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Alarm problem

06 Center Console will no open

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I just had a new wireless control module installed on my 2006 Ram by a dealer. The dealer tells me that my old keys will not work any longer and I have to buy new keys. This does not sound right to me.

Has any one else run into this problem?

If so do you really have to buy new keys?

Why can't you reprogram the old keys?



thanks



Puller
 
The new module will require keys coded to match. I don't know if existing keys can be recoded to match. Perhaps a dealer tech will comment. I do know from experience that an ordinary non-coded key will not work.
 
if you have 2 working keys then you can re-add your old keys (as long as the cut on the key is the same-aka old and new keys turn in the ignition)

your owners manual tells you exactly how. . I have 5 different coded keys to my truck. one has no buttons and is water proof, which is my primary key due to working with water daily. its also cheaper than the key with the buttons.
 
The dealer may have messed up during the repair. Why did the dealer replace the WCM? Was he doing a flash and the flash crashed without being able to recover? Ask them if they had a P0633 fault code. The P0633 is there to keep the technician from messing up further. If the technician erases the code, they can do more damage, ie, new keys and possible new PCM.
The simple answer is your old keys could have been reused IF the dealer did the replacement properly. That involves replacing the WCM and doing the WCM replace routine to transfer the secret key back up copy from the PCM to the new WCM. Do it in this order and your keys are still good. Crash the PCM during a flash, and erase the P0633 and then do a WCM replace routine and you just ruined your WCM because you transferred blank or corrupt secret key data to a perfectly good WCM.
It goes way deeper than this, but in the wrong or inexperienced hands you get exactly what you have. If the dealer blew the routine, he owes you two new keys (or fobs) if you had two before.
 
The batteries were dieing over night.

First they said that the alternator was bad (I did not think so) but I said replace it $500. 00 took the truck home dead batteries again.
Took it back and they said now the WCM was draining the batteries another bill for $250,00 plus another for $116. 00 for an extra key.

It is at this point I am feeling ripped off by a bad diagnose. And being screwed big time.

puller
 
This is from the service info. This mentions replacing the PCM first, but ignore the PCM replacement and the instructions are still correct to program the customer keys to the new WCM. I would take a copy of this procedure and have the Service Manager pull it up for himself. I would at least ask for the money back for the key, and get a second one if you originally had two.
The part you are interested in is step 6.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE (WCM) VERIFICATION


For a complete wiring diagram, refer to the Wiring Information.

The Sentry Key remote Entry Module (SKREEM) is also known as the Wireless Control Module (WCM). Depending upon model and year of the vehicle being serviced it may be equipped with either a SKREEM or a WCM.

Perform the following after completion of a diagnostic repair:



NOTE: When entering the PIN, care should be taken because the WCM will only allow 3 consecutive attempts to enter the correct PIN. If 3 consecutive incorrect PIN's are entered the WCM will Lock Out the scan tool. To exit Lock Mode, the ignition key must remain in the Run position for one hour. All accessories must be off. A battery charger connected to the battery during this time period is recommended.

NOTE: On vehicles equipped with a premium Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM) system, when the WCM and/or the spare tire pressure sensor is replaced with a new unit, a diagnostic scan tool MUST be used to run a routine that allows the WCM to be programmed with the ID number and location of the spare tire pressure sensor mounted in the wheel of the spare tire. Follow the programming steps outlined in the diagnostic scan tool for “Learn Spare Tire Sensor ID” under “Miscellaneous Functions” for the “WCM/Wireless Control Module” menu item as appropriate. In addition, if the WCM is replaced, the spare tire must be dismounted from its wheel to access and note the ID number on the spare tire pressure sensor so that the ID code for that sensor can be programmed into the new WCM.
1. Reconnect the previously disconnected components and connectors.
2. Obtain the vehicle's unique Personal Identification Number (PIN) assigned to it's original WCM. This number can be obtained from the original vehicle invoice or from your Service Manager or Parts Manager.
NOTE: If the PCM and the WCM are replaced at the same time, program the PCM VIN into the PCM first.

NOTE: The PCM stores the secret key information. If the WCM ever needs to be replaced, the secret key information can be retrieved from the PCM and then transferred to the WCM for security use.

During PCM/ECM replacement, use the following steps to ensure transfer of the secret key information from the WCM to the new PCM:

1. First replace the PCM/ECM with the original WCM still connected to the vehicle.
2. Using the appropriate Service Information program the new PCM/ECM. (This will ensure the Secret Key Transfer from the original WCM into the new PCM/ECM).
3. Now replace and program the WCM (if necessary). This will retain the Secret Key from the PCM/ECM back into the new WCM.

NOTE: If this vehicle is equipped with a Steering Column Lock Module, it must be replaced along with the WCM.
4. With the scan tool, select Miscellaneous Functions, WCM/Wireless Control Module. Then select the desired procedure and follow the display on the scan tool.
5. If the vehicle is equipped with Tire Pressure Monitoring System program the Placard Pressure Values into the WCM.
6. Ensure all the customer's keys have been programmed into the new module if necessary.
7. With the scan tool, erase all DTCs. Perform 5 ignition key cycles, leaving the key on for at least 90 seconds per cycle.
8. With the scan tool, read WCM DTCs.
 
The batteries were dieing over night.

First they said that the alternator was bad (I did not think so) but I said replace it $500. 00 took the truck home dead batteries again.
Took it back and they said now the WCM was draining the batteries another bill for $250,00 plus another for $116. 00 for an extra key.

It is at this point I am feeling ripped off by a bad diagnose. And being screwed big time.

puller

Are you OK with using a DVOM? If so you can do some of the diagnosis yourself if the draw is there all the time.
 
The truck is now back at the dealer, dead battery problem again. This has been a problem since the beginning, to keep the batteries from going dead I installed a disconnect on each the negative battery post. This has worked by doing this every night, but it messes up the radio and clock.



As far as the keys go I asked the dealer about them today and he said they were bad. How can a key go bad? Both of the keys start the truck but it cuts off after a minute or so.



puller
 
The keys in all '06 and newer trucks apparently contain a tiny transmitter that sends a signal to the truck's theft prevention system. A key with a failed transmitter or an ordinary cut key without the Dodge head will start the truck but it will immediately die each time it is started. I don't know what caused your keys to fail, perhaps something where you work which is transmitting a powerful signal like radar, etc. that has zapped them. I suppose a nearby lightening strike might to it.
 
Interesting I did not know about a transmitter I thought it was just a chip. Since I don't work any longer, the truck sits in the driveway most of the time. I just would like to know how the transmitter got destroyed, along with the dead battery problem. I believe when I get the truck back I will take it another dealer and see if they can make it work.



puller
 
Puller,

I described the key as containing a transmitter but that was only a way to explain that communication must occur between the key and truck. I am assuming that the "chip" contains a transmitter.
 
If you are past the key fiasco and just want to diagnose the battery draw we can help if you have access to a DVOM that can read up to 10 amps current.
 
Thanks,

When the dealer is through throwing parts at it and I get the truck back. I will do a test and get back to you how things are going.

puller
 
Now the dealer wants ro replace the Total integrated power module, also wants another $1000. . to $1100. 00 with no guarantees that it will take care of the problem. If I could afford it I would just dump this and buy a Ford. :mad:



puller
 
Puller,

I understand your frustration - I would be mad as hell but your problem is not the Dodge but an incompetent technician and and equally incompetent or corrupt service manager who is covering the clown who damaged your truck rather than acknowledge they were at fault and repair it for you.
 
Harvey,



You are correct, I am just venting, the truck has been great ever since I brought it. I wonder how you find a competent technician. As far as service writers go they all say I will put my best man on it, of course I would be surprised if one was to say I will put my not so good or worst man on fixing your truck.

I would think with the equipment that they have at their disposal they could find out what the problem is quickly.



puller
 
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