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NV5600 Getting Stuck in Gear.... and in neutral

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Check engine light.

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Hey Guys,



I'm having some transmission problems on my 2004 NV5600. The truck has about 175k miles on it. I don't tow often, but did rag on it pretty hard from time to time when ti was newer. For the past couple years, I have had issues with an occasional grind when shifting into 3rd gear. This primarily happens if I don't match the right RPMs, or if I try to shift too quickly. I assume that it's a worn synchronizer.



The last few times I've driven the truck, I have a new problem. Both times I did it, I had driven the truck about 25 miles, and everything was up to temp. The symptom that I see is that when I try to shift, I'm not able to. The first time it happened, I had shifted out of third gear, and was going for fourth and it the gear shift physically wouldn't go into fourth. I tried to go to fifth instead, and then down to third, with no luck. The only place the shifter would move is back and forth in neutral. Something was completely restricting me from going into any gear. A couple minutes after I pulled over, I was finally able to get it into third, so I drove the final two miles home in that gear. When I got home, I was able to go into any gear without any problems.



I drove the truck again a few days later. I drove 30 miles to work, and didn't have any problems. On the way home, however, I ran into a similar problem after driving about 25 miles. This time, I was going up a hill and needed to downshift because it was steep and I was coming into a corner. I shifted out of sixth, into fifth. As I continued to slow, I needed to go to fourth. When I pressed the clutch, the gear shift wouldn't come out of fifth gear. The clutch did disengage the transmission, but the shifter just wouldn't come out. I let the clutch back out and lugged it up the hill in fifth gear. At the top of the hill, I got back up to a comfortable speed for 5th gear, and tried to shift out of 5th again. The gear shift felt immobile. Even if I left the clutch in, and matched the RPMs so there is no pressure on the transmission, it wouldn't come out of gear, clutch in or not.



Again, I drove home, and once there I was able to use any gear.



At this point, it sounds like it isn't a clutch issue because even with the clutch engaged, I should have been able to easily shift out of 5th gear when I had the RPMs matched.



So, reviewing the symptoms that I'm seeing, do you transmission gurus have any idea what I'm looking at as far as a repair? I have one of the SBC dual disc clutches and the upgraded hydraulics, and a one piece aluminum driveshaft. The transmission has AMSOIL in it with less than 15k miles on the fluid change. I haven't heard any abnormal noises, clunking, etc from the transmission.



Thanks in advance for any insight you guys can offer!



Patriot_RAM
 
It sounds like the pilot bearing on the input shaft is going bad. When they go bad they try to seize to the input shaft. Which makes it like you have no clutch.
 
It sounds like the pilot bearing on the input shaft is going bad. When they go bad they try to seize to the input shaft. Which makes it like you have no clutch.



That makes sense except for one symptom. Normally, if the clutch is engaged, pedal fully extended, I can easily move the gear shift from any gear, into neutral as long as I'm coasting. In this case, I wasn't able to push it out of gear, regardless of clutch position.
 
The clutch was disengaging and engaging fine, correct? You could clutch it and rev the engine with no issues and feel it engage again? I am reading that into your description and want to clarify that. :)

Has to be in the the shift rails somewhere then if it is not just one gear. If it was 1 or maybe 2 gears all the time I would say synchros but it sounds like it is random gears and it may be shift in or shift out that doesn't work, right?
 
The clutch was disengaging and engaging fine, correct? You could clutch it and rev the engine with no issues and feel it engage again? I am reading that into your description and want to clarify that. :)



Has to be in the the shift rails somewhere then if it is not just one gear. If it was 1 or maybe 2 gears all the time I would say synchros but it sounds like it is random gears and it may be shift in or shift out that doesn't work, right?



That sounds accurate. I think I'm going to drive it this evening or tomorrow again to see if it will do it again so I can verify everything, but I'm 95% sure what you said is accurate. Thanks for the reply!
 
I'm going with a shift rail/ gate issue. Mine has a similar issue going into 2nd. It seems to want to in on at a certain way nowadays, not directly back, and I can feel interference (I'm not familiar with the gate/ interlock structure inside) if it's not done just right. I know it's not a clutch problem because I use another high gear to stop everything at a full stop before going in, and it sometimes still happens.
 
if you pull the shifter out there is a plastic cup that fits on the end of it that is probably worn. the only way we could get one was to buy the shifter. you need to run two quarts over full of a 50-50 mix of the following oils to prevent problems and wear.
Delo Synthetic Transmission Fluid SAE 50
Delo Synthetic Transmission Fluid SAE 50 delivers exceptional all-climate, year-round performance in heavy duty truck transmissions. A unique additive package can protect gears without using the “active sulfur” agents commonly found in automotive axle oils. This results in little to no corrosion and long life for copper-containing parts, such as oil coolers, bushings, and thrust washers. Good pumpability in extreme hot or cold temperatures promotes smooth shifting and efficient power transfer. It is specifically formulated to meet the latest extended drain requirements for Eaton transmissions, with drain intervals of up to 500,000 miles.
Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions
that specify an automatic transmission fluid or motor oil.
It is also ideal for transfer cases and 2-cycle motorcycle
gear boxes.
Synchromax is formulated with Royal Purple's synthetic,
proprietary Synerlec additive technology, offering
improved shift quality over a wide temperature range and
reduced gear noise.
Synchromax is fully compatible with all types of friction
materials and offers excellent corrosion and oxidation
protection without affecting the soft metals commonly
found in manual transmission synchronizers.
Performance Advantages
• Greater wear protection
• Smoother shifts
• Excellent rust / corrosion protection
• Reduces friction for more power
• Lowers operating temperatures
 
Thanks CKelley1, If I did the overfill through the shift tower, I probably would see that, but I don't. I'll take a look- thanks.

Could you please tell how you came up with that oil mix? and how long have you been using it in one unit?
 
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