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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) That's it, I'm done.

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Water Pump

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) he351ve or pac

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Apparently I need to add a transfer case so I can get my big ***** fifth wheel up my driveway without frying the clutch.



Where can I get one?



For the truck in my sig.



Thanks in advance.
 
I may be missing an important detail, but my read is you're looking at adding a transfer case to a 2 whl drive truck for the gear reduction. If so, berry interesting. Most just go with trading trucks and getting a 4X4, however I think I like your approach. Just be prepared for needing more than the transfer case. At a minimum will be different drive shaft, don't know if the transmission will need changing or not, others will.

Good luck.
 
3. 54 gears? I never had any trouble with my 16K 5th wheel (see signature) with my 2002 3500 ETH/DEE, but it had a 4. 10 rear axle ratio. I suspect an axle ratio change would be less expensive than adding a transfer case.



Rusty
 
I like your approach. 2:71 reduction that would be about 27 mph at 2000 rpm in o. d. on those mountain roads , good control with engine braking and you can get up your drive.
 
Gear Vendors underdrive sure makes more sense than adding a transfer case. Still must shorten drive shaft, but you are looking at new crossmember, trans output shaft, driveshaft, shfter console etc. with a transfer case.
 
Unless something's changed, I don't believe a GearVendors unit can be engaged until 20+ MPH. The output shaft of the transmission (input of the GearVendors) has to be spinning fast enough to drive the GV oil pump to generate sufficient pressure to apply the conical clutch. A U. S. Gear (Doug Nash) box would work if you could find one - I think they're out of production.



Rusty
 
Regear and a new clutch. Much more effective than trying to adapt a transfer case into where it was never meant to go.
 
Thanks for the info, guys. I don't really want to get a new truck (4WD) as I really like this one.
Just put a new (more aggressive Clutch, 3500# clamping force instead of 2500# stock).

Really only need this for backing and maneuvering into a tight, steep space.

Gear Vendors has already responded saying they can't help.

Spoke with a guy here in town who has a newer truck than mine, he loves the truck, hates the mileage. I like the mileage I get, 10. 5 +/- towing over Donner.

I guess I have a LOT more research to do.

Thanks again.
 
Find a Brown-Lipe (mfg. by Spicer) over/under box to mount behind your transmission. Check with shops that work on medium to heavy-duty trucks.
 
Just put a new (more aggressive Clutch, 3500# clamping force instead of 2500# stock).



Really only need this for backing and maneuvering into a tight, steep space.



Gear Vendors has already responded saying they can't help.



I guess I have a LOT more research to do.



Thanks again.





I don't think the heavy clutch will help since you have to slip it to park your heavy RV. Your original post was going in the right direction. If you have 3. 55 gears going to 4. 10 would help but then you will be speed limited empty. A remote mount NP205 transfer case out of any of the big three would work and give you a 2 to 1 ratio. Just mount it in place of your center bearing. Or as Bill said, one of the small Spicer Aux trannys. The model 5831 like I use comes in 4 different ratios. Mine has a 25% under and 20% over.



Nick
 
I don't think the heavy clutch will help since you have to slip it to park your heavy RV.



Yep, compared to the stock clutch, it may compound your problem. I had to go to the South Bend CON O/FE in my 2002 because of clutch slippage of the stock clutch due to some engine BOMBs. Where the stock clutch was OK with being engaged (fully or partially) at engine idle RPM for maneuvering in 1st or reverse, the O/FE (which is really a pretty friendly "hot rod" clutch) didn't like to be slipped at idle RPM - it would chatter like mad. If I wanted to slip it, I had to bring engine speed up to ~1100 RPM before it would smooth out. It didn't seem to mind being slipped at this higher RPM (no smells, no slip when fully engaged, etc. ), but it was NOT happy when there was little difference in velocity between the flywheel/pressure plate and clutch disc surfaces.



Rusty
 
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You guys need to quit this multiple posting junk... ..... ;)

I like the transfer case solution and I'll have to disagree with you here cerb, it was meant to go there. Plenty of 4X4 trucks have them and no reason one couldn't be put under a RWD truck with no front drive shaft. Find you a donor and go for it. Everything should fit, mounts, cross members, even the drive shaft.
 
You guys need to quit this multiple posting junk... ..... ;)



I like the transfer case solution and I'll have to disagree with you here cerb, it was meant to go there. Plenty of 4X4 trucks have them and no reason one couldn't be put under a RWD truck with no front drive shaft. Find you a donor and go for it. Everything should fit, mounts, cross members, even the drive shaft.



I find the odds of a multiple post are high when the "Are you sure you want to navigate away from this page" box pops up. I get a double everytime that happens. Now Rusty's recent trifecta was a little different... ... . :D

I just check every post now before leaving to check for a duplicate.



I think the transfer case would be easier as well, those Brownies are getting scarce and Spicer parts can be expensive. Plus dealing with getting the correct yokes, a workable shift linkage that is not all worn out, etc.



A transfer case from a Ram with all the trinkets with it from the donor truck would be pretty straight forward.



Mike.
 
I find the odds of a multiple post are high when the "Are you sure you want to navigate away from this page" box pops up. I get a double everytime that happens. Now Rusty's recent trifecta was a little different... ... . :D



Nope, I just hit the OK box on the "navigate away" warning 3 times and nothing happened each time - the danged forum software was frozen up. Soooo..... I wound up with 3 posts; I deleted 2 of them, but are you saying that you still see all three??? :confused:



Rusty
 
Nope, I just hit the OK box on the "navigate away" warning 3 times and nothing happened each time - the danged forum software was frozen up. Soooo..... I wound up with 3 posts; I deleted 2 of them, but are you saying that you still see all three??? :confused:



Rusty



No, they are gone. I just happened to notice it as I was cleaning up my double post. I am now trying to remember if I hit the "OK" button twice. That would make sense if we are hitting that "OK" more than once while the server is hung up.



Mike.
 
I like the transfer case solution and I'll have to disagree with you here cerb, it was meant to go there. Plenty of 4X4 trucks have them and no reason one couldn't be put under a RWD truck with no front drive shaft. Find you a donor and go for it. Everything should fit, mounts, cross members, even the drive shaft.



I would say ALL 4x4 trucks have one, not plenty. :) In that vein, they end up being problematic also.



Will it fit under the body? Don't know the answer to that because I am not familiar with his configuration. That would the first thing to check. Will the shifter fit in the hump? Not sure there either? Is there a difference in the trans tunnels between 2 and 4 wheel drives?



Now, the OD unit has to be swapped off the 2x4 trans. That in itself may be expensive because you can't just buy a cheap OD unit, and, putting a different OD unit on an existing transmission requires shimming and ajusting. Not a bolt on application.



Will the 4x4 trans cross member transplant? Not sure on that either.



Will need the DS from the 4x4 and it will need shortened because the truck is now lower than a 4x4. Next question is ground clearance on a 2x4.



One would need a fair amount of donor parts and then rebuild the OD unit, t-case, drive shaft etc.



The clutch is already smoked so a good HD will need to be source and may solved all the problems. Considering the cost of a t-case with all its myriad of needs as opposed to a gear change, its tough to justify. Not that it couldn't be done but it is a one-off build tht may or may not be senn well with resale or trade. Foir simplicity and efficacy, I would regear it to 4. 10's. That is too heavy a load for 3. 54's.
 
Those are good points, maybe a divorced unit would work better to save screwing with the transmission output but still use a Dodge Crossmember?



I have never owned a 2WD Ram and don't know about the tunnel, next one that I see I am going to have a look.



Mike.
 
Those are good points, maybe a divorced unit would work better to save screwing with the transmission output but still use a Dodge Crossmember?



I have never owned a 2WD Ram and don't know about the tunnel, next one that I see I am going to have a look.



Mike.





Cerb is no fun, he is too practical:-laf



I don't think you would want to mess the the transmission thats why I mentioned the remote mount. It hangs tho so you would need the mounts off the donor truck, no need for the regular crossmember. The tunnel should be the same with a manual transmission. An NP203 might be even better than the 205. Since he won't need the front output, just cut the hangy downy part off, weld a plate over the opening and have your ground clearance. The 203 has the low range box bolted to the top of the main case so you could do away with most of it. A 11. 26 1st and reverse gear would be cool:D



Nick
 
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