2003 5.9----->6.7 swap

['strokeThis_'07]

Well, my clutch is toast, so now I get to wait on that

It's worn out almost completely, and I don't think the springs are supposed to look like that.
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Here's all the EGR crap removed and cleaned:
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['strokeThis_'07]

03 ECM

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ECM mounting pads are different. 5. 9 on left, 6. 7 on right

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Oil pressure; 5. 9

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and 6. 7. Still a direct connection

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6. 7 alternator mount was slightly wider than the alternator, so I just put the 5. 9 one on there. Also ditched the 6. 7 thermostat housing for the 5. 9 one...

6. 7:

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5. 9:

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['strokeThis_'07]

Temp sensors are different. 6. 7 on left, 5. 9 on right

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Crank sensor is the same (5. 9 on the right)

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As is the cam sensor (5. 9 on top)

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And the FCA (5. 9 on right)

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So here's the 6. 7 with the 03 injector harness and wiring harness mocked up. The factory 6. 7 fuel filter bowl and rail are shown. Everything is connected wiring wise, except the Water In Fuel sensor; WIF is on the front side of the bowl in the 5. 9, and on the bottom on the 6. 7. Also, there is one line from the bowl to the CP3 that isn't lining up, not even close, so I need to figure that out.

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The 03 injector harness plug with the 6. 7 valvecover sitting on it. Ain't happening

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And the two different valvecover spacer designs; 5. 9 followed by 6. 7

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[Prairie Dog]

The 5. 9 alt bracket you have was known to develope cracks and was replaced by one that looks like the 6. 7 you have. Mine was cracked by the time it had 5K on it. If they both hold the alt correctly (or with just a little grinding) then I would use the 6. 7 because I would bet the old sheetmetal bracket is cracked ~in fact, I think I can see the crack location in your pick - it's rusted where they crack. .

Good luck,
Scotty

 

[Andres]

Good writeup, thanks for the pics. I have bookmarked this thread.

 

['strokeThis_'07]

Thanks guys. No crack on the alt. bracket, went and checked it after Scotty mentioned it. I'll have the 6. 7 one still in case it does crack.



Sent the injectors to Exergy yesterday to be tested. Also ordered up a South Bend clutch. Now I need to find a starter; it got torn up when the rod exited stage left

 

[Prairie Dog]

What do you suppose that is laying on top of the piece of cam on the left?
Kinda looks like an oil seal but what is it doing there?


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[rscurtis]

Valve tappet. There's also one on the right side of the picture

 

[Prairie Dog]

Valve tappet. There's also one on the right side of the picture

Ah, ok I see. I guess it was kind of an illusion that it is flatter than it really is. Thx!

 

['strokeThis_'07]

Yep, that's the rear-most tappet. I can look down in the hole and see all sorts of goodies; parts of the rod cap, couple of bolts, the wrist pin snap ring...

 

['strokeThis_'07]

As I posted in another thread on here concerning fitment between the 6. 7 damper and 5. 9 fan pulley, they do indeed contact each other, ever so slightly.

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6. 7 pulley:
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5. 9 pulley:
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You can see the difference in thickness, 1 1/2" for the 6. 7, 1 3/4" for the 5. 9 pulley. So, if you use a 6. 7 damper, you MUST use the 6. 7 fan pulley for adequate belt clearance.

Also, the passenger side engine mount is different, because there is a brace on the 6. 7 for some reason...

6. 7 mount:
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5. 9 mount:
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And the brace:
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And here is where things sit currently
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[Prairie Dog]

Interesting. . I wonder if the brace is just to cancel some vibration or harmonic?
Are there mounting holes on the 5. 9 block to add this brace?

 

['strokeThis_'07]

No bosses for the mount on a 5. 9

 

['strokeThis_'07]

Pics are back up...



Ok, so I got the clutch in, and was about to put the trans in. South Bend supplies a washer to go under the clutch pivot ball to aid in clutch release; of course I snapped that as I tightened it back up. So had to order a new one and got it yesterday. Hope to install trans tomorrow.



Also, I had to reuse the adapter plate from the 5. 9, as the starter boss is thicker on the 5. 9 plate versus the 6. 7 plate. I have no idea if the plate is different on the G56 and 68RFE...



5. 9/NV5600 plate on left, 6. 7 on right:

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5. 9 plate:

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6. 7 plate:

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Also, heard back on my injectors from Exergy; they tested out perfect. So hope to have those in about Wednesday next week, and the truck put together by then minus the valvecover and fuel rail... then drop in injectors, install crossovers, rail, hook up electrical, set lash and fire it up.

 

['strokeThis_'07]

Here she is, all put back together except turbo controller, intake, fan, overflow and shroud.



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I have one wire I can't place; there are two plugs on the ECM. This one comes off the rear harness, the first branch, and has a plug in the middle and an eye on the end:

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I think it grounds to the battery but I obviously overlooked taking a pic of it. Can't find anythine the plug would go to either...





And here's a vid of the failed start:doh:

47a32985. mp4 video by strokeThis_07 - Photobucket



Not only does it not sound or feel right, but Smarty can't connect to the ECM either. Sounds like no compression I think; the injectors didn't want to sit down in the bore very easily, but the cross tubes went in just fine.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I'll take a look at my 03 in the morning but I think I remember a connector like that on the drivers side that was just hanging and not connected to anything. Is there just 1 flat conductor in it? I'll try to locate the other wire too.
I hate to say this but I agree, it sounds like you have zero compression.
Scotty

 

['strokeThis_'07]

I'd appreciate it Scotty. It does look like it hasn't been connected, although it has been sitting for awhile so hard to tell. And yes, just the one connector.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Ok, I think I can see why your ECM is dead. My cell ph is dead now but I will post some pics in a bit.

The loose wire I was thinking of was on a car I traded in

The big ground wire looks like it is attached to the chassis ground that is just above the drivers side batt on the inner qtr panel.

The smaller single wire connector plugs into a wire that is about 7" long and is half red and half blue - the two colors are spliced together and covered in heatshrink (to clarify, there's a short piece of red wire spliced to a short blue wire. looks cheasy but it's stock)). The red end of this wire goes to a small relay-looking thing on the side of the fuse box thats at the front drivers side of the eng compartment. There's a larger red battery cable coming from this relay thingy and going to the drivers side pos batt post.



If you wan't you can PM me and I'll give you my Ph# to call.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Slight correction on the smaller wire. It's hard to imagine it would be this crappy but the wire that is only 7 or 8 " long is spliced twice. So it starts out red from your smaller connector then it's spliced in to a 2" long piece of blue wire and finally, just before the connection at the side of the fise box, it's spliced back into another red wire. And this is stock!!!

 

[Prairie Dog]

Here is what I believe is your smaller connector and the spliced wire that plugs into it.

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Here is the other end that goes into the bottom of that small round termination point (I called it a relay thingy before, it isn't).

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Here is where your ring lug ground wire goes. Mine has the exact same shaped terminal attached to it and it is the very bottom wire attached to this ground point (under the blue wire I added).

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Basically it looks like you may not have either a ground or +12V going to your ECM so this will hopefully help!