Need front axel U joint help

[Dreamer]

Does anyone know if there is info in TDR Magazine back issues on replacing the front axel U joints on a 2005 4X4 and if so, which issue. Thanks

 

[jelag]

Are you looking for a written procedure... this is a simple task yet time consuming... . you might consider rockauto.com for the parts... I just had mine all apart for ball joints... . I can give you a step by step if that's what your looking for...

 

[Dreamer]

Thanks Jim, I was trying to get an idea of how difficult it is and decide if I want to tackle it or get it done at a shop. I also would like to know what make of universals are best and can be greased. Don't think I need a step by step at this time.

 

[rscurtis]

I used Precision 464's in my truck. The most difficult part of the job will be removing the unitized wheel bearings, followed by changing the joints themselves. Be sure to install them so that the grease fitting location is under "compression" when going forward. Install so the fittings face toward the center of the truck. If you plan to keep the truck and don't use 4WD on a regular basis, now would be the time to install one of the free-spin kits.

 

[jelag]

Get the truck on Jack stands and if you don't have an air wrench loosen the lug nuts before you put the truck up on Jack Stands... . Remove the tire, remove the adapter for dually wheels... . I used a 15/16 box end wrench and hit it with a hammer while my wife held the brake pedal to break the nuts loose and than turned them off... and than removed the adapter...

Removed the cotter pin in the axle, and the nut and the nut... before the nut was off I tapped the end of the axle(nut) with a hammer and watched the axle move in the hub... . Pulled the caliper... I pull the complete caliper by cracking the bleeder... . and than pulling the (2) 18MM bolts that hold the complete caliper assy to the truck... .

I pull the caliper off... . compress the pads, close the bleeder and hang the caliper to the frame with a bungy cord. .

I then pulled the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the axle... . (18MM again??) and pull the hub off the axle... making sure that I either pull off the ABS lead... or hang the hub so that the the hub doesn't hang by the lead... . I loosened the bolts to the hub. . than put an extension on the socket and struck it with a 8lb sledge hammer to push the hub out of the housing...

I than used a large screw driver and pried the axle out of the housing... .

assemble in the reverse order, brushing all contact parts with a wire brush... and than coating all mechanical connections with anti-seize...

 

[Dreamer]

Thanks for the help. This is a great site.

Brian

 

[RDeFayette]

Get the truck on Jack stands and if you don't have an air wrench loosen the lug nuts before you put the truck up on Jack Stands... . Remove the tire, remove the adapter for dually wheels... . I used a 15/16 box end wrench and hit it with a hammer while my wife held the brake pedal to break the nuts loose and than turned them off... and than removed the adapter...



Removed the cotter pin in the axle, and the nut and the nut... before the nut was off I tapped the end of the axle(nut) with a hammer and watched the axle move in the hub... . Pulled the caliper... I pull the complete caliper by cracking the bleeder... . and than pulling the (2) 18MM bolts that hold the complete caliper assy to the truck... .



I pull the caliper off... . compress the pads, close the bleeder and hang the caliper to the frame with a bungy cord. .



I then pulled the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the axle... . (18MM again??) and pull the hub off the axle... making sure that I either pull off the ABS lead... or hang the hub so that the the hub doesn't hang by the lead... . I loosened the bolts to the hub. . than put an extension on the socket and struck it with a 8lb sledge hammer to push the hub out of the housing...



I than used a large screw driver and pried the axle out of the housing... .



assemble in the reverse order, brushing all contact parts with a wire brush... and than coating all mechanical connections with anti-seize...

One helpful addition is, the lead for the ABS has a connector mounted to the inside of the fender liner. Just unplug the sensor wire and get the whole unit bearing /hub out of the way.

One other thing, to keep the wheel from spinning when loosening OR tightening is to stick a a HEAVY metal bar of some sort into the axle u-joint. Won't spin now/ever when the bar hits the axle housing.

 

[mwilson]

Another way to handle the hub nut (even on front wheel drive cars) is to loosen the axle nut before removing the tire and jacking the truck up in the first place. When assembling I snug the axle nut, put the rest of the assembly together, install the tire and snug the wheel nuts. Let the truck down.
Then I torque the hub nut and wheel nuts.

This is for a 2500 and 3500 SRW.

Is the axle nut blocked by the adaptor on a DRW??

Much easier and safer. No bars or anything else that could go flying.

JMHO.

Mike.

 

[RVTRKN]

I used Precision 464's in my truck. The most difficult part of the job will be removing the unitized wheel bearings, followed by changing the joints themselves. Be sure to install them so that the grease fitting location is under "compression" when going forward. Install so the fittings face toward the center of the truck. If you plan to keep the truck and don't use 4WD on a regular basis, now would be the time to install one of the free-spin kits.

I second the free spin kit, a little more expensive, but get rid of the crapy unitized bearings. It's a lot of work to get to the u-joint's so it the perfect time for it.

 

[RDeFayette]

Another way to handle the hub nut (even on front wheel drive cars) is to loosen the axle nut before removing the tire and jacking the truck up in the first place. When assembling I snug the axle nut, put the rest of the assembly together, install the tire and snug the wheel nuts. Let the truck down.

Then I torque the hub nut and wheel nuts.



This is for a 2500 and 3500 SRW.



Is the axle nut blocked by the adaptor on a DRW??



Much easier and safer. No bars or anything else that could go flying.



JMHO.



Mike.

The axle nut isn't "blocked" by the DRW adapter BUT if you leave the adapter on it makes getting the cotter pin out harder AND you need to use an extension on the socket making the nut that much harder to loosen/tighten.

after the first time assuming all the rust is cleaned off of the steering knuckle and unit bearing AND anti-sieze is used upon reassembly the next time the u-joint needs to be replaced is a piece-o-cake. Just did drivers side joint a couple of weeks ago (again) start to finish 20 minutes. good times.

 

[wcjp]

I use the hydraulic steering power to loosen the unit bearing. I have a 6" piece of steel that contacts the Unit Bearing bolts to force it out. I also let a local company remove/install the Ujoint on the front axle shafts. It's only a $10 install fee. Be sure to use lots of AntiSeize on install.

 

[bighammer]

I use the hydraulic steering power to loosen the unit bearing. I have a 6" piece of steel that contacts the Unit Bearing bolts to force it out. I also let a local company remove/install the Ujoint on the front axle shafts. It's only a $10 install fee. Be sure to use lots of AntiSeize on install.

Using the hydraulic power steering pressure is a good way to blow up (otherwise good) ball joints. (ask me how I know)

There is a tool that is basically a replacement bolt with a cup for an air chisel pointed tip. Not sure who makes it, or where to get it, but maybe a mechanic's tool supply store/truck.

 

[NGuzik]

Make sure the axle nut is set to the proper torque of around 260 ft/lbs! This is the reason many unitbearing go bad! Also I use spicer joints. A good rule of thumb is to pick up the new joint and compare the weight to the old one(oem). Many joints like moog are much less sturdy and fail quickly when not grease regularly. And don't forget you get what you pay for with front end parts.

 

[jwduke]

X3 on the parttime kit. I may have gained a mile to the gallon mpg, but the use of 4 low in 2wd is priceless!