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03 Cummins Hard Start problem...

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Fuel Pressure Sensor Seal 2003 5.9 CR

Mopar fan belt part number... please confirm

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I am working on a 03 cummins, has 74K has sat for over 2 years for the hard start problem. If you whif some either at the air box it will start... . NOT my ideal action, owner said that's what it needed to start. Once started it runs great, has good power, runs smooth... ..... I didn't the key dance, came up with P2509 Powerdown Data Lost Error, took it to dealer had reflash done, still starts hard, code is gone. Next for me is to check lift pump fuel pressure, I believe that is the problem. dealer told me lift pump first, then injectors to check... .



Any insite would be greatly appreciated
 
7psi key on and 5psi running and high rpm no load... looks like an Air Dog candidate, after that if it has problems yet, then hi pressure test..... my thoughts

my info shows 9. 5psi is minimum
 
Do the high pressure test now . That's enough pressure for idling these engines will run with no pump if needed. Separate yourself from the "parts replacers till it works right" crowd
 
Re-torque the cross tubes to 42 ft lbs and call it a day...

The reason for this... with leaking cross tubes, the CP3 at cranking cannot raise enough rail pressure (3500 psi) for the ECM to command the injector solenoids to fire, once started it runs fine because the higher rpm of the CP3 can now maintain at least minimum pressure.
 
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might try retorque the injector fuel tubes first,then injector leak test.
Exactly!!!! You could try an injector fuel return test first for reference, then again after the re-torquing to realize the benefit.
 
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what is best scanner to use to test high pressure? I have a snap on brick but its not updated new enough, should not of gotten rid of my brick with black cartridges good to 06...

I read that some scanners will work on some years, but not others, any that work on all years... . I've been thinking of purchasing a new scanner and don't want to buy multiple if not needed. I have done lots of work on VP44 trucks but limited on CR, many injectors in 06 trucks... .

also this 03 loses lift pump pressure within a couple minutes of being shut off, my 99(old reliable) holds pressure after shut down... ????
 
what is best scanner to use to test high pressure? I have a snap on brick but its not updated new enough, should not of gotten rid of my brick with black cartridges good to 06...

I read that some scanners will work on some years, but not others, any that work on all years... . I've been thinking of purchasing a new scanner and don't want to buy multiple if not needed. I have done lots of work on VP44 trucks but limited on CR, many injectors in 06 trucks... .

also this 03 loses lift pump pressure within a couple minutes of being shut off, my 99(old reliable) holds pressure after shut down... ????

As far as testing the high pressure output of the CP3 at this point, since it runs fine once started, is most likely not necessary. The rail pressure relief valve could be failing, that would account for hard starting for the same reason as loose cross tubes, CP3 cannot create enough pressure to fire injectors.

You need to conduct an injector fuel return rate test at the CP3 or at the rear of the head. Disconnect the fuel return line, attach a short hose and place in a clean jar, start the truck (ether if needed) let idle for 30 seconds shut off. Pour the fuel from the jar into a measuring cup capable of milliliters, The amount allowable IIRC should be under 80 ML, I do not have my notes here with me, someone else or your info may state the allowable return EDIT: (allowable return, 1000prm with FCA unplugged for 30 seconds, 160 ML optimal, 240 ML bad news. ). If return is higher, the you have a failed pressure relief valve, leaking injector(s), or leaking cross tubes.

Since re-torquing the cross tubes does not require new parts, it is the first and foremost exercise to perform. If that does not solve the issue, next I would test the RPRV, disconnect the return line from the RPRV and bag it with a plastic sandwich bag and rubber bands. Then screw an adapter into the RPRV and bag it also, unplug the FCA harness, this allows max CP3 press. Start the truck momentarily and let idle for a few seconds and shut down. The truck will rattle like hell because of the high CP3 pressure, if any fuel has escaped the RPRV into the sandwich bag, the valve is kaput. The return line bag will have some fuel in it.

After these test have been performed and issues still persist, then injectors may be considered... let us know your outcome.

Jess

The lift pump pressure leaking off at shutdown is normal for a CR.

Here is a better description for the fuel return rate test,looks like this may be for a 6. 7, too much info out there.


NOTE: Do not use test fitting 9014 . This fitting will block return flow from the High Pressure Delivery Pump and damage the seal and could potentially damage the engine.
5. Install a 5/16 diameter rubber fuel hose (Hose A) onto the test fitting and into a fuel container.

NOTE: This hose is used to measure the High Pressure Pump return flow.
6. Remove the vehicle fuel return line (Quick connect) from the engine fuel drain tube.
7. Install a 5/16 diameter rubber fuel hose (Hose B) onto the engine fuel drain tube and into the fuel container.

NOTE: This hose will be used to measure the Injector return flow for this procedure.
8. Start engine and allow to idle for 30 seconds. This step allows the flows to stabilize.
9. Using the scan tool, navigate to ECM view -> PCM Cummins -> More Options-> System Tests -> Fuel Pressure Override Test. Select Start, then press Next.

NOTE: While the test is running, record the FCA duty cycle % and actual rail pressure. Record the readings on the Cummins DieselDiagnostic Worksheet located under e-files, service, Star center in Dealerconnect.
10. Press the Run button to start the Fuel Pressure Override Test. The engine speed will elevate rapidly to 1200 RPM and the rail pressure will increase to 20000 psi (1400 bar). At this point, move (Hose B) from the bucket and insert it into a graduated cylinder. Collect the fuel until the Fuel Pressure Override Test times out (30 seconds).
11. Measure and record the amount of fuel collected in the graduated cylinder.

NOTE: Flow should be less than 160 ml for 30 seconds.

NOTE: If the amount of fuel collected is greater than 240 ml/30 secs, it is recommended that all 6 injectors be replaced.
12. If the flow is less than 160 ml/30 seconds, the test has successfully passed. If the flow is greater than 160 ml/30 seconds, but less than 240 ml/30 secs, turn off the engine and remove all 6 high pressure fuel lines. Re-torque the high-pressure connector nut for each injector. Inspect for damage, repair/replace as necessary. Reinstall the high pressure fuel lines. Re-measure the injector return flow using steps 8 through 12 as a guide. Continue on to next step.
13. If the amount of fuel is still greater than 160 ml/30 seconds after re-torquing the high-pressure connector nuts, turn the engine off and remove the #1 high pressure fuel line. Cap the #1 fuel port using tool 9864 for the 6. 7L engine on the fuel rail and re-measure the injector return flow using steps 8 through 12 as a guide. Repeat this procedure for injectors 2-6. Continue on to next step.
14. Replace the Fuel Injector and High pressure connector of the injector that shows the largest amount of change when capped off.


Did the vehicle pass the Injector Return Flow test at step 12 without any repairs needed?

Yes

Injector return flow is within specification, and no repair is needed. Perform the FUEL PUMP RETURN FLOW TEST procedure. (Refer to 29 - Non-DTC Diagnostics/Drivability - Diesel - Diagnosis and Testing) .

No

Replace the failed Fuel Injector(s) and verify repair.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6. 7L. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Engine Control (ECM) - Standard Procedure).
 
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My 03 had similar symptoms. It wouldn't start below 50 degrees. It got a rail psi gauge and during cranking I would only see 900-950 psi. A quick hit of ether with the grids unplugged would spin the engine fast enough to build 1100 psi in the fuel rail and it would start. Different years and flashes may require different rail psi for the computer to turn on the injectors, but mine is right around 1100. Now that I have new injectors, it starts so fast it's at 5000 psi by the time I can see what the gauge is doing.
 
I had the same no-start problem and was able to isolate it to one bad injector by capping off each injector, one at a time, and trying to start he truck. When I capped number 6, she fired right up. One new injector and crossover tube, and no more problems.
 
I had the same no-start problem and was able to isolate it to one bad injector by capping off each injector, one at a time, and trying to start he truck. When I capped number 6, she fired right up. One new injector and crossover tube, and no more problems.

Possibly, by simply re-torquing #6 cross tube you could have saved the cost of an injector. #6 is hard to reach under the best of circumstances, and seems to be one that always looses torque...

Cerb says it's a good idea to apply a thread sealant on the cross tube locknut, believe I'll do that next time.
 
Very good point, and I actually did that the "first" time through. I got everything apart but the final two bolts holding the injector in and decided I had to know if it was the cross-over tube as it seemed to come off too easily. So I reassembled it all, and torqued it correctly, and it fired right up. It ran fine for about a month and then the no start returned. I pulled it all apart AGAIN and replaced number six. Problem fixed for about eight months now.

Having said that, I think the hold down bolts on number six were not torqued correctly as they came out far too easily (common theme here), but I was not going to go through the whole process again, plus I had already purchased an injector that could not be returned as too much time had elapsed, so I just replaced it.

I am going to have it tested to confirm my belief that it is "good". If so, I will have an emergency spare...

I guess I am agreeing that torque is key, so check everything well before replacing parts.
 
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Is the crossover tube locknut torque 37 ft lbs (as per the manual) or 42? If 42, when did it change?

Thanks,

Steve
Steve, from what I understand... . 37 ft lbs new cross tube, 42 ft lbs if re-using existing. The last time I did mine I did 40 ft lbs, not knowing just how accurate my torque wrench is. Jess
 
My understanding is 42 ft\lbs is the new set point regardless of new or old. This was word of mouth update from field techs and not sure they ever put it into a bulletin. Same with the thread locker on the tube nut. Both as meant to stop potential loosening of the nuts over time and leaks at the injector\tube junction.
 
Would the 2006 year fall under these guidelines. I have a 2006 in addition to the 2001 that is shown in my profile and was wondering if these issues could be present in that year. Anyone have any diagrams or pictures of crosstubes/injectors for that year. The 2006 doesn't start as quickly as my 2001 and was thinking the issues brought up here might be part of the problem. Thank You!
 
After posting the above, I started the job of torqueing the crossover tubes. First thing out of the gate I encountered a problem. The #1 fuel line "nut" was practically seized on the crossover tube threads by rust/scale. After some careful (I thought) pulling/wiggling, it broke loose and I removed the line. Reading that some applying blue threadlocker on the tube retainer nut is a good idea, I threaded it out of the head with only minor resistance. Upon removal, I could see the very first part of its threads were boogered up ever so slightly. I cleaned them up with a small file, but it will not thread back into the head. I'm guessing my next step might have to be removing the tube itself to give more "play" to the retainer and hoping it threads in to clean up the head threads. I suppose worst case is I might have to clean the head threads up with a tap also. Does anybody know the size/thread pitch of the head threads?

Has anybody else had this problem? I'm hoping the tube retainer is made of softer metal than the head itself, so hopefully the head inner threads are OK. If I have to get a new tube retainer, does anybody have a good part # for it? Is it better to get it at the truck dealer or a Cummins dealer?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Steve
 
The 2006 doesn't start as quickly as my 2001 and was thinking the issues brought up here might be part of the problem. Thank You!



Yes, the 2006 is ripe for just this problem. FYI, the 2006 will never start as fast as the 01. It takes several more revolutions to synch everything in a CR to even fire the inejctors.





Upon removal, I could see the very first part of its threads were boogered up ever so slightly. I cleaned them up with a small file, but it will not thread back into the head.



You can try but I think you are far better off getting a new retainer nut, any thread problems are going to lead to TQ problems. It should thread down tight on the tube by hand. You could pull one from the next injector and see if it threads in to verify the threads in the head are good.



Now that you pulled it completely loose you need to pull the tube and check the end for any damage or wear lines on the end. Probably should go back thru the tightening sequence between injector and tube also.
 
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