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Trailer Wiring Relays

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Wilson Electronics Cell Site... Amp... (long)

Will this trailer work.

RodMorris

TDR MEMBER
I'm going to set up my wiring to the 7 pole plug with an 8 guage hot wire and use relays, as has been mentioned here before. Where is a good source for the relays and circuit breakers?



Thanks,
 
I always use delcity.net for all my relays, connectors, shrink tube etc... I like their metal butt connectors and their adhesive heat shrink tubing... . the heat shrink tubing has an adhesive in the center that melts with the heat to shrink the tube... thus you end up with a sealed water proof connection...

Hope this helps... BTW their 20 amp DC relays (might be 30 amp) are very inexpensive... I've been using their goods for 12-14 years and have never had to replace one... BTW make sure you mount them someplace where they can't fill with water... they quit when their full of water and can freeze...

Hope this helps...
 
I have bought them from NAPA in the past. I think you'll want a continuous duty relay for the hot line back to the trailer. This will be your trailer battery and lighting supply source and when an RV trailer is hooked up will be drawing current much of the time.
 
I used a continuous duty relay and 8-gauge wiring for years to charge my Lance camper batteries and for running the fridge on 12-volts while traveling. I discontinued using it when Lance began installing automatic battery separators in their campers. It's probably in my shop somewhere in one of my electrical supply junk boxes.

http://www.delcity.net/store/SPST-12V-85A-Grounded-Continuous-Solenoid/p_790161

Bill

I have used a similar solenoid for my trailer charge circuit for many years, I think I had the same one on my 93 Dodge.

To OP the trailer running lights on my 2001 Dodge get their power from the trailer relay under the hook in the panel there. The head light switch in park and headlight position pulls this relay. It is powered from the 40 trailer relay that provides power to:

1. Trailer Running lights.
2. Brake Controller plug under the dash
3. Charge circuit to the trailer.

So I opened the charge circuit to go through the solenoid, and run the brake controller on a separate lead from the battery with a 30A circuit breaker inline. Charge Solenoid is only picked from truck run voltage, and drops in accessory position.

SNOKING
 
I won't be pulling an RV, but I do have a dump trailer, and might hook up the power to the batteries that power the dump. Than again, I might not, and just put those batteries on a charger every once in a while.

So, I'm thinking I need a continuous duty solenoid for the 8 guage wire from the battery. Then I need a separate circuit breaker (modified reset?) and relay for each of the 7 wires to the trailer, a circuit breaker mounting bracket - and some kind of waterproof box to mount them all in. Does that sound about right? What should I use for the waterproof box?

I did just order a fifth wheel/goose neck wiring harness that plugs into the factory wiring. I think I can cut into that wiring with the relays and not have to cut the factory wiring any where.
 
The start draw for a hydraulic pump for a dump trailer is close to 120 amps... at least the one I own draws that... we've run a second line, 6 gauge welding cable through a disconnect like what is used on an electric forklife... purchased from delcity.net... . as we connect to the trailer we plug in the trailer plug and the disconnect... the disconnect powers up the battery and charges it as we move the truck/trailer around and if trailer battery doesn't have enough current to run the pump the heavy cable to the truck batteries will handle the rest of the needs of the trailer...

Hope this helps... .
 
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