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WCPoe

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I put this in the 4th Gen section because I know a lot of you have stepped up to the 4th Gens from a 3rd Gen.

:)

I'm having a senior mid-life diesel crisis. I like the truck I have now, (see signature, truck only has 63,000 miles), but I would like a 4WD with a manual transmission, possibly to modify with some decent power mods, moderate lift /leveling kit and maybe some slightly larger wheels and tires - nothing too radical. Something like this may prevent me from going off the "deep end" and buying another muscle car as well.

--

Considering finances--->

--

I'm torn between keeping my truck and finding a "heavily used" 5. 9 4WD 6 speed and taking a chance on it being a super money pit. That way if the project goes south I still have my 2WD to fall back on.

----or-----

Stepping up to a later used 6. 7 3rd Gen (nearly impossible to find a manual) maybe limiting mods to the wheels and tires. Probably selling my existing truck if the 6. 7 satisfies the stick shift withdrawal.

----or-----

Sell mine and/or trade mine and maybe order or locate a new 6. 7 4th Gen which is a delimma in itself. ---> and I'm still trying to justify a manual over the new 6 speed auto box. Although down the road after the warranty expired I think a manual would be less expensive to mod in the long run. (I promised the wife there would be no mods on a new unit, at least until the warranty ran out. ) Just for FYI there isn't any diesel emission testing currently in Georgia but I usually keep all my take off parts anyway.

----Here's my observation---->

Around here it sure appears the manual trucks command a premium over the automatics, (both 3rd and 4th Gens), don't you think this trend will continue as the manual trannys are becoming even harder to find on the 4th Gens?



Your opinions are welcome.



:confused:
 
Perhaps the manual brings a premium because of scarcity, but after moving from an NV5600 to the new 68RFE, I personally wouldn't want a manual in a 4th gen truck. But to each his own... .



Rusty
 
Rusty,

Your opinion on the 68RFE seems to be almost unanimous. I guess I need to go test drive the new auto. I have never been all that impressed with the 48RE even after I had it built. It held the power adders well but I didn't have the control I wanted.

Does the 68RFE hold the gears you select? The only control I have over my 48RE is the converter lock up controller and the O/D on and off switch on the end on the shift column. The 48RE would occasionally do the 1-2 gear hunt when moving slow as well.

Thanks for your input.

Bill
 
The +/- switch on the gear selector lever will select the HIGHEST ratio the transmission will use. For instance, if you have it set on 4 (displayed in the EVIC), the 68RFE will cycle through gears 1-4 automatically from a standing start but won't go above 4th.



In the real world, however, if you're slowing down using the exhaust brake function, you can toggle down from 6 to 1 and the 68RFE will downshift each time you select a lower gear (assuming, of course, that such a downshift wouldn't overrev the engine). The torque converter unlocks and the exhaust brake shuts off around 15 MPH or so as you're stopping. If you're in tow/haul mode, though, the harder you brake, the more rapidly the 68RFE will downshift on its own without use of the +/- switch if you're just in the pure automatic mode, so manually downshifting is really optional.



From a standing start, you can toggle up from 1 to 6 and (assuming the RPMs are high enough), the 68RFE will upshift as you select each higher gear. Again, though, in tow/haul mode the raised upshift points work out fine for me when towing, so manually upshifting is optional.



The tow/haul and exhaust brake functions are integrated with the 68RFE, so the torque converter stays locked when the exhaust brake is operating.



At least, that's how mine works - if any changes have been made for 2012 and/or the MaxTow option, I'm not aware of them.



Rusty
 
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Rusty,

Your opinion on the 68RFE seems to be almost unanimous. I guess I need to go test drive the new auto.

Bill



Absolutely!! You should drive one. The 68RFE is night and day better than a 48RE, and with the built in exhaust brake in combination with Tow/Haul, there is no comparison. If I towed a travel trailer or a fifth wheel/gooseneck trailer and/or used my truck more, there would be a new 4th gen dually parked in my garage. :D



Bill
 
After driving my FIL's 4th gen I would go with the 4th gen the only reason is that the other way you would be buying USED and who knows what was done to it. Look at the truck ID's how many do you see that has not had some kind of power booster put on. Sure you or they can take it off but most of the time the damage as already been done and waiting for your wallet to pay for someones fun times. JMO
 
Going to a new 4th generation truck was one of the best things I ever did, I really like everything about it over my previous 2005. I would get a 6 speed automatic, there far better than the old 48RE was, and Mods I don't think you will want any after driving a new one, they have tons of power, and the Federal Emissions standards are changing quickly, once only in California, now about 15-20 States have Diesel inspections, it's only time that all the states will be doing inspections, stay stock and enjoy all the power and the warranty.
 
Thanks for posting

Great info from all of you. I'll try and catch a test drive on a 68RFE after the holidays.

There was an 2011 2500 loaded Laramie advertised by a not too far away dealer about a month back. It listed for around $55,000 but they had an advertied $11,500 discount shown on the ad making the price about $43,500 which I thought was a stellar deal. I hesitated with the indecisions listed above and it sold in short order.

I figure $10,000 or more on a 2011 would be reasonable but what about the 2012's? What discount are you seeing on them. They have been out a while and aren't all the 2012 68RFE's the HO (800 ft/lb)versions now?

:confused:

I appreciate your replies, thanks again.

Bill
 
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