Clutch recommendation for '03

[DBrundage]

Got 195k on my '03 3500 and have had a few issues with the clutch slip while romping it with heavy loads. Looking at a South Bend 147-OFe. Any thoughts?

 

[MuddFlapp]

I love my South Bend. I put in a Part # G56-OFEK single disk to replace the stock clutch. I'm running 70+ extra hp and hauling 13k. No problems. The other nice thing is they are a complete package.

 

[Shadrach]

I have the SBC Con OFEK as well. My buddy has 1 in his 1st gen also. We both have out engines tweaked and haul loads. David

 

[AH64ID]

I have the OFE in my 05 and really like it; however, I just had a O-HD put into my dad's 06 with a G56 and I like that clutch a lot more than the OFE. It's smoother and quieter.

The O-HD is rated 425/850 vs the OFE 475/1000. If your power is not above the O-HD I would look at that clutch first and then the OFE. The OFE is a good clutch, but the O-HD is better in certain aspects.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

As above. If you only have injectors, the O-HD clutch from South Bend is plenty, smooth, long lasting. It would be my top choice.

 

[Killgore]

I also went with the above and it is smooth. I do hear the growl while sitting at the lights or poking around in the lower gears but it is not offensive. The hydralics were upgraded when the complete kit was installed. I am a very satisfied customer.



Ed

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The growl is caused by engine vibration and some is transmitted through the heavy duty hub. The light duty hub from LuK doesn't do that so much, but it is, well, light duty and parts inside are prone to breakage over time. The HD hub is almost bulletproof.

 

[AH64ID]

We installed the viscous damper from a 6. 7/QS480 onto my 05 and dads 06. The gear rollover noise is all but nonexistent on his 06, and comes and goes in my 05. The better damper made a big difference on noise on both rigs, but we never ran the old damper on the 06 with the new clutch.

 

[Killgore]

Joe, that's the way it was explained to me when I first put it in. I don't mind it - it's just part of my truck's personality. I sometimes growl and make odd noises myself, but I'm harmless. Ed

 

[Prairie Dog]

As above. If you only have injectors, the O-HD clutch from South Bend is plenty, smooth, long lasting. It would be my top choice.

100% agree with this. Avoid the ConOfe and stick with organic if at all possible.
The ConOfe gets very grabby and has to be abused (Slipped hard) regularly to deep it from getting too much so.

 

[AH64ID]

I don't think I would classify my OFE as very grabby. I might get one or two engagements a year that I call grabby, and that's usually after a bunch of jockeying at slow speed with slippage.

 

[DBrundage]

Thanks for all the input.
My neighbor got a South Bend clutch 1947 OFeK and says his has never grabbed. I understand it can grab if the slave cylinder isn't adjusted just right. My transmission guy said to always put in a new master/slave cylinder kit and make sure it's adjusted right. South Bend has a sheet on this causing problems if it isn't adjusted right. The grabbing can be the clutch not fully releasing.
So, I ordered the above clutch from Summit Racing and a new Master/slave cylinder from Geno's Garage. transmission guy says if it's already slipped I need it changed before I move cattle/hay in November. He'll charge about $400 labor or I can do it myslef- hmmm. ;~)

 

[Prairie Dog]

It's not the slave that causes the grab, it's the material of the clutch according to DDP (who installed mine and many others). They told me there are fibers that end up hanging off the friction material and that they cause the jerkiness. Slipping the clutch cleans them off (apparently).
So I can stop it for a while by letting out the clutch out a bit in first with my foot on the brake. After that it will be fine for a week maybe.
If it were the hydraulics then the slipping action wouldn't have any effect.
BUT, if someone can explain how my hyd's are causing this (and how slipping the clutch makes it better) I will happily run right out and buy new HD hyds!

 

[AH64ID]

It's not the slave that causes the grab, it's the material of the clutch according to DDP (who installed mine and many others). They told me there are fibers that end up hanging off the friction material and that they cause the jerkiness. Slipping the clutch cleans them off (apparently).
So I can stop it for a while by letting out the clutch out a bit in first with my foot on the brake. After that it will be fine for a week maybe.
If it were the hydraulics then the slipping action wouldn't have any effect.
BUT, if someone can explain how my hyd's are causing this (and how slipping the clutch makes it better) I will happily run right out and buy new HD hyds!

How long have you had yours? They did a redesign of the OFE 3-4 years ago.

 

[Prairie Dog]

How long have you had yours? They did a redesign of the OFE 3-4 years ago.

Not sure exactly when but it's much older than that.

With all the "abusing" I have to give it to keep it civil, I'm sure it's shortening its life. I think I'll actually be relieved when it fails so I can put the new organic in it.

 

[AH64ID]

That could be the difference. From what I was told they used to be much grabbier, and more prone to heat (slippage) related warping.

 

[Prairie Dog]

That could be the difference. From what I was told they used to be much grabbier, and more prone to heat (slippage) related warping.

I hope that's the case. I absolutely hate this South Bend clutch and consider it the worst thing I've done to my truck in the ten years I've owned it.

 

[DBrundage]

Put in a 1947-OFEK South Bend and it works just fine. Only real comment is clutch pedal is really light. Also put in South Bend master/slave hydraulic assy so maybe that's why it's light. I'm confident that I can now haul cattle next month and not worry about the old clutch slipping.