EU2000i carb issues

[Berrigan]

After dealing with a gummed up carb this weekend on my Honda I found I was able to get the main jet out to clean it but the low speed needle jet had a cap on it that prevented me from removing it. I didnt want to damage anything so I didnt use too much force. Does anyone know how to get that jet out? Thanks Bill

 

[AH64ID]

I have never had to remove mine to clean it. I just use a lot of carb cleaner, and pull the main out.

I do use compressed air to blow the carb cleaner thru all the passages.

You should be good, as this level of cleaning has always worked wonders on a gummed up carb on my 2000's.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Had the same prob on my Yamaha Gen I run them out of fuel and thats how I store it but Son in his haste didn't run it out of fuel and it was stored with fuel in carb. I pulled the Jet thats easy to get to and the bowl drain and shot WD40 in and then some carb cleaner put bowl drain and jet back in open the fuel cut off/on back open cranked it a few time and it ran fine. Fuel that came out of the bowl drain looked nasty let it run for a hour and ran it out of fuel to store.

 

[Berrigan]

I have never had to remove mine to clean it. I just use a lot of carb cleaner, and pull the main out.



I do use compressed air to blow the carb cleaner thru all the passages.



You should be good, as this level of cleaning has always worked wonders on a gummed up carb on my 2000's.

That also worked for me. I was just woundering if that jet was removable. It seems to run fine now.

 

[jhenderson]

I don't know about your generator, but modern chainsaws have limiting caps on the high and low speed fuel-air screws. They are plastic and can be removed by prying them off with a small screwdriver or cutting carefully with side cutting pliers. I remove them from every new saw I purchase.

 

[Tractorat]

I always stored my lawn mower and generators with gas in them. Took a couple of pulls (instead of just one) to get started in the spring (or winter as the case may be), but never had a problem. Then, several years ago, lawn mower wouldnt start in the spring, and one of my generators wouldnt start on a hunting trip. This went on for about 3 years or so. Then I found where I could get gas without ethanol for my car. Now the car runs just like brand new. Put some in the lawn mower and generators, and they run a smooth as silk. So, for the last couple of years Ive gone back to my old habits of storing them with gas in them. But now they start right up again, just like in the old days.

For one thing, the pure gas stores better and lasts longer than ethanol. But when it runs, its running on just gas, not gas and for all intents and purposes, rubbing alcahol.

I think the web site is www.pure-gas.org. It will tell you where you can find the pure gas locally. It costs more than what you get at your local shell. But it makes up for it in mileage and performance. Lawn mowers and gens run better.

I dont know if it addresses your problem or not, but it might help to keep the jets cleaner.

 

[Blu-meanie]

I run Sta-Bil in all my gas stuff and keep the gas tanks full. Sometimes they sit for 6 months, no problems.

 

[MChrist]

Sta-Bil here, too. Never had a gummed up carb. My leaf vacuum sits for 11 months every year since I bought it in 1995. Never gummed up. Our gasoline has "up to 10% ethanol".

 

[mwilson]

I run Sta-Bil in all my gas stuff and keep the gas tanks full. Sometimes they sit for 6 months, no problems.

Sta-bil and tanks full for me as well. No trouble since I started treating every gas can that I have.



Big Generator, Snow Blower, Lawn Mower, Weed Whackers, Boat, Honda EU2000i all full of gas at all times and start on first pull. Plus 20 gallons of spare gas treated as well.



I'm a believer in Sta-bil and besides, I don't want to fill the Genset in my dark garage when the power goes out before starting it on a -10 below windy evening. I just want to pull the starter cord, have it start right up, plug it into the outlet on the wall, transfer the power and roll it outside. Shut overhead door, Done... .....



Mike.

 

[Berrigan]

This jet has a cover that looks like its made of aluminum and pressed on. It has a wing on one side that stops it from spinning any more than about 90 degrees. I tried to pull this cover off with no luck. The gen has been stored dry for about 2. 5 years. Previous fuel had stabil in it. I drained the fuel tank and carb per Honda specs. After 2. 5 years I filled with fresh fuel treated with stabil. It started and ran fine. A week later I started fine but surged up and down. I gave it about half choke on a warm engine and it smoothed out. That told me it was lean. I pulled the float bowl and could see by the design that the bowl drain cant empty the bowl completely. The bottom of the bowl had some crude but not too bad. I cleaned it and the main jet. The low speed jet couldnt be removed so I sprayed carb cleaner through it as best I could and blew air through everything. I runs and idles fine now. I think the fresh fuel after a week loosened up some crude and sent it to the jets where it partially plugged them. My take on this whole thing is that Stabil does lengthen fuel storage time but any fuel that does evaperate is going to leave crude and deposits behind that will cause problems. I think I should store it full of treated fuel (dont drain anything) and run it at lease every 90 days or so. Your thoughts would be appriciated.

 

[AH64ID]

I use Amsoil Gasoline Stabilizer in all of my equipment fuel now, and have had no issues with fuel.

A sure sign you need to clean the carb on a EU2000i is when the choke is required on a warm engine.

 

[jhenderson]

Try to cut off the tab that prevents turning the screw. Same as new saws, except for being alum. I'm sure it is pressed on,but you prob will bend the screw trying to pry it off. Try a good pair of dykes.

 

[Blu-meanie]

When my equipment needs the choke to run smoothly, I drain the fuel bowl and they usually run smooth. On my bigger stuff, I added a fuel filter and that seems to have solved the need to drain the fuel.

 

[Berrigan]

Try to cut off the tab that prevents turning the screw. Same as new saws, except for being alum. I'm sure it is pressed on,but you prob will bend the screw trying to pry it off. Try a good pair of dykes.

That just might work. The next time it needs cleaning I will try that.



Do you all agree that "fuel evaperation" (in a carb, tank, fuel pump, fuel line) can be as much of a problem as old fuel?

 

[FJfonda]

WD 40 cuts the normal, non corroded deposits. On some engines I have pulled the gas intake off and filled the bowl with WD-40, cranked over with the choke on to saturate the interior of the carb, let is sit an hour and start with a quick shot of starting fluid. I have not tried this on my EU2000i as have not experienced a problem yet. Of course, this will not work if corrosion has set in.



For stabilizer I have been using Stabil, first the red and now the newer Marine blue stuff. I put in all of my equipment by always including in the 5 gal can fill ever time, (store 35 gals for the winter generator use), boat 200 gals, and summer use Ranger PU. I use the mixture on the label for long term storage, so far it has worked very well. As well ---- anything that has a shut off valve between the tank and carb gets shut off and run dry. The EU2000i has a tank vent shut off that, when new, allowed me to run the carb dry. The last 6 yrs or so vent must be leaking by a bit preventing the vacuum generation needed to run the carb dry so I have been storing wet.

I don't run periodically just to move gas on anything, and have not had any problems.

One other note, I fill all cans/tanks/equipment/boat/truck before storage. The lack of air in the fuel tank prevents any possibility of condensation on the tank walls which will contaminate the ethanol based gas.

 

[wcoomes]

I always ran Sta-bil in my boat but when I bought my Honda Generators, Sta-bil did not work near as well for me. Had to take both in and the mechanic cleaned both carbs and recommended Sea Foam. Never a problem since.

 

[AMink]

I haven't had issues with my eu2000 but I do wish there was a true fuel shutoff so you could run it dry. I always store my stuff dry (when possible) or try and start them once every month or so in the off season. I also use Stabil and it seems to work. I have a 1993 Evinrude 15 hp 2 stroke that gets fired up every 2 years or so and it ALWAYS starts! Blows me away.

 

[crispyboy]

For my small engines I mix up a mulligan of fuel with sta-bil, cheap carb cleaner and a shot of lead additive because of an old Gravely engine that I still use. I still use the walk behind for mowing and plowing the garden.