Poor drivability; 2011 Manual with 3.42 Gears

[AH64ID]

- Power delivery is not smooth, the difference between 1900 rpm and 2100 rpm is significant; this factory hp plots don't show this jump

Normal, it's part of the programming. My 5. 9 is the exact same, I can pull grades in 6th if I am at 2025 rpm, but can't at 1975. 2000 rpms is a big factor in tuning.

- 2nd Gear, full throttle launch at 1500 rpm; truck accelerates mildly, does not break loose tires.

Are you letting the clutch out at 1500 rpms? The clutch in your truck is weak enough as it is, don't intentionally harm it!

Most everyone will let the clutch out fully before adding any throttle, unless load/incline prohibit and if that's the case don't let the rpms go above 1000!

Most also don't run to redline when towing, thou we don't have to. I rarely take it above 2500.

Thinking more about this recently here's my theory on the problem; I think my VGT (Variable Geometry Turbo) isn't working properly or not working at all (stuck). To my understanding its suppose to spool up quickly by employing a small orifice like a small turbo at low rpms and thereby reduce turbo lag... . and then when flow increases open up the orifice to act like a big turbo to make good pressure at higher flow rates.

BTW: The Dealer verified my truck will take a 3. 73 Gear reprogram, they can do at Dealership.

Most likely since they don't have to do anything (again, unless 11+ is different than 03-10). Don't see why it wold be.

 

[AABEN]

Why not change the rear end?? I would have the factory send it to the dealer so they can put it in. You are lucky it is a 2x4 not a 4x4.

 

[HBarlow]

I can't address the acceleration issue because I can't ride in your truck. My heavy C&C weighing around 10k lbs. with a detuned ISB6. 7 producing 305hp and 610 torque accelerates satisfactorily to me but I am accustomed to its performance and not expecting tire spin and blazing acceleration.

Are you familiar with the way other late model Ram w/Cummins engines accelerate? Have you previously owned one?

The latest ISB6. 7 is a very complex engine managed down to the smallest detail by the ECM. It is possible and believable that your VGT could be sooted up and binding but you would have a light showing and codes defining the problem that could be read in the odometer or on a dealer scan tool.

 

[schmalda]

AH64ID



The rpm's I posted are for a full throttle 0-60 run; something I don't usually do but it provides a good baseline. My rpm est. may be off as well. I'll be baselining performance in the next week or so w/video so I'll have better numbers. I got 150k out of my last clutch so I think my techique is good..... typically as you say I add fuel and load to keep rpm ~1k when starting.

 

[Gonzo 1066]

Couldnt you just downshift?? It is a manual transmission after all. . Seems that the "Sweet spot" of the engine will still be there, you just have to adjust your shifting to accomidate the trans. . 5th gear is a direct gear, the strongest in the transmission, just tow in 5th instead of 6th. . When you come to a hill drop from 5th into 4th. . I would assume that driving empty in 6th gear you should get excellent milage.

 

[AH64ID]

Couldnt you just downshift?? It is a manual transmission after all. . Seems that the "Sweet spot" of the engine will still be there, you just have to adjust your shifting to accomidate the trans. . 5th gear is a direct gear, the strongest in the transmission, just tow in 5th instead of 6th. . When you come to a hill drop from 5th into 4th. . I would assume that driving empty in 6th gear you should get excellent milage.

You can, but at low speeds the gearing still makes a big difference, 3. 73's offer 10% more rear wheel torque than 3. 42's.



4th is direct on the 68RFE, 5th and 6th are overdrives.

 

[sag2]

The gearing is not going to make your truck come alive. I have crossed this bridge with customers before and the manual transmission trucks with the tall gears do not have the performance that one would expect coming out of an automatic truck. The auto trucks have the advantage of torque multiplication from the converter that makes them feel far stronger than they are.

My guess is there is nothing wrong with your truck, and your dealer can data record what the turbo and fueling is doing in just a few minutes. Before I went to the trouble of the gear change, I would verify the truck is operating normally. If it is, as I said, the gearing may help, but it isn't going to satisfy you in my opinion.

Did you drive the truck before you purchased it? How did it feel then as compared to now?

 

[NIsaacs]

Why not change the rear end?? I would have the factory send it to the dealer so they can put it in. You are lucky it is a 2x4 not a 4x4.

The OP's truck is a 4x4.



Nick

 

[NIsaacs]

Normal, it's part of the programming. My 5. 9 is the exact same, I can pull grades in 6th if I am at 2025 rpm, but can't at 1975. 2000 rpms is a big factor in tuning.







Why is this? Doesn't your Smarty JR overcome this? My '01 with the Edge EZ feels like a mechanical pump truck.



Nick

 

[AH64ID]

Why is this? Doesn't your Smarty JR overcome this? My '01 with the Edge EZ feels like a mechanical pump truck.



Nick

For some reason 2,000 rpms was a big power number in stock tuning. The Smarty Jr helped quite a bit, but there is still a decent difference ± 2,000 rpms. It seems to run just a bit hotter under 2,000 rpms, and I am not sure that 100 rpms should make that much difference on a spooled turbo.



Playing with the UDC and EFI Live Demo's one can see it's probably due to timing, and something I want to smooth out. The timing actually retards from 1,800 to 2,000, then advances again as soon as your above 2,000.

 

[HOBrian]

I don't want this to come across the wrong way at all, but you said that you had a V10 before that was an animal. That being said are you driving this truck the same way you drove the V10? The V10 is a higher rpm engine when compared to the diesel.

Again, just want to throw some ideas out there and don't want to come off as a jerk. I hope this all works out for you in the end!!

 

[rscurtis]

What I find interesting is that John Holmes in the latest issue of the TDR is singing the praises of his 2012 auto with 3. 42 gears. Perhaps the extra 150# of torque is the difference.



If that's the case, there's almost no point in buying a stick any more.

 

[HBarlow]

I don't agree with John Holmes, I have no interest in a 3. 42 gearset, but I do agree with you in your last comment. The new 6 speed automatics simply offer too many advantages to use a manual transmission any longer.

The G-56 aluminum case is known to be marginal, the transmission offers fewer gear ranges and less flexibility than the automatic, the engine has to be detuned to use the manual, and the dual mass flywheel is simply a failure waiting to occur. Every TDR member who owns one, tows with it, and has accumulated a few miles is experiencing failure and replacing the DMF with a one piece flywheel from SouthBend Clutch.

I'm as old and stubborn as anyone, probably even more, but after driving one DMF/G-56 in late '05 I ordered a 48RE and now have an Aisin. I have no interest in a manual transmission any longer.

 

[Nyoest]

For some reason 2,000 rpms was a big power number in stock tuning. The Smarty Jr helped quite a bit, but there is still a decent difference ± 2,000 rpms. It seems to run just a bit hotter under 2,000 rpms, and I am not sure that 100 rpms should make that much difference on a spooled turbo.



Playing with the UDC and EFI Live Demo's one can see it's probably due to timing, and something I want to smooth out. The timing actually retards from 1,800 to 2,000, then advances again as soon as your above 2,000.

More than likely it's the oems attempt at keeping a driveline in it. My transmission hates anything under 1,900 in the 96.

 

[rrnut-2]

Sounds like it may not be all gears. Reading the op's description of accelleration, my truck, '10, manual, 4X4, will spin the tires, in 2wd, in 2nd gear with no problem. I have to be careful with that, it justs cost me money in tires. Acceleration in all gears, not towing of course, is impressive.

 

[JRS]

When I ordered my 2010 with a manual and 3. 73 gears, it arrived at the dealer with 3. 42 gears. The salesman drove me over to the other side of the lot to pick up some free diesel. I started looking for the build sheet and found it tucked in the back door pocket. I pointed it out to him so he took me back to his office. We started checking and he simply said, "well the truck is not available with 3. 73 gears". His mouth dropped when I opened my briefcase and pulled copies of all the emails between his boss and myself. I pointed to one email where I specifically asked his boss if the truck would come with 3. 73 gears and the return email from his boss assuring me it would. Well he disapeared for about 15 mins and came back and said they would change out the R&P to 3. 73. I told him they would have to change out both R&P's since it was 4wd. He agreed and handed me a form saying they owed me 3. 73 R&P's. He told me to drive the truck home and they would call me when the new R&P's came in. Well I was born at night, but not last night. I told him to call me a cab. He seemed shocked that I didn't trust them. I also pointed out that I had not driven the truck (he drove it to the back lot for diesel) nor had it left the lot. He had the receptionist call me a cab and I left. 5 days later I picked up the truck. While I was waiting for the gears to be changed out I had calculated what the speed should be based on transmission gear, R&P ratio and rpms. After I picked it up, I immediately got on the freeway and made sure they actually put 3. 73 gears in it. All the math worked out.

 

[HBarlow]

JRS,

You are a wise and careful man. That is the only way to be sure you'll get what you paid for with some dealerships.

 

[RVTRKN]

The G-56 aluminum case is known to be marginal, the transmission offers fewer gear ranges and less flexibility than the automatic, the engine has to be detuned to use the manual, and the dual mass flywheel is simply a failure waiting to occur. Every TDR member who owns one, tows with it, and has accumulated a few miles is experiencing failure and replacing the DMF with a one piece flywheel from SouthBend Clutch.



I'm as old and stubborn as anyone.

I was wondering when you were going to start the bashing of the G56, and yes you are certainly stubborn. :-laf



OP, you might want to have the tech see if its cycling through the regens properly. See my sig, when in regen it is a DOG, when RPM's are below 2000 it runs like a dog, and over 2000 RPM's before I shift, it will take off like a bat out of hell. If I'm not careful when shifting over the the 2000 RPM mark it feels like the throttle is sticking when engaging the clutch. The original program did not have any issues, it only showed up after a computer update performed by Dealer. It is so bad, that I took it in to the dealer, and the tech changed out the throttle position sensor with same results. Then when the truck went into regen again, I took it immediately to the same tech and went on a test drive with the trany tech and the original service tech, and connected to the computer. They confirmed the truck was in regen and I just had to live with it. When not in regen, it is powerful (not fast) and I believe it runs like it should.



On another note, I ordered my truck with the rear folding flat seat system (don't remember the exact name now) and Dodge deleted it when it was built. When I asked were it was before I paid for it, the Dealer stated he contacted Dodge and that they had deleted it from the the trucks, and they reserve the right to make any changes. The Dealer would not help me and offered to sell me one for a 06 MY truck for $1200, I found one on eBay for $200.



Hope things work out for you.

 

[HBarlow]

I was wondering when you were going to start the bashing of the G56, and yes you are certainly stubborn. :-laf

OP, you might want to have the tech see if its cycling through the regens properly. See my sig, when in regen it is a DOG, when RPM's are below 2000 it runs like a dog, and over 2000 RPM's before I shift, it will take off like a bat out of hell. If I'm not careful when shifting over the the 2000 RPM mark it feels like the throttle is sticking when engaging the clutch. The original program did not have any issues, it only showed up after a computer update performed by Dealer. It is so bad, that I took it in to the dealer, and the tech changed out the throttle position sensor with same results. Then when the truck went into regen again, I took it immediately to the same tech and went on a test drive with the trany tech and the original service tech, and connected to the computer. They confirmed the truck was in regen and I just had to live with it. When not in regen, it is powerful (not fast) and I believe it runs like it should.

On another note, I ordered my truck with the rear folding flat seat system (don't remember the exact name now) and Dodge deleted it when it was built. When I asked were it was before I paid for it, the Dealer stated he contacted Dodge and that they had deleted it from the the trucks, and they reserve the right to make any changes. The Dealer would not help me and offered to sell me one for a 06 MY truck for $1200, I found one on eBay for $200.

Hope things work out for you.

More reasons to avoid the manual transmission Ram.

My truck with six speed Aisin runs normally during regen as it does when not in a regen cycle and I have gauges will clearly indicate when it is in regen mode.

What I posted about the DMF/G-56 manual is true and accurate. Whether you wish to read it is your decision to make.

 

[RVTRKN]

Well I guess your truck is one bad *** truck, but that is not what the OP's problem is, you can drive your truck with TCM determining how it drives. Even if my DMF fails I still prefer it over any auto.