Archived 98 12v CTD won't turn over

[BlameCandida]

My 1998 5-speed 12v CTD isn't turning over. I had a problem back in October where the alternator went out and I replaced it, and then a few days later the fuel shutoff solenoid went out. I put in a manual PTO cable in its place. When I replaced the alternator, I had the batteries and starter checked out too. The starter was last replaced in summer 2009, and the batteries shortly before the alternator.



Now when I try to start it, I just get a long crank, but it doesn't turn over. I looked at the battery terminals, and they appear to be okay. I drove the truck home last night, and tonight is the first time since then that I've tried to start it.

 

[SRadke]

I'm confused. You "get a long crank but it doesn't turn over. " Does this mean it cranks but doesn't fire or it doesn't crank at all?

 

[BlameCandida]

When I turn the key, the starter makes it usual cranking starter noise, but the engine does not fire. I only hold the key for a few seconds, as I do not want to burn up the starter.

 

[SRadke]

OK, it cranks but doesn't fire. First, be certain you fuel shutoff cable is working correctly and did not somehow become unattached. If you're good there, prime the fuel system as if you've just changed the fuel filter and see if it starts. I'm guessing you just lost prime. This commonly happens to 12 valves when the rubber return lines get old and crack. It's worse if you park it nose high.

 

[04blackcherry]

I'm not sure about the '98, but it seems I heard about sucking air thru a melted fuel heater connection on 2nd gens.

 

[Sticks]

I'm not sure about the '98, but it seems I heard about sucking air thru a melted fuel heater connection on 2nd gens.

Been a while since I worked on one, but IIRC that was on the older versions (up through '94 or '96).



Simple check if you do have the LP mounted heater. Disconnect the heater plug (if you can), and if is wet, it's leaking and needs replaced.

 

[BlameCandida]

Yesterday, all it took was for someone else to try starting it a few hours later, and it fired right up. Today, I'm back where I started. It cranks, but doesn't fire. The shutoff cable is working correctly, and I primed it with the rubber prime button. No luck.

 

[tp0d]

Try putting 3-5psi of air pressure on the fuel system at the tank fill connection. This will cause any air leaks on the suction side to leak fuel. Then you know where to fix.

good luck

-j

 

[DODGEDADDIE]

My starting issues are a little differant,,I turn the key an nothing happens,,no click ,,no grone NOTHING.
I let up on the clutch an pushed it down harder ,,and again nothing,
I kept doing this . . clutch up ,,key off.
Finally it took !!!?
Is there a switch/contact from the clutch pedal to the key?

THANKS

98 12-valve (198,000 miles),,

 

[Sticks]

My starting issues are a little differant,,I turn the key an nothing happens,,no click ,,no grone NOTHING.
I let up on the clutch an pushed it down harder ,,and again nothing,
I kept doing this . . clutch up ,,key off.
Finally it took !!!?
Is there a switch/contact from the clutch pedal to the key?

THANKS

98 12-valve (198,000 miles),,

There is a simple contact switch on the push rod to the master cylinder (under the dash) from the clutch pedal/arm.

 

[DODGEDADDIE]

Is this switch "SERVICEABLE",,meaning adjustment or cleaning ,etc?
Or it works or not ,,and get a new one??

THANKS FOR THE HELP

 

[Sticks]

Technically no. You may be able to disassemble it [depending on your skill level], clean, tweak the contacts, and reassemble - you may destroy it in the process as well.

First things first, use an ohm meter to verify that it is the source of your problems.

 

[DODGEDADDIE]

thanks for the INFO,,I'll get on it over the weekend