Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Hard shifting 5600

[Grizzly]

ILIANBG, They obviously did something wrong and don't want to fess up to it. You may have to lean on them to make it right. If they don't make it right, you'll have a problem with it down the road.

 

[ILIANBG]

Grizzly,
I understand, but customers are not allowed to go in the shop's working area, so I could not see what happened the first time. It's not good. You know, you just have a feeling that something was done wrong. But I thought a diesel shop should be ok, the owner said they have done hundreds of these clutches... I think that driving around 100 miles with the problem did something. With the second set of parts, it was a night and day difference. I just wish it was done the first time. My problem was the pilot bearing.
What can I do, or have done. I know I'll never go there again, on send anyone there.
Now I know I have to save for a proper rebuilt. I don't trust anyone to do this locally. I think when this have to be done, I'll drive to Blumenthal's. I think I can make it there.
Ilian

 

[Nyoest]

What part was replaced? It's curious that the clutch company picked up the tab if the shop fouled up.

Why didn't they catch the noise/vibration on the test drive? They should obviously know how these drive with hundreds of installs under their belt.

Why didnt you turn around immediately when you knew there was a problem?

Inquiring minds want to know... ... .

 

[andy1]

It's times like this whin I here of problems with shops, is why l won't let any one touch my trucks but me.

 

[joshs93ctd]

at tmorgan1 wouldnt over filling cause problems? i had just acquired an 03 HO and i had replaced the clutch and it too is hard shifting into 2nd at stop lights i am in the middle of changing all fluids to full syn. so how many qts and what weight fluid do i need for it?

 

[GCroyle]

at tmorgan1 wouldnt over filling cause problems? i had just acquired an 03 HO and i had replaced the clutch and it too is hard shifting into 2nd at stop lights i am in the middle of changing all fluids to full syn. so how many qts and what weight fluid do i need for it?

Might want to try this test, it can help determine which direction you need to go, Clutch and release system or transmission.



Engine off, assistant required.

Best to raise the rear wheels so you can freely turn the driveshaft, saftey first.

Select any gear, remember ENGINE OFF.

Push clutch pedal to floor, hold it there.

Try to turn drive shaft.

If it turns, proceede with having your driver slowly bring the pedal up while continuing to rotate the shaft.

Try to determine the initial engagement point from the floor where you feel/hear the disc starting to be compressed.

Ideally you should have some noticable reserve travel before drag begins, like almost 2" varies by clutch part number a bit and MOST definetle varies by efficency of hydraulic release system, air bubbles are your enemy.

 

[TMorgan1]

Josh, I would call Standard Transmission of Ft. Worth, Texas and ask them on your model if it would be the same as my transmission. I believe that we both have the same transmission and they recommend 2 quart overfill. They recommend pulling the shift tower and pouring in from there. It has solved my problem and has lasted past the first long trip. Usually, after a long trip the fluid has to be changed to get it shifting good again. I have tried the factory fluid, the Pennz fluid and the Amsoil overfilled has worked great for me. Shifting into neutral at a stop light to lessen wear on the throwout bearing is possible again and shifting into reverse anytime is so easy. I thought my transmission, clutch, or slave cylinder etc. were the problem and all it was was the fluid. I have no problems at all with shifting!

 

[jeepit]

I changed fluid again with Amsoil. I ran truck up on ramps on drivers side and was able to get 1 more quart in. It is better shifting than before. Amsoil was in for the last 60000 miles. I will change fluid at sooner intervals next time.

 

[joshs93ctd]

ok thanks guys i will try it fluid needs changed in it anyways

 

[Shelby Griggs]

And... a vibration that has bugged me for many thousands of miles is gone. Whodathunk?



A post-mortem on the original damper showed that, even though it look fine, the elastomer (rubber) was intact and in place, it had stopped being elastic. It was almost brittle. As such, it would the damper wasn't a damper anymore. It was just a small flywheel.

I have a vibration that I thought might be a tire or at least speed related, I get a vibration at ONLY 62 MPH, maybe it is actually caused by the engine RPM at that speed. Mine looks OK too, BUT 11 years old now and 240K, maybe I ought to spring for a new one?



SHG

 

[MakeItShake]

Shelby... If it's not too late (though your post was in 2011) check all of your u-joints before going for a new damper. More than once my speed-specific vibrations were worn u-joints. U-joint ~$13... Fluidampr ~$$$.

 

[MakeItShake]

BTW to the OP and others on the main thread... I'm surfing here because I too have ran into a hard shifting problem with my NV5600. I recently upgraded my clutch to a South Bend Con OFE with the flywheel (pilot bearing came installed, as others have mentioned). I had long ago upgraded to the HD hydraulics from South Bend, which are adjustable on the master slave pushrod. At the time of the clutch install, I had 40K on trans oil that came with the truck, so I had no history of the service. I changed the oil to Pennzoil MTL. I have since done searches and found the Pennzoil oil has the same material properties as the Mopar/Texaco oil that came with the truck.



http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/Tex_5600_fluid.pdf



http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Synchromesh-Manual-Trans-Fluid.pdf



After the clutch install, I've had some very slight gear grinding (while moving) and trouble getting into 1st, 2nd, and reverse... . From a standstill. I've tried RPM matching which has helped some. Have been researching all the oils in the forums and have not found much 'wisdom of the masses' evidence to change oils. So for now I'm sticking with the spec oil.



My pedal throw did change with the install (where the clutch engages/disengages in the throw). So, last night I tried adjusting my clutch master throw length. This helped with smoothing the shifting. I need to tune it in more... But figured I'd drop a note on what helped me some. I suspect the changes in clutch & flywheel geometry may have contributed to not fully disengaging (I had thought I noticed a bit of a forward surge when shifting from a stand still one day... But had not looked into it to confirm).

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Shelby... If it's not too late (though your post was in 2011) check all of your u-joints before going for a new damper. More than once my speed-specific vibrations were worn u-joints. U-joint ~$13... Fluidampr ~$$$.

Thanks, not too late, never did do anything, really isn't bad, just notice at certain speeds. Not driving it much lately so if it is parked it doesn't vibrate at all



SHG