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Front Axle U-Joints?

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Diesel Ram Owner No More

Looking for 2002 Bed and tailgate

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I could make a poster out of that photo to remind me never to leave the desert southwest, lol.



Ah, so you "missed" the whole sheet metal, pop rivets, tar, unistrut thing that my dad taught me to keep vehicles "intact". ;)



Can you tell that I grew up in upstate NY between Buffalo and Rochester, the land of rust?



I used to periodically spray sealant under the '91. So Yo Hoot I am in full agreement that it's indeed a smart thing to do. But somehow twenty years later I don't seem to get as excited about rolling around on the ground under a vehicle. Need to get a lift!



Andy
 
I was able to get about 150K out of the front u-joints on my old '03. Didn't discover them till the ball joints went bad. Both were badly worn. I replaced them with a set of Precision greasable u-joints. Because of the labor involved, I would also replace the ball joints at the same time. It all has to come apart the same way for either, so you might as well do both while you're at it.
 
i replaced the front axle ujoints on my '03 right after i bought it at 240k. i think they had been shot for a long time. the crazy part was, the ball joints and wheel bearings were nearly new. someone replaced them, but left the axle joints for me. i used the precisions due to price and availability, but i probably wouldn't do it again. as much as i like being able to grease them, i think next time i'll use the spicers.
 
IMO, a greaseable joint will outlast a sealed joint many times over- provided you grease them. True, a sealed joint may be stronger due to the absence of lube passages, but how many here have suffered from broken u-joints as opposed to those that wore out due to lack of lube?
 
as much as i like being able to grease them, i think next time i'll use the spicers.

Multiple shops have recommended against them for fitment issues. Everyone I talked to said to stick with the OEM's. Stronger and longer lasting than the greasables. The seals on sealed joints are better than greasable joints, so it's easier for dirt/grime to get into a greasable joint and they require frequent greasing to keep the clean.
 
They were still having issues when I did my kit this last spring.



Just got off the phone with George at 8Lug again... he patiently explained to me that on the front AXLE shaft u-joints, the Spicer #5006813 that I linked to above, is a direct oem replacement for the axle shaft u-joints. On the front DRIVESHAFT cardan joint and u-joints, Dodge DID use a variey of cup sizes over differnet years, even WITHIN the 3rd gen series. He is selling me a relatively newly released Spicer 1355 series ujoints (part# Spicer 5-3208X U Joint) for the Cardan joint that are a direct fit for the oem ones given the 1. 188 diameter of the cups on my cardan joint ( I measured with a micrometer, got 1,187 and figured the light layer of rust was good for the extra. 001), and also a Spicer part# 5-795X U Joint for where the front driveshaft connects to the diff yoke. If your cardan joint cups measure 1 1/16" (1. 0625) then you need the Spicer 1330 series u-joints. ALSO, many people DO use the extremely common Spicer 1350 series, but the caps ARE 10/1000" off and thus either the circlip or the cap needs to be lightly machined or sanded down. Given that the direct fit 1355 series cost only $20 more, it was a no brainer just to go with them.



... ... SO AH64ID is correct in that there ARE substantial fitment issues with Spicer u-joints and AAM axles, but by measuring and selecting carefully, and ALSO talking with 8Lug Truck Gear, you CAN get Spicers for most all the Ram applications. And the general concensus is that Spicers are top of the line when it comes to u-joints.
 
I was referring to fitment issues specific to the 5006813, they don't always fit and sometime require machining. It's the part number the local drive-line shop I ended up using stocked (1 vs 60 AAM's), and said they were having issues with. A few phone calls confirmed their results.

It's too bad that there are so many part numbers needed on the truck, why not keep it simple. Pick the joint that is the biggest for the use, and make it work for everything on both shafts.
 
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