Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) plate full forward....not much difference?

[MCharlebois]

i moved the plate full forward and their is not much of a difference,sound right??



thanks marcel

 

[Nyoest]

Well you might not notice it much in the lower gears but once the TC locks it should be a good kick in the arse. If not you need to check if your arm is in need of adjustment. Sometimes they get trapped under the fuel plate instead of following the profile.

 

[Nyoest]

Just noticed your other post. Have you repaired the afc line properly? Without it you will be getting nowhere, slowly.

 

[MCharlebois]

thats what i needed to know,i have read many many of your posts and value your input ..... i drove an 01 for nine years justnew to the 12v

 

[KBurgoyne]

if youre talking about the stock plate moved all the way forward it will get about an extra 15 er 20. you need an aftermarket plate to really feel it plus the new wastegate actuator. just for fun you could take the plate out. on a 160 pump you would gain about 80 by ditching the plate. turning up the fuel screw would make a big difference too. its located under an 8mm allen head bolt on the top of the afc housing. take a flat head screw driver and turn it up 10 or 20 clicks toward the engine to bring the fuel on quicker. then clamp off the rubber part of the wastegate line and go for a drive, and its all free. make sure you mark the location of the housing. a 64th of an inch in adjustment will make a difference.

 

[Nyoest]

if youre talking about the stock plate moved all the way forward it will get about an extra 15 er 20. you need an aftermarket plate to really feel it plus the new wastegate actuator. just for fun you could take the plate out. on a 160 pump you would gain about 80 by ditching the plate. turning up the fuel screw would make a big difference too. its located under an 8mm allen head bolt on the top of the afc housing. take a flat head screw driver and turn it up 10 or 20 clicks toward the engine to bring the fuel on quicker. then clamp off the rubber part of the wastegate line and go for a drive, and its all free. make sure you mark the location of the housing. a 64th of an inch in adjustment will make a difference.

Great advise! You didn't finish though. Lemme see if i can help you out .



If you do what's listed above you will absolutely destroy your transmission and head gasket in short order. And more than likely put more cracks in the head than you can count on both hands.



Do you have a pyrometer? That is the bare minimum requirement for doing much more than sliding the stock plate.

 

[KBurgoyne]

were not talking about powerstrokes here, have a little more faith in the cummins engine. yes the trans would not be friendly toward you, but the head would be fine. its only about 230 horses and as long as the afc stays in the stock spot egts wont get out of control unless the skinny pedal is constantly resting on the carpet.

check out this article:

1995 Dodge Ram 2500: Project Triple Threat - Diesel Power Magazine

 

[fest3er]

You forgot one small item. The torque plate also acts as a rack stop. Without that stop, the rack can move too far and become stuck; that may not be an easy (or cheap) repair. Search the forum (and back issues of the mag); this particular topic has been covered before.

Move the plate full forward. Adjust the AFC housing to minimize smoke. Besides 215 injectors, this is all I did to get a modicum of extra power with my '98 auto. Be prepared to 'blow past' your torque converter clutch's holding power; if ignored, you can burn out your TCC which, clearly, is a fine reason to further BOMB your truck.

 

[MCharlebois]

thanks guys,,i just put gauges in sunday and i understand i need to be careful transmission wise



keep smiling marcel

 

[Bob4x4]

were not talking about powerstrokes here, have a little more faith in the cummins engine. yes the trans would not be friendly toward you, but the head would be fine. its only about 230 horses and as long as the afc stays in the stock spot egts wont get out of control unless the skinny pedal is constantly resting on the carpet.

check out this article:

1995 Dodge Ram 2500: Project Triple Threat - Diesel Power Magazine

230hp (uncontrolled or monitored)on a 94 will be able to peg the pyro and score cylinders :-laf

600lbft of torque is more than enough to wipe out the 47rh in short order as well

 

[MCharlebois]

its a daily driver and i do not tow,i will stick with the stock plate until i have the $$ for a transmission



marcel

 

[JKosten]

230hp (uncontrolled or monitored)on a 94 will be able to peg the pyro and score cylinders :-laf

600lbft of torque is more than enough to wipe out the 47rh in short order as well

OMB, what would you consider too high on EGT's? On my 96 I have done more than that to the pump with stock injectors (but I have a 3" intake horn and 4" exhaust) and my egt probe is where the EGR once lived. I am at 350 at idle, 400-500 while cruising no load, and 600-700 with 3500lbs load at 65mph. I have seen it spike as high as 900-1000 when all the in it for a moment, but then I have to shift so I lose boost and fuel to create heat.



Your thoughts?

 

[Nyoest]

were not talking about powerstrokes here, have a little more faith in the cummins engine. yes the trans would not be friendly toward you, but the head would be fine. its only about 230 horses and as long as the afc stays in the stock spot egts wont get out of control unless the skinny pedal is constantly resting on the carpet.

check out this article:

1995 Dodge Ram 2500: Project Triple Threat - Diesel Power Magazine

If 230 horse were safe for this engine wouldnt cummins have made it that way?



Powerstrokes have nothing to do with this conversation.



I have plenty of faith in the cummins, that's why I own two. I am also a diesel tech and have never pulled a twelve head that didn't have at least SIX cracks. Every head or gasket I've done has been in a young kids truck that followed advice like yours to the letter. They also blow auto transmissions and clutches like they are free.



I have no problem with someone modifying their truck or offering advice to others. I take exception when it is incomplete, dangerous or both. You might know to back out of the throttle when it gets too hot, you can't assume the guy you just told to pull his fuel plate does.



Jkosten your temps are just fine. 1200 degrees is is the safe, "start backing down" zone

 

[JKosten]

If 230 horse were safe for this engine wouldnt cummins have made it that way?

I would say emissions like all other performance killers. Also look at the 215hp motors, same internals just more power.

 

[Nyoest]

I would say emissions like all other performance killers. Also look at the 215hp motors, same internals just more power.

It was more of a mental " get the ball rolling" question than literal. But yes I would say you are correct.

 

[Bob4x4]

OMB, what would you consider too high on EGT's? On my 96 I have done more than that to the pump with stock injectors (but I have a 3" intake horn and 4" exhaust) and my egt probe is where the EGR once lived. I am at 350 at idle, 400-500 while cruising no load, and 600-700 with 3500lbs load at 65mph. I have seen it spike as high as 900-1000 when all the in it for a moment, but then I have to shift so I lose boost and fuel to create heat.



Your thoughts?

Adding more air Helps a ton as I am sure you have seen. 1200 degrees is the common # tossed around as safe. The way additional fuel is added makes a difference too as well as timing.

My 2nd gen can pull my trailer up 8* grades at 80 mph but I wouldn't attempt it with out gauges to be semi sure the temps are in check,even then you need to remember that your Pyro is only an average temp of all the cylinders.

An empty truck is at much less risk since you will be doing some pretty scary speeds by the time the critical temp has been reached for a critical amount of time.

 

[Bob4x4]

If 230 horse were safe for this engine wouldnt cummins have made it that way?



Powerstrokes have nothing to do with this conversation.



I have plenty of faith in the cummins, that's why I own two. I am also a diesel tech and have never pulled a twelve head that didn't have at least SIX cracks. Every head or gasket I've done has been in a young kids truck that followed advice like yours to the letter. They also blow auto transmissions and clutches like they are free.



I have no problem with someone modifying their truck or offering advice to others. I take exception when it is incomplete, dangerous or both. You might know to back out of the throttle when it gets too hot, you can't assume the guy you just told to pull his fuel plate does.



Jkosten your temps are just fine. 1200 degrees is is the safe, "start backing down" zone

A little FYI Cummins had an emission legal(at the time) 230 hp uprate kit. It consisted of an injection pump,injectors,wastegate actuator designed for 28lbs boost. It would install on 94-98 non egr pick-ups. It was very impressive for

600 ftlbs with absolutely no smoke. The downside was of course the price compared to the new at that time TST torque plate pkg price. About 1/5 the price albeit quite a bit more smoke and egt's

 

[MCharlebois]

unlike alot of the kids around i am not about to get a ticket or whatever:-laf



my 01 i drove for 9 years made 497 hp and 960 tq the last time on the rollers



i understand heat,boost and i do have common sense,,,hell i had an edge box on a stock transmission for fifty thousand miles befor i upgraded at 120k and the transmission was still ok :-laf:-laf:-laf



i grew up on a farm in vt where i feel i got a good start understanding machines and dads foot up my *** when i needed it



thanks for all the replies



keep smiling

marcel

 

[KBurgoyne]

i agrre with bob. on the airflow thing. a new high performance air filter would be more noticeable than pushing the stock plate foreward plus it will drop the egts at te same time by eliminating the snorkel. i love my AEM its a 1700 cfm dry filter and was 320 bucks, not bad. AEM Brute Force HD Diesel Intake 21-9210D

i bought that one because of the glowing reviews on evry site that sold it and the tdr forums.

i have a silverline exhaust too, but wouldnt recomend it. it didnt fit right, maybe because of my factory jake brake, but it was too short, and i had to cut a sction of extra pipe and add it to the middle. not a huge deal, but something brand new shouldnt need to be modified to work correctly. it all depends on how mch you wanna put into it. 6 or 700 bucks offilter and exhaust would get you an extra 30-40hp with current fueling and up fuel economy while dropping egt's.

 

[Nyoest]

unlike alot of the kids around i am not about to get a ticket or whatever:-laf



my 01 i drove for 9 years made 497 hp and 960 tq the last time on the rollers



i understand heat,boost and i do have common sense,,,hell i had an edge box on a stock transmission for fifty thousand miles befor i upgraded at 120k and the transmission was still ok :-laf:-laf:-laf



i grew up on a farm in vt where i feel i got a good start understanding machines and dads foot up my *** when i needed it



thanks for all the replies



keep smiling

marcel

Nice! My point was simply you could have been a first timer that got his engine to go Chernobyl in 6. 8 seconds. You obviously are not, but there was no way Kb or I could have know with the information that was presented.