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Ball Joint Installation/The Easy(ier) Way

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Another wiper problem.

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Just put new ball joints in my '04, 2500, 4x4 this weekend.

Tried/Found/Rediscovered a real easy way to install ball joints WITHOUT using a press.

Did this years ago when I was still twisting wrenches for a living.

A couple of hours, or the night before, pack the new ball joints in dry ice. Doesn't take alot (5 lbs is more than enough). Line a small cooler with newspaper put 1/2 the dry ice in then put the ball joints on top of the dry ice then the rest of the dry ice on top of the ball joints and more newspaper on top, close the lid.

After removing the old ball joints cleaning up the ball joint bores, apply a little heat to the steering knuckle where the ball joint is going to be installed (NOT RED HOT just warm) get the ball joint out of the dry ice (GLOVES ON dry ice is -109F degrees BELOW 0). Make sure you have the ball joint oriented in the correct direction (grease fitting) and drop/slide in. Hold it in place for a minute or so until the joint expands/knuckle contracts. No muss, no fuss. :cool:

WARNING: DRY ICE EXTREMELY COLD (-109F DEGREES) GLOVES ARE MANDATORY.
 
I don't know if I would want to be putting strucual metal through such drastic temp changes. I am not a metallurgist by any means. I know heat is used to harden metal in some cases. I just don't know if this is a good idea? I would like to hear from some one that would be more qualified in this.
 
I don't know if I would want to be putting strucual metal through such drastic temp changes. I am not a metallurgist by any means. I know heat is used to harden metal in some cases. I just don't know if this is a good idea? I would like to hear from some one that would be more qualified in this.



That was my thought too Andy, and you still need a press to take the old ones out so id just assume press them in. Freezing bearings, flywheels and such is common practice in most equipment shops, works well.
 
Ive used the ice/heat method to slide bearings onto driveline parts (thru-shafts, ect) in the past, and it does work very well! Never had any failures. . the temp change is not too extreme as long as you are not making the hot part cherry red.
 
I think the rule is you want No more that 300 degree above room temp on things that you are heating. I've helped rebuild some ship reduction gears and almost all of the bearings had to be heated to be slipped into position. It's a one shot deal cool the shaft heat the bearing and work fast to get where it belongs. If you miss your buying a $20,000 bearing race... .
 
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