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48E flush

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azwiz

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does anyone know the link for instructions to complete drain and flush of 48E trans and converter (2006 3500 auto) I thought I had it but cant find it



Thanks in advance

Steve
 
You'll get almost 12 quarts out of the transmission if you loosen the 10 valve body mounting bolts and let it drain overnight. Retorque them to 100 INCH pounds.
 
Without removing the cooler you really can't flush it. All you can do is exchange the fluid in the transmission and lines using the rear cooler line as a dump point while refilling the trans several times.

The front cooler has a thermostat in it that will route fluid around the main cooler when the temp drops under 140 degrees. You never get the main cooler flushed unless you do it seperately or remove the thermostat and flip it around.
 
Without removing the cooler you really can't flush it. All you can do is exchange the fluid in the transmission and lines using the rear cooler line as a dump point while refilling the trans several times.



The front cooler has a thermostat in it that will route fluid around the main cooler when the temp drops under 140 degrees. You never get the main cooler flushed unless you do it seperately or remove the thermostat and flip it around.





that will exchange TC (torque converter) oil also, right?
 
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Fill the transmission with fluid same amount that you drained out . On the return line a hose is directed to a 5 gallon bucket and the input has a funnel so that new fluid can be added at the same rate as the old being pumped out. Kind of a pain but it works.



Curious do Goerend torque converters have a drain plug??
 
that will exchange TC (torque converter) oil also, right?



Yes. In netral you have almost full flow thru the cooler so the fluid comes out of the TC return and ashuttle valve routes the bulk of it thru the cooler, The left over is returned to the pan. The division is done by flow so it usually takes about 0 quarts to get a god clean flow out of the cooler return line.



Cerb how about torching the thermostat to get it to open up??



There is cold fluid being pumped thru the cooler and the area of the thermostats is pretty small. I don't think you can get enough heat on there and not cause other issues. The thermostat is sealed with a neoprene o-ring, excess heat from a torch is going to ruin it. That o-ring is the source of leaks after so many heat\cool cycles, it is not the toughest thing out there.



Any TC can have a drain plug put in it if requsted. The billet covers are easy to do, the stcokers are problematic as the cover is not very strong anyway.
 
How about ditching the thermostat for us people that live in warm climates???

You can take it out and turn it around so it never activates, that will route fluid constantly thru the cooler. In all but the coldest areas that should be fine. Likely would need to run it in neutral on high idle for a bit longer to warm things up if it was cold but it is a solution. Cold fluid and taking off without a warmup is really hard on these transmissions. You can blow seals pretty easily in cold temps doing that. Not 20-30-40 degrees, sub zero would be the real problem but high idling in neutral will help thta a lot.
 
OK we hardly ever see freezing out here . Thanks for the input

Yeah, in the warmer climes it is not really an issue. Mine is leaking and annoying me. I am considering just replacing it with a comparative sized Derale cooler and ridding myslef of the pesky quick connects and metal lines all the way back to the transmission.
 
I bought a derale small unit with an thermostatically controlled electric fan I have been wanting to install
 
Yeah, in the warmer climes it is not really an issue. Mine is leaking and annoying me. I am considering just replacing it with a comparative sized Derale cooler and ridding myslef of the pesky quick connects and metal lines all the way back to the transmission.

Would you use hydraulic line all the way back?
 
Would you use hydraulic line all the way back?

Most places I have check to get 1/2 line and the good press on fittings instead of the mickey mouse stuff, you have to go to hydraulic line. Its over kill for the pressures but should last a long time. The Derale with a fan is good extra capacity if you do a lot of slow speed stop-n-go driving.
 
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