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Couldn't get G56 into reverse!

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SVick

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At about 45k miles I noticed my factory clutch starting to slip but I don't remember any shifting issues, so I had a South Bend G56 clutch kit installed with the new hydraulics and I had them put Red Line MTL in place of the ATF the factory uses. At first all seemed fine but after a few thousand miles I noticed it was difficult to get into 2nd after the truck was driven over 20 miles, so after full warm up. Then it seems like it was also in reverse and sometimes into first. Then last week, I couldn't get into reverse for a while. I kept trying to go to first, second, and all others then back to reverse and finally it went in and drove home fine. Only about 2 miles. I haven't driven it since then. Could it be the oil I had put in? Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance, Scott
 
It sounds like your clutch is not fully releasing, for whatever reason. It should have a new pilot bearing with the new flywheel, so it shouldn't be that, but it sounds like it could be. Also, the disk splines might be draging on the input shaft splines. If the clutch disk don't slide freely on the input shaft, the disk face can drag slightly on the flywheel when the pressure plate is released.



Nick
 
My truck has just over 50k on it and the trans was checked by a high quality shop when they installed he clutch. It only is difficult when fully warmed up which makes me think it may be the oil that I chose, Red Line MTL. Maybe I should change it back to the ATF and see what happens, any thoughts guys?
 
Do a search for member CKelley1, he has a proven formula for the G56. I'm not sure about the Red Line, but ATF will never go back into my G56. I'm currently running Mobiltrans SHC DC and has performed OK for the 500 miles I now have on it. I had the DMF changed out to the SBC conversion kit with the SDD 3250 clutch installed. Richard Poels of Standard Transmission went through the G56 and found browned bearings that were replaced. I'm installing temperature sensors today to find out what the temperature is running at. The thinner the oil the easier it is to dissipate the heat, and also install Trans Coolers from Geno's Garage.
 
Mine's been difficult to get out of reverse after sitting all night for ages. Did the same thing with the dmf. After backing out of the driveway,I have to cycle the clutch a second time and it slides right out. Everything's fine once warmed up. I imagine I'll be making a run to Tucson someday.
I use CKelley1's formula and it's stiff first thing in the morning.
 
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Update, I changed the trans oil today and installed full synthetic Valvoline ATF+4 as the owners manual specs and just drove about 30 miles. The normal shifting is back it seems, maybe it was my incorrect choice of oil. I'll wait a while to be sure, b I hope all is ok now.
 
Update, I changed the trans oil today and installed full synthetic Valvoline ATF+4 as the owners manual specs and just drove about 30 miles. The normal shifting is back it seems, maybe it was my incorrect choice of oil. I'll wait a while to be sure, b I hope all is ok now.

It could just be my imagination but after I change the fluid with the proper Mopar stuff, it does seems to shift better. The thing is, that better shifting doesn't seem to last very long.
 
I changed to Mobil Delvac 50 and could not be happier with the performance. I will not go back to ATF+4. The research that CKelley1 did plus Mercede's own recommendations convinced me to make the change.
 
I'm running the Mobiltrans SHC DC which is real close to Delvac 50, and I'm going to thin it down as CKelley1 has done with the Delvac 50 but I'm going to check the oil temperature first and get a base line on the temperature before I thin it. The trans is noisy when warmed up so I'm experimenting with what works best. But as of now it sits on jack stands until my PLX system is fully installed and can see my added gages.
 
SierraRam, how loud is the transmission when idling in neutral with the clutch disengaged (out), when warm? I know there is the noise of the middle plate rotating, thats why I'm curious about the trans noise when idling. When cold my trans is quiet, after warming up it gets noisier.
 
I run the Amsoil sycromesh along with the SB dual disc clutch and don't have all that much noise. But with a flywheel, a floater and pressure plate spinning around 2 disc's when disengaged, its going to make some noise. When its in neutral clutch pedal out it has what SB calls gear rollover. Everyone thinks there is something wrong. They just don't understand the mechanics of a dual disc.
 
I run the Amsoil sycromesh along with the SB dual disc clutch and don't have all that much noise. But with a flywheel, a floater and pressure plate spinning around 2 disc's when disengaged, its going to make some noise. When its in neutral clutch pedal out it has what SB calls gear rollover. Everyone thinks there is something wrong. They just don't understand the mechanics of a dual disc.
I have a silently operating single disc. It's the trans that makes all the racket with mine with the thinner fluid. Only in 1st,2nd gear in parking lots. Aluminum case does it.
A Fluidamper smoothed my idle somewhat,but did nothing for the transmission noise.
 
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I run the Amsoil sycromesh along with the SB dual disc clutch and don't have all that much noise. But with a flywheel, a floater and pressure plate spinning around 2 disc's when disengaged, its going to make some noise. When its in neutral clutch pedal out it has what SB calls gear rollover. Everyone thinks there is something wrong. They just don't understand the mechanics of a dual disc.
That was one of the main reasons for going through the major expense of having the transmission disassembled and inspected, even though there was only 45K miles on it. And it had the typical browned bearings, that were replaced. I knew there would be questions in my mind about the reported noises that most complain about, thinking the trans is worn from the DMF or just plain wore out. I know in my mind its OK now, but my mechanical mind set cringes when I hear it.
 
What is the weight of the oil? the G56 requires a thinner oil than most. I believe Dodge thought the ATF would work for this purpose, but the thinner the oil, the easier the heat transfer, and the aluminum needs to shed its heat or the case will stretch when it gets hot. I also think thats why CKelley1 has had so much success with his formula. Below is a quote from a member that has a proven formula for the G56, note that he mentions Royal Purple.







CKelley1

Join Date

Jan 2008

Posts

1,101

"we found that out in our test but the sae 50 is to thick in cold weather. we blend a 50-50-mix of the sae50 and 5w-30 and use 7 quarts.

here is what we use. Delo Synthetic Transmission Fluid SAE 50 delivers exceptional all-climate, year-round performance in heavy duty truck transmissions. A unique additive package can protect gears without using the “active sulfur” agents commonly found in automotive axle oils. This results in little to no corrosion and long life for copper-containing parts, such as oil coolers, bushings, and thrust washers. Good pumpability in extreme hot or cold temperatures promotes smooth shifting and efficient power transfer. It is specifically formulated to meet the latest extended drain requirements for Eaton transmissions, with drain intervals of up to 500,000 miles.

Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions

that specify an automatic transmission fluid or motor oil.

It is also ideal for transfer cases and 2-cycle motorcycle

gear boxes.

Synchromax is formulated with Royal Purple’s synthetic,

proprietary Synerlec additive technology, offering

improved shift quality over a wide temperature range and

reduced gear noise.

Synchromax is fully compatible with all types of friction

materials and offers excellent corrosion and oxidation

protection without affecting the soft metals commonly

found in manual transmission synchronizers.

Performance Advantages

• Greater wear protection

• Smoother shifts

• Excellent rust / corrosion protection

• Reduces friction for more power

• Lowers operating temperatures"
 
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