Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Head Gasket Replacement (bolt holes)

[WSHall]

Is there any reason not to blow the head bolt holes with compressed air to aid in the removal of the coolant and oil? I also plan on wiping the the holes out with Q-tips and acetone for a final step.

I am cleaning the block with scothbrite pads and an air sander/polisher.



I am concerned about the air in the holes because I can not find anyone else in the threads using a similiar technique.



I am replacing the valve seals in the head. Can you pop them out with pliers, or a screwdriver? Can you press the new seals back in by your finger?



Any information is much appreciated. Thank you, Shawn

 

[NIsaacs]

Is there any reason not to blow the head bolt holes with compressed air to aid in the removal of the coolant and oil? I also plan on wiping the the holes out with Q-tips and acetone for a final step.

I am cleaning the block with scothbrite pads and an air sander/polisher.



I am concerned about the air in the holes because I can not find anyone else in the threads using a similiar technique.

There is no reason not to use air, in fact it is a good practice. You don't need the q-tip thing unless you just want to. Some brake clean will work fine then use air again. Lightly oil your head bolts on install.



Nick

 

[RonaldLarson]

I always run a tap into head bolt holes before re-assembly. Prevents false torque readings. After that is done, carefully blow out the holes.

 

[ata]

I always run a tap into head bolt holes before re-assembly. Prevents false torque readings. After that is done, carefully blow out the holes.

YES, get a tread chase tap and clean the holes. Just agreeing with you.

 

[Ram4Sam]

Also, make sure you get what I think they call a "bottom" tap, a regular tapered end tap won't chase the threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.

Sam

 

[JLeake]

After you clean scrub and wash the block, head, etc do not use scotch brite or anything like that, the abrasive in them is just like sandpaper, not good for mechanical parts, more like grinding compound. They clean well, and that is the reason. I do not use any abrasive on heads or blocks unless you know you can scrub it out before assembly.

 

[Sticks]

You are absolutely correct in wanting to get any fluid out of those holes. Hydraulic pressure can fracture the block. I cheat and have a vacuum to suck out and fluids (prevents crap going everywhere/reduced cleanup of other areas), then a narrow tip blow gun that can reach the bottom of the hole to make sure any remnants are blown completely out.



Using a Roloc/Scotch Brite/zip wheel... is an acquired skill to remove persistent residue without removing any of the metal. You will know when you can still see the OEM machining marks.



Clean, clean, and clean some more. Surface, mating areas, pistons, cylinder walls, water & oil jackets. You don't want any stray chunks of anything left behind anywhere.



ETA - Sorry, no tips on the valve seals. Never had to do them.