2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering Advive

[CCamillo]

Well I have been doing alot of reading abbout how to fix are steering problems. Mine is completly stock with around 160,xxx on it. I'm on track bar #3 and its only about 2 months old and I think it is bad again. I bought it from napa and have been turning it in under warrnty to get a new one. I'm done changing it all the time. I want to upgrade to the 3rd gen. Who has the best bracket? I would perffer a bolt on one but I can weld it if need be. Also I was thinking about the Thuren adjutable track bar. Will it work with any bracket or does it have to be the thuren one? I don 't have a lift yet but I do have the leveling spacers. I was wondering if the spacers are throwing my steering geometry off and eating up the track bars. I would also like to do the "T" style steering when funds permit. What do you guys think? Any help or advice would be great. Oh and I will be doing the rock soild steering bushing also. Just hoping to get it driving good again.

Thanks Chris

 

[DSpringstead]

CCamillo I went thru the exact same thing. I put a leveling kit on with a new NAPA track bar. I swapped the track bar out for a BD 0" to 4" adjustable to find that the T/B from NAPA already had slop in it. You'll be glad you did. Strictly bolt on or you can weld it. Also check the steering box. Replaced my 3 times. If you have to you'll be money ahead going with Red Head Steering out of Seattle. The last box you'll ever need to buy. T steering I think is the way to go. At least you toe-in won't change with load.

 

[bry1216]

I installed the Steering Box Stabilizer from Solid Steel, this is the original with thicker metal.



SolidSteel. biz - Home of the Dodge Steering Stabilizer - Home of the Dodge Steering Stabilizer



Made a significant change to the steering!



I found track bar bushing was weak which was changed for the non-adjustable Track Bar Kit.



Finalized with new alignment and steers like a new truck at 92,000 miles.



This is the only modifications to my truck suspension.

 

[Joe Mc]

MHO - Go with 3rd gen conversion adj track bar. Removes the weak "Ball joint" type end from the mix. and the Steering stabilizer as it also stiffens the front rails as it stops the steering box pitman arm from moving side to side.

 

[CCamillo]

I already installed the a DSS from BD about 2 years ago. I still have play in the wheel and just ordered the rock soild bushing kit. I hope it will help. I will let you guys know what happens.

Chris

 

[bry1216]

I already installed the a DSS from BD about 2 years ago. I still have play in the wheel and just ordered the rock soild bushing kit. I hope it will help. I will let you guys know what happens.

Chris

I found 1-2 inches of free rotation after installing the Steering Box bracket and it was due to a weak bushing in the track bar. That is when I upgraded the track bar to get rid of the Ball Joint.



Drive pretty good for a solid axle front end.

 

[SRath]

Drive pretty good for a solid axle front end.

You should say "for a modern solid axle frontend".



It wasn't until dodge ruined these trucks with coil/link/trackbar junk that solid axle frontends were ever known for any steering issues. Leafsprings were far simpler, more durable, and stronger. The term "Dodge Death Wobble" never even existed until 1994.



To add insult to injury, they ruined the legendary dana 60 itself with 1/2 ton crap like balljoints and scrawny axle shafts and lazy-boy CAD systems.



My truck: new 3rd gen adjustable track bar, new aftermarket adjustable control arms, DSS's poorly fitting & overly pricey steering box brace, all new Moog T-style steering, new Moog balljoints, new axle u-joints & seals & bearings, new RSX9000 shocks, perfectionist realignment on state-of-the-art Hunter machine, carefully balanced wheels & tires, completely rebuilt & rebalanced driveshafts & new carrier bearing; new RSX9000 rear shocks



Results: Over $3000 poorer (even after doing the labor myself); no more Death Wobble (quite); but still shakes like a dog sh**g a razor blade going down the road during the one year since all of this was done. The expensive 3rd gen adjustable track bar poly bushings are already showing some slop. Less than 8k miles on all of it. It's too miserable to drive any distance, so I mostly drive the old '81 K20 leafspring solid axle chevy, which drives and steers like a dream. That entire truck cost me $1200 and I have less than $2000 in it total. The venerable 350 in it is to gas engines what the Cummins is to diesels.



Still, I keep trying to save the dodge... But I am looking hard for a 12 valve p-pump Cummins to drop in my K30 crewcab. Then I'll have the best engine and truck combination and can stop pouring money into this doge and let it rust into becoming the beater firewood hauler it wants so badly to be.

 

[Axtell3]

Bigfoot Truck Camper 1500 series

Heres the bigfoot camper I found.

Tried to buy the truck it was on, but didn't have my ducks in a row at the time.

 

[AEdelheit]

You should say "for a modern solid axle frontend".



It wasn't until dodge ruined these trucks with coil/link/trackbar junk that solid axle frontends were ever known for any steering issues. Leafsprings were far simpler, more durable, and stronger. The term "Dodge Death Wobble" never even existed until 1994.



To add insult to injury, they ruined the legendary dana 60 itself with 1/2 ton crap like balljoints and scrawny axle shafts and lazy-boy CAD systems.



My truck: new 3rd gen adjustable track bar, new aftermarket adjustable control arms, DSS's poorly fitting & overly pricey steering box brace, all new Moog T-style steering, new Moog balljoints, new axle u-joints & seals & bearings, new RSX9000 shocks, perfectionist realignment on state-of-the-art Hunter machine, carefully balanced wheels & tires, completely rebuilt & rebalanced driveshafts & new carrier bearing; new RSX9000 rear shocks



Results: Over $3000 poorer (even after doing the labor myself); no more Death Wobble (quite); but still shakes like a dog sh**g a razor blade going down the road during the one year since all of this was done. The expensive 3rd gen adjustable track bar poly bushings are already showing some slop. Less than 8k miles on all of it. It's too miserable to drive any distance, so I mostly drive the old '81 K20 leafspring solid axle chevy, which drives and steers like a dream. That entire truck cost me $1200 and I have less than $2000 in it total. The venerable 350 in it is to gas engines what the Cummins is to diesels.



Still, I keep trying to save the dodge... But I am looking hard for a 12 valve p-pump Cummins to drop in my K30 crewcab. Then I'll have the best engine and truck combination and can stop pouring money into this doge and let it rust into becoming the beater firewood hauler it wants so badly to be.

Wow sounds like you threw a bunch of money in the toilet , should do some more research next time, these trucks can drive great for far less then what you spent

 

[Bob4x4]

Wow sounds like you threw a bunch of money in the toilet , should do some more research next time, these trucks can drive great for far less then what you spent

A save your typing. he won't be happy till he's got a chevy nameplate :-laf