Guns, Bows, Shooting Sports, and Hunting adventures in reloading

[KBurgoyne]

mostly nosler 180 ballistic silvertip and accubond.

definately most bullets will be in the 180-200 range.

 

[HHhuntitall]

I've shot some 180 Noslers, myself. I really like the 210 Bergers, too. Usually, I prefer the heavier bullets. I've had great luck with IMR 4831 and 7828. The rifles usually have their own preferences, but the load I have with 180 Noslers that seemed to work in both rifles pretty well is 71gr of 4831, using Fed 215 primers... ... Hmm, that may be H 4831, not IMR, but I can't remember... . I've also used 75gr of IMR 7828 and 73gr of IMR 4350... . The latter was not very accurate, but it pushed the 180s over 3040fps!! The 7828 was fairly accurate, IIRC. Also, remember these loads of mine are pretty hot loads worked up over time with fire-formed brass, so they may be too hot for your rifle... . Always back off 10% to start out... ... If you don't have as much freebore as I do, which reduces your OAL, then it will build a lot more pressure.

 

[KBurgoyne]

im not really sure how much freebore it has. ive read that the 700 action can chamber anything up to 3. 560-3. 590 depending on model. the magazine on mine is hinged floorplate, and can hold up to 3. 675 with wiggle room. i doubt it has that much freebore though.



what was your most accurate load.

 

[AHofner]

I don't want to hi-jack this thread, but after following it for a good while, this seems like the best place to post this. My reloading book says that I need to use a nylon brush to clean the inside of the casing before I reload it. Should I use any solvents (thinking Hoppe's) with the brush, or would the nylon brush do a good enough job of cleaning out the residue? Long story short; how clean does the inside of the casing need to be? I used "Never Dull" on the outside of the casing to polish it up. The brass will not be tumbled.



Thanks,



Andrew

 

[GHarman]

AHofner, If you have case lube inside the case neck, I would use alcohol on a plastic brush.

Just carbon buildup? I prefer to tumble my fired brass in hot soapy water with BB's. Rinse in hot clear water and dry the cases, usually inside an oven at 200* for a few hours. Works great. Yes you get detergent discoloring but that is not an issue, for me. Clean brass is the goal.

If you use the bore solvent on a brush to clean the case necks, just make sure there is no residue left in the case when you reload it, or you will have a potential missfire!

Any other questions? Ask Away! We are all here to help a fellow shooter and reloader.

GregH

 

[KBurgoyne]

please feel free to hi-jack the post whenever you like. would a walnut BB mix to clean out the cases. im using corn cob right now and want something with more grit to really clean things up. the outsides stay very clean after fireing, the insides not so much. i have a brush as well for the neck, and a small steel brush for the primer pockets.

 

[GHarman]

Havent tried that! I do know that walnut shells are oily as compared to corn cob/husk media. The hot water and detergent softens the carbon residue and the bb's are just agitators. Been using this method for 3 decades or more. It is labor intensive! The new Stainless Steel pins do work better than the bb's especially if you decap the fired cases before the tumbling process. They even get down into the primer pockets!

GregH

 

[KBurgoyne]

thought i would toss this up because the results were just so pretty. the bullets are hornady . 451 cal. xtp's. the jacket is bonded to the core so at moderate speeds instead of mushrooming, they flower. both weighed 200. 3 grains out of the box, and 200. 6 grains after recovery. . one expanded to . 718 and the other to . 740, fired at a bucket full of sand. as great as they perform, they are also pretty cheap. ive used them for 45, 44, and 45-70.

 

[GHarman]

. 45/70? Which bullet are you using? GregH

 

[KBurgoyne]

the ones in the picture are 45 auto, but ive used the 300 grain hp's for the 45/70. i shot the 300s at an 10in thick stack of magazines and books duck taped together, and one shot blew them apart, and that was a trap door level load

 

[HHhuntitall]

Iosso case cleaner is the best carbon cutter I've used in a while... . I used it on some pistons and valves, too!! Works really well, you just have to be sure to rinse them really well to keep them from corroding. I also use tumbling media extensively, especially on my match brass. If it removed the carbon well enough, I don't wash with Iosso. Crushed Walnut shells leave a finer finish, IMO, but I normally use treated corn cob media due to availablility. That and I can usually get it pretty cheap from Cabela's..... I gotta buy something with my Club Points!!



I've seen the BBs used by a lot of guys, too, but the labor intensive part is what turns me off... . I usually just leave them in the tumbler another hour, and that works great. I've been wanting to try the ultrasonic cleaners with some Iosso cleaner. They can be had cheap from Harbour Frieght, these days... .

 

[KBurgoyne]

anybody have a good source for nickel coated brass. or a decent collection that they're dying to part with.

 

[HHhuntitall]

For what? Do you WANT to scratch your chamber?!?!? What little of that crap I have, I only use it because I got it free... ... .

 

[KBurgoyne]

ive never heard that it beats up the chamber. i thought it was slicker so it chambered and extracted easier, and is easier to work with when resiseing. please enlighten me.

 

[HHhuntitall]

The nickel is harder, so ANY dirt introduced to the chamber is pressed into the chamber walls. Then when extracted, it files it's way out. Regular brass is much softer, so when fired, the dirt is actually pressed into the brass walls, so when extracted it is retracted into the brass and not forced out into the chamber wall. Nickel plated is also much more brittle so you don't get as many fireings. The primary reason it's used is for corrosion resistance and appearance. It's much more resistant to corrosion, such as in a leather belt loop, as well as nicks and dings often found on regular brass from cycling in magazines..... Other than that, I see no benefits. The match chambers I cut in all my rifles don't take to it too well... . but perhaps, I'm anal. NO SHOCKER THERE!!! :-laf

There was the idea that some of the nickel plating would make it onto the bullet, and then down the bore where it could cause some premature barrel erosion..... I've never noticed that, but I have seen chambers scuffed and scratched excessively from nickel brass. And shooting 10 rounds isn't gonna do that, either. Just when you work 100rnds a year over the next 10 years or so..... Or in the case of a non-chromed AR-15 barrel, it can be destroyed in a day or two, especially in dusty conditions..... Then you lose positive extraction, your gun jams repeatedly, you through it down, and take a trusty AK or your 1911 to finish the work... . Ask Gharm or any of these older guys about throwing an old M16 away!!! :-laf The newer models are definitely less finicky, mostly due to improvements in metal and ammo... ... anyway.



I see lots of guys that load nickel brass for defense rounds to identify load differences, and some that just load it because "it's pretty. " But the first time you have to rechamber and set a barrel back because of chamber gouging, you'll not like the nickel crap, either.....



OH, and then you'll get the occasional BS about how Nickel is positively extracted and used for dangerous game..... hmm, when was the last time Weatherby loaded ALL their ammo with Nickel brass?!?!?

 

[GHarman]

HH, Man, I can tell you about the original M-16's! Its where I got my sour taste for them, back in 68'-69'! (No that wasnt 1868:-laf, Young wipper snappers, no respect#@$%!:-laf)

I went through 4, M-16's! absolute J U N Q U E! I spelled it that way cause they were expensive and the manufacturers did their field tests on the battlefield at the cost of human lives, with little or no instruction or knowledge passed down from the manufacturer about fouling of the gas tube and the propensity for the fouling build up in the receiver after a short engagement. Inaccuracy and a host of other problems. If all you had to do was carry it. The M-16 met that criteria with flying colors!!

The Stoner 66 weapons system was fielded, side by side, issued also to Marine Units. The Stoner 66 was superior to the M-16 (both designed by Eugene Stoner). However the Manufacturer that owned the M-16 patents had more pull with Uncle Sam!

GregH

 

[BIGNASTY]

Greg

Weren't the first M 16 from Armalite dont know if that was Armalites designation. Lady Bird Johnson owned a bunch of stock in Armalite and HOW WOULD THAT LOOK to win a gov. contract. so it was sold to colt or bought by colt so they could make money off the POS.









ArmaLite M-15A4CB MidLength Upper Receiver ArmaLite Gas Block Sight USGI M16 ...

 

[BILLUA]

HH, Man, I can tell you about the original M-16's! Its where I got my sour taste for them, back in 68'-69'! (No that wasnt 1868:-laf, Young wipper snappers, no respect#@$%!:-laf)

I went through 4, M-16's! absolute J U N Q U E! I spelled it that way cause they were expensive and the manufacturers did their field tests on the battlefield at the cost of human lives, with little or no instruction or knowledge passed down from the manufacturer about fouling of the gas tube and the propensity for the fouling build up in the receiver after a short engagement. Inaccuracy and a host of other problems. If all you had to do was carry it. The M-16 met that criteria with flying colors!!

The Stoner 66 weapons system was fielded, side by side, issued also to Marine Units. The Stoner 66 was superior to the M-16 (both designed by Eugene Stoner). However the Manufacturer that owned the M-16 patents had more pull with Uncle Sam!

GregH

The USMC still had those in 1985 when I went through OCS. They were the biggest pieces of crap that I have ever shot. I thought it was just due to the age of them. Didn't realize they had come from the factory that way 20 some odd years ago.



S/F

 

[KBurgoyne]

HH, Man, I can tell you about the original M-16's! Its where I got my sour taste for them, back in 68'-69'! (No that wasnt 1868:-laf, Young wipper snappers, no respect#@$%!:-laf)

I went through 4, M-16's! absolute J U N Q U E! I spelled it that way cause they were expensive and the manufacturers did their field tests on the battlefield at the cost of human lives, with little or no instruction or knowledge passed down from the manufacturer about fouling of the gas tube and the propensity for the fouling build up in the receiver after a short engagement. Inaccuracy and a host of other problems. If all you had to do was carry it. The M-16 met that criteria with flying colors!!

The Stoner 66 weapons system was fielded, side by side, issued also to Marine Units. The Stoner 66 was superior to the M-16 (both designed by Eugene Stoner). However the Manufacturer that owned the M-16 patents had more pull with Uncle Sam!

GregH

ive always been told that old age and tretchery can overcome youth and skill. age is only a number unless you're talking about a clinton. the clinton women age much faster than time naturally progresses:-laf.

 

[KBurgoyne]

if nickel is as crappy as you say i will use what little i have sparingly and check the chamber often. i have faith in the remington though. it has a coating on all the metal parts that measures 80 on the rockwell hardness scale. D2 tool steel measures 62. your pocketknife is between 50 and 60. standard untreated barrels are between 30 and 35.