twins and nozzles

[timelessconstructionllc]

I finally got my truck paid off so over the next six months I'm gonna save up for twins and nozzles. I'm thinking about going with the dps stocker twin kit, unless anyone knows of a better setup for the money. I only tow about once a week or sometimes once every other week. When I do tow it's a 30 ft gooseneck with anywhere from 4k to 10k pounds. This truck is my daily driver and usually has around 800 pounds in the bed everywhere it goes. So I'm trying to figure out what size nozzles would work best for me with the twins. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[MChrist]

So far, I'm very satisfied and pleased with my ATS Aurora Plus 4000 system. Smarty S06, and worked perfectly with 100% stock fuel system, including stock injectors.
Very responsive, great for towing, 46-48 psi, and no modifications needed to the exhaust to make it fit.

 

[AMcCormick]

I have DDP 90s with a bigger single. The truck hauls *** when you spool her up. I would rather have DDP 50s and compounds. The injectors are cool and all but they use lots of fuel. So I would say either go big or go mild. Meaning go big and race it or go mild and
Crank the smarty when you want to play. I don't really buy the claims of improved mileage with bigger injector tips. I understand the improved spray patterns but you are adding more fuel to burn.

 

[cerberusiam]

The stocker twin kit and a good set of 40-60 HP nozzles is hard to beat for work and play. If you want to make a bit more of a difference add a cam change, springs, and head studs.



That combo should allow excellent power up to about 600 HP for playing and still keep things usable in DD mode. Once you want to go beyond 600 HP it gets spendy and things break a lot easier.

 

[MChrist]

The stocker twin kit and a good set of 40-60 HP nozzles is hard to beat for work and play. If you want to make a bit more of a difference add a cam change, springs, and head studs.



That combo should allow excellent power up to about 600 HP for playing and still keep things usable in DD mode. Once you want to go beyond 600 HP it gets spendy and things break a lot easier.

Cerb, it was recommended to me that if I went to 50 hp injectors, (with my Smarty S-06 and twins) that would put my truck near 55 psi, and would then necessitate head studs and possibly more fuel pump. That's actually the reason I didn't go with bigger injectors. . WAY more $$$ for only a small % gain. (studs, second CP3, injectors, labor... ) would be more than just a few thousand extra.

Now, maybe the info I got was wrong, but I feel safe at 46-48 psi with stock head bolts. If I blow a gasket, then I will definitely go with studs, 50 hp injectors, I'll port the head, install new cam... . etc. But for the "bang for the buck" factor, I would recommend stock injectors.



It's a slippery slope, that one...

 

[cerberusiam]

Cerb, it was recommended to me that if I went to 50 hp injectors, (with my Smarty S-06 and twins) that would put my truck near 55 psi, and would then necessitate head studs and possibly more fuel pump.

Sure, if you run it that hard. The nice thing about the injectors you don't have to crank in a big SW to get some good power in the low and mid ranges. Either drive it by the boost gauge or WG it off at 45-48 psi until the studs and springs.



Normally, one won't push the envelope unless its play time then you just have to be careful. The bulk of the time the operations are going to be under 2500 rpms so high boos tis not really an issue. At least thats the way I drive when working or just DD.