers side switches. Is there a separate fuse per side? Bad contacts on the switches? Any info. in where to start looking would greatly be appreciated! Frank

 

[Prairie Dog]

It's the lousy lock-out switch in your drivers control. They go bad even if you never touch them. Try hitting the switch 10 - 15 times and see if it works for awhile. This reminds me, I too need to take that stupid switch out and jumper it so it works.
If you don't want to jumper it then you can get a nice stock looking replacement from Rock-Auto for $104.

 

[AABEN]

Jest remove it clean it check to see if the wires are OK and tight fit. I have done my 03 adout 3 times still working good. == GOOD LUCK ==

 

[frank1]

Thanks guys, I hit the window lock about 25- 30 times and all windows work fine!!! I'll remove and take a look at the switch this weekend. Yhanks again, Frank

 

[ColoradoKing]

Another common problem area is that the wiring loom gets kinked between the door and frame. This happened to my speaker wire and door lock on the driver's side rear door. I fixed it myself, but apparently there is now a TSB on it. Something to consider if you have an issue again sometime down the road.

 

[akshadow]

How do you remove the switch? I am fine controlling the windows but my wife thinks she needs to be in control of her own window
Ron

 

[ColoradoKing]

You have to take off the door panel, and then carefully (gently) press in the tabs that hold the entire switch assembly into the door panel recess. Start at one end and work your way along. Once the switch panel is out, it's easy to access the switches.

 

[akshadow]

Thanks for the information

 

[Prairie Dog]

Another member here, "Grunt", sent me a PM with a link to another site with a good write up for the fix. Turns out the solder joints inside the switch assembly are poorly done (cold and cracked). I resoldered mine and it works perfect again.
PM me if you would like the link.

Scotty

 

[RDeFayette]

Just an FYI,

Between mself, my dad and my brotherwe've had 4 swithes go bad on our trucks over the years. Paying attention one day when it was raining a few years ago, while going down the road with the drivers window cracked a couple of inches watch where the water drips. Like it has eyes for the switch. All the water was dripping directly on the switch causes the corrision/bad solder joints (IMHO). Installed vent visors on all 3 trucks to divert the water and haven't had a problem in 3-4 years. Doesn't happen on the pass side as that seat is empty most of the time. Check it out.

Makes sense to me unless the robot solder these boards just doesn't like the drivers side boards!

So far as taking the switch apart, the easiest thing to do is drill a 1/4" hole in the side of the switch next to the lock out button and flush the lock out button with eletrical contact cleaner. Operate the button while doing this to clean the contacts.

When it dries out, shouldn't take but a couple of minutes, give it a good shot of wd-40.

Begining to end 10 minutes and you should be good to go. AND you don't have to fork over the $ for a new switch.

 

[Prairie Dog]

If you take the switch out you'll see that any water that hits it drains round it and down into the door. The part of the switch you touch acts like a little roof. It's really pretty clever as no water will get into the switch assembly. Mine was like-new clean inside and showed no signs of water intrusion.
There isn't a problem with corrosion as much as just cracked solder joints from contamination before the flow-solder process (which historically causes these kinds of latent failures).
Heres a pic of the joints:
#ad

Notice how the solder is just sitting in a blob on top of the circuit board and it's dull instead of shiny? Thats a sure sign of a bad flow.


Cheers,
Scotty

 

[longhaul]

Another common problem area is that the wiring loom gets kinked between the door and frame. This happened to my speaker wire and door lock on the driver's side rear door. I fixed it myself, but apparently there is now a TSB on it. Something to consider if you have an issue again sometime down the road.

I agree. The wiring in the flexible loom going into the door can get kinked and break. I had this happen on my 2003 quad cab rear drives door. I re-soldiered the wires and was back in business.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I agree. The wiring in the flexible loom going into the door can get kinked and break. I had this happen on my 2003 quad cab rear drives door. I re-soldiered the wires and was back in business.

Yea, I'm (not) looking forward to that fix some day soon myself. I know it's just a matter of time. .

 

[bigflatdaddy]

Is there a trick to getting the unit apart? I can get all of the tabs loose, but cannot separate the halves. .

 

[Prairie Dog]

Did you pop all the switch caps off? After that you just force it apart.

 

[longhaul]

Did you check the wires coming out of the switch to make sure the switch is a fault? It is possible you have a broken wire that could be causing your problem. You might want to try a continuity check if you have not done so yet. Good Luck!!

 

[AHofner]

I finally got around to addressing this problem with my truck. I took the drivers side window module out and used a can of compressed air to blow the crud out from around the lockout switch. Replaced the module and everything works great! I thought I was going to have to buy a new one, but a can of compressed air saved me about $130. Hopefully this works for somebody else.



Andrew

 

[RDeFayette]

compressed air AND electrical contact cleaner works everytime for me.