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Guns, Bows, Shooting Sports, and Hunting So, you're looking for advice on your first AR...

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Guns, Bows, Shooting Sports, and Hunting Game Shots

By request of GHarman, to have a thread started and dedicated to building an AR style rifle. I had posted this thread on another forum, and it's a start of what GHarman wanted to see. Please note that this was originally written in Dec. 2012, and pricing has gone up a few points, and I lack the desire to do all the price point checking on the various manufacturers. Probably up a couple hundred across the board on average - THIS IS FROM THE MANUFACTURER, retailers and distributors by and large are jacking the prices up even more, so try to buy direct.







I've lost track of the number of threads I have seen on this issue, and I seem to see the same responses every time, and I post the same thing every time.



If you are just looking for an AR because of the political climate, or once a month go dump a few mags at pop cans and dirt clods, stop reading now and go buy what ever the heck you want.



If you are seriously looking into this platform and are willing to do your part, and want something that will last, keep reading.



To start with, you are on the wrong forum. This forum is primarily a Diesel Truck related, and activities revolving around that. I strongly recommend going to M4carbine.net and spend a great deal of time reading and using the search feature. If the question has been asked, or the argument held, it's in there.



First and foremost: Do your homework BEFORE you buy! Which pretty much translates into "Buy once, cry once. "



Second: Budget. You saved up $1000 for a rifle. I have some bad news for you. You don't have enough money. Sure you can go out and buy some well known cheap rifle for $600 - $800 (RRA, Stag, Bushmaster [or any of their spin offs], CMMG, DPMS) but if you think you got a smokin' deal, you didn't. You will spend another $200+ to fix known problems with them or replace parts that are of crap quality. "The Chart" that was originally compiled by Rob S. is no longer available. This is an unfortunate turn of events, and somewhere out there someone had the foresight to make a copy of it before it was removed from Tactical Yellow Adviser, and hopefully it will turn up in the other AR15 based forums. To sum it up, it clearly details a large variety of manufacturers and their rifles, what they are made of, what tests were done to key components, and what specs they meet - if any.



I'll simplify this for you. Colt, BCM, & PSA are your current top choices for an entry level rifle that is of quality, and those start at $900. This is not some "Name Brand" snobbery, this is not my opinion, this the truth. Colt has the Technical Data Package for the military's M4, BCM has done a stellar job at matching the specs, and has a proven track record to back it up, and finally PSA is up and coming, and thus far is among the top dogs in the quality and reliability race for the money spent. That is the key point. Dollar for Dollar, those three are going to get you the best quality, and reliability for the money. Both of my assemblies are bits and pieces of BCM, PSA, Vltor, Centurion, Magpul, and Midwest Industries. No snobbery here, I don't own an off the rack rifle, and never will. That's just me.



"Why don't I have enough money?"



Incidentals that people just don't think about. When you buy the rifle, that is all you got. A basic rifle and 1-3 mags. No ammo to shoot, no RDS (Red Dot Sight - not mandatory, but trust me, you will want one), no sling, no additional mags (generally 5-10 is what you want on hand ~ I'll get into that later), no weapon light (especially if you want this rifle for any personal defense reasons - another point to get a proven quality rifle).



There are only 2 or 3 manufacturers out there that make the basic accessories listed, and again, do your homework and buy quality. DON'T SKIMP! For just those 5 listed - that's $850 for an Aimpoint PRO (cheapest and best quality RDS), 500 rounds of factory 5. 56 ammo, 8 Pmags, a good 2 point sling, and a weapon light. If you shop around you may save $200 - $300 by catching sales or buying used off the equipment exchange on various forums. If you go to Ebay, make damn sure that it is the actual brand name, not an Asian knock off,or items specifically designed for Airsoft, but will fit a milspec AR.



"WOW! I only wanted to spend $1k and go shooting and now I am up to $1800 and I haven't even pulled the trigger yet! What can I do to save a little cash?"



Buying parts to assemble: Again, Do your homework BEFORE you buy!. Yes you can assemble a lower (if you have the skills and tools) cheaper than a complete, but it is near impossible to assemble an upper from parts cheaper than buying one outright. There are specific tools that you will need to do an assembly, and those cost money - you have to figure that in. Brownells has a series of videos on AR assembly and are spot on.



Benefits to assembling over buying complete: You get to pick and choose the exact parts that you want. Trigger (FCG), Bolt carrier group (BCG), Lower parts kit (LPK), Receiver extension style, Handguard or quad rail, Back Up Iron Sights (BUIS), barrel length and twist rate, muzzle device... . Most places allow you to custom build your rifle with options, but they may not be the ones you want or need. Buying a basic entry level means that you will likely be replacing things down the road like the stock, FCG, BUIS, handguard or rail... Now you have a pile of parts in a box collecting dust.



Skill: If you are the type of person that takes their vehicle to the shop for anything and everything, assembling a rifle is probably out of your skill set and you should avoid trying.



"I can't fund this kind of project. "



No biggie. Start with the basics and pick up the strays as you go. Another option if you can swing $25 a week is to get a signature loan from your bank for $1k to finish your funding. Make a $25 payment each week (real easy with direct deposit and online banking) and this will reduce the amount of interest you accrue each month. Still $100 a month payment but you are paying your loan off faster. Double bonus - if you make all the payments, you up your credit rating. I've done it 5 times myself.



"OK, I took your advice spent twice as much as I planned you jackwagon, now what?"



Go to a range and get your rifle sighted in, and get the feel for it. Don't just fling ammo down range. Fire a mag (or less), then check your target to see how you are doing. An AR in the hands of someone with rudimentary skills and irons should be able to hold a 16" group at 100y and 4" at 25. Don't burn through all your ammo. 100 rounds should be sufficient for the first trip. Pack up your toys and go home to clean your rifle (not necessary, but you should do this to learn how).



Time to go take a class. Appleseed for first time rifle shooters. You will learn tons. Now keep your eye out for an entry level carbine course. Here is where you want all the extra mags. Most entry level classes will be a 1 or 2 day session, and you will need 500 - 1k rounds of ammo (Uh Oh - there goes another $500 - $1k if it's close enough for you to commute from your home). You do not want to be That Guy holding up the class because you only have 3 mags and are constantly having to step off the line to reload. Hint - stripper clips are your friend! Read this thread about taking a training class This is a must read, and you will find yourself spending another $250+ on gear. Avoid high round count classes!. 600 a day is about the max. You want to hold yourself accountable for every single round you send downrange, and this means shooting 30, check and tape/replace your target, rinse and repeat. If you dump a hundred or more without looking to see where you hit, you not only wasted the ammo, you probably just instilled some bad habits and made a lot of noise.



"OK I read this long arse post, and I think you are an arrogant know it all and FOS. "



That may be. My first AR was assembled in Dec 2011. I just finished my second assembly Nov 2012, that one is $1900, and going to leap into the low $3k when I buy my scope. My first one started out with a budget of $1800 - no ammo. I asked questions, I received advice from well respected members on a couple of other forums, I did my research, and a month and a half later I started buying. By the time it was all said and done, I was $2700 into the project, and most of that was on sale. 3 months later I took the opportunity to take an advanced carbine course that was being held locally. I learned a great deal of the capabilities of my rifle, the reassurance that I made the correct choice in components that I bought. 30 days later there was another course and I took that too. 2400 rounds down range in one month and no failures (After Action Reports here and here). I have invested $1600 alone (class tuition and ammo) into learning about the platform and how to operate it. I am still nowhere near operator status with a lowly 7k rounds down range and 3 carbine classes in 1 year. I did however see weapons and optics fail, and they were not Colt, BCM, PSA rifles, or Aimpoint or Eotech optics.
 
Sticks,

Yeah, "Its My Fault":-laf! Exactly what I had hoped to see. A summary of your experience.

I like your tone! No nonsense!



Well my first question. I have a Ruger SR556, Piston actuated carbine.

Was wondering about accuracy expectations and your opinion on this particular platform.

Is there any remedy? Should I shoot it ,as is, rebuild it or sell and start over?

I do have an Aimpoint 5000 RDS and the factory sights, which do not co-witness but are useable through the RDS if it fails.

Thanks for stepping up on the Diesel Web site:cool:!

Respectfully, as always!

GregH
 
gunbroker is a good place to check for components. I recently purchased "something" for almost 300 under msrp while some of the local shops are still trying to pull into the extra bucks.
 
Sticks,
I've been snooping around m4carbine.net!
Thanks for the link.
I found this tidbit that could be my accuracy issue???
If the carrier is moving while the bullet is in the bore it can effect accuracy
Which could mean that the loads I am using are to SLOW for this particular application.
Or the gas system is operating to quickly, meaning I may need to use the #1 gas port setting!

Hmmm, something to think about! And another batch of Ammo coming up =)!
More reading, tomorrow night!
GregH
 
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Gharman -

I've only shot 1 piston gun (at the Mike Pannone training class) and it was a heavy SOB compared to the rest. My assemblies are not exactly light. My 16" comes in at IIRC 8. 5#, and my Mk12 is 9. 5#, both without a magazine. The general consensus is "Don't fix what aint broke". Nothing wrong with the standard/original gas system - which is in fact a piston. The only benefits that I can see with the new piston rifles is they are a tad cleaner in the chamber, especially if running suppressed.

You would need some real high speed cameras to detect if that carrier starts to move while the bullet is on it's way out. 2700 - 3200 FPS, and depending on how long your barrel is in relation to the gas port. That carrier is not going to move until that bullet passes the gas port. If it does, either your bolt is worn, barrel extension is worn, or your recoil spring is worn. Even then you probably are not going to see any appreciable difference until you get past the 400y mark. Too many other factors to worry about before you get to that point. Quality of the ammo, twist rate of the barrel for the gr. bullet you are shooting, quality and condition of the barrel, barrel nut tight, proper barrel alignment, sighting system (Irons, RDS, Scope), muzzle device, placement of said sighting system, etc.

If you truly want to know how inherently accurate your rifle is, lock it down in a shooting vise and fire 10 rounds.

By and large, the accuracy is in the shooter, given the shooter has decent equipment, consistent ammo quality, and has the skills. You can put two people behind the trigger and get 2 completely different results.

Sounds like you are doing your own reloading. Have you done any ladder loads to see what works best in your rifle? It is a time consuming PITA, but the results are worth the effort.

I load M193, and nothing leaves my press that is +/- . 2gr on the powder drop, and the sizing, COAL and crimp is also all within . 005". A buddy of mine bought a Stag last year (really wish he had consulted me first - lot of work to do to fix that one) and his groups went from 4" shooting Federal 5. 56 from the factory (retail) to 1. 5" shooting my reloads.
 
Sticks,
New Firearm, 1-9" twist, 16 1/8" barrel.
Yes I have shot it from a rest, bipods, sandbags, etc.
Tolerances on powder weight. each charge weighed and zero'ed.
Overall length fits magazine, but as important, seated to match ogive length.
Bullets loaded by lot. Different lots have different ogive dimensions.
Been doing this a LONG time!

GregH
 
gunbroker is a good place to check for components. I recently purchased "something" for almost 300 under msrp while some of the local shops are still trying to pull into the extra bucks.

I got a brand new $200+ aimpoint T-1 mount off GB for $100 delivered.
There are deals out there, but like sticks said, beware of knock-off's. If the seller is in china or hong kong, that's a red light!


Daniel defense and Centurion arms are 2 more "tier 1 manufacturer" names.
LMT (Lewis machine & tool) is another very good name also.
 
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Sticks, Well written, and no, I don't think you're FOS... I may not agree with all you wrote, but I wholeheartedly agree on the training if you're serious. You've drawn a lot of information and done a lot of research for such a short time of working on your own platforms. How long have you been working on the ARs overall?

GHarm, what have you been feeding your AR? Bullets, powder, primer?

Tubb makes some decent products, typically more aimed at competition shooters. I've used their carrier weight system on multiple rifles, with mixed results. Adjustable gas tubes are also a major consideration on reloading and tuning your rifles... ...
 
Sticks,
New Firearm, 1-9" twist, 16 1/8" barrel.
Yes I have shot it from a rest, bipods, sandbags, etc.
Tolerances on powder weight. each charge weighed and zero'ed.
Overall length fits magazine, but as important, seated to match ogive length.
Bullets loaded by lot. Different lots have different ogive dimensions.
Been doing this a LONG time!

GregH

Greg - Seems like the twist rate might bee a bit slow for the light bullets, (I can't remember all the details on the subject, I stepped away from the firearm forums due to the political climate and the infighting amongst gun owners). Even my Mk12 is a 1 in 7 for the 77gr bullet that it was designed for... but that is way outside my knowledge base.

You are at least being anal about your loads, so you would be the one to know if the accuracy is the barrel or not. An accurate long range cold shot with this platform is an absolute b**** with even slightly less than ideal conditions. My last outing with my Mk12 had a 15mph wind coming at me from about 2:00, and my holdover after elevation dope for range [600y] was still another 3' up and 8' to the right. That and I don't think my Mk12 likes my M193. I still have not had a chance to dial in my Mk277 ammo.

Sticks, Well written, and no, I don't think you're FOS... I may not agree with all you wrote, but I wholeheartedly agree on the training if you're serious. You've drawn a lot of information and done a lot of research for such a short time of working on your own platforms. How long have you been working on the ARs overall? ...

In mid 2011 I started to see an awful lot amount of ammo available, and the chatter was that pricing was really good for ammo and the platform, so I decided to cross over to the dark side. Prior to that I was pistol out to 100y then my PSL for anything past that. I swore I would never own an AR, never a fan. I did maybe 100 hours of research and discussion with persons that have been using the platform, and knew that my best bet was to assemble one out of the pick of the litter rather than buying one off the rack then having to replace components to suit my needs and wants.

Complete upper: Centurion C4 16 upper w/Vltor MUR1A Upper Receiver, Centurion C4 12 rail, Low profile gas block, A2 flash hider
Troy BUIS
Vltor A5 receiver extension with Emod stock
Aipmpoint PRO RDS
Magpul GMAID
Palmetto State Armory auto BCG, FCG, lower receiver
Troy ambi bolt release and safety
Magpul AFG
Streamlight TLRS1
Blue Force Gear VTAC sling
Mags and other incidentals.

I bought the complete upper, then assembled the rest from what I knew would suit my needs. My MK12 was a complete assembly centered around the Centurion MK12 barrel. Still waiting for a proper scope.

... Daniel defense and Centurion arms are 2 more "tier 1 manufacturer" names.
LMT (Lewis machine & tool) is another very good name also.

There are several other "Tier 1" manufacturers out there, and you will pay dearly for that name, but you do get what you pay for. The target for my list in the OP was for the first timers, or those that want to step up a bit but not break the bank, and still come out ahead of the hype names like Bushmaster, Stag, DPMS, Olympic... Those that claim to be the best and use terms like Mil Spec, Law Enforcement, Spec Ops... Even when Troy came out with their own rifle (it looked really promising, and they had a reputation for quality components), I was really disappointed in the fit & finish, and had concerns with quality so I walked away.
 
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Velocity is a huge consideration in bullet choice and twist. Since your pretty much limited to the . 223 chambering, 1:9 twist will "possibly" go up to 69 gr bullets. A good barrel with shoot it, while a poor barrel may not completely stabilize it. Lilja recommends a 1:9" twist barrel for up to 75gr bullets... ... I've not had good luck with that combination, just like 1:8" twist for 80gr bullets. Krieger has made me some 1:7. 5 twist barrels that work good for 80gr bullets, but not for 90gr... . Granted, that's for match use, loading single shot, in competition. The platforms were never meant to shoot that way, IMO.



So, for my personal use, I prefer a 1:8 or 1:7 twist. They'll usually shoot a variety of ammo well, if the barrel is any good. I've had really consistent results using adjustable gas tubes, handloads, and quality barrels from Krieger or Lilja. I think too many people put too much value on the parts surrounding the barrel, and it often gets overlooked, while it is the most important part of the system, IMO, as it actually does the work of guiding the projectile... . Granted, for self defense, there is less concern over accuracy, but I want to hit what I aim at. Ammo is expensive!! Cold shots are not a problem with a good combination of quality barrel and ammo. Adjusting the gas tube down so it reduces the amount of gas used to work the BCG reduces carbon fouling, wear on the bolt, and sometimes felt recoil. I suppose it could be argued that a 1:9 twist is ideal for a sportsman, as it will shoot down to about a 40gr bullet, but up to a 69, giving the operator more flexibility in ammo choice, an important consideration in today's market.



Sticks, on the Centurion upper, who makes the barrels?
 
HH, Fn makes their CHF barrels... ... ... . Unless it's their Mk12. The Mk12 barrels are the same supplier as the military. Which is a button rifled Douglas blank. IIRC
 
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Compass Lake makes the MK12 barrel, and it is the exact same barrel that is issued to the military in their MK12s, and I want to say the same for all their - Centurion - barrels. Both have the Centurion roll mark. I am not 100% on their other than MK12 though. I would have to try to get a hold of Monty to find out, presuming he is not deployed.
 
From Compass Lake's website... ... http://www.compasslake.com/barrels.htm
"No matter how much you shoot, no matter how much load development you do, or how much you dry fire, you can never shoot any better than the intrinsic accuracy of your barrel. Making a barrel that will always challenge you to shoot better and better is our primary mission at Compass Lake Engineering.

We buy only the best barrel blanks from successful, respected barrel makers. The great majority of the barrels we finish are from Krieger or Douglas blanks. We routinely produce Douglas barrels in Chrome Moly and Stainless Steel. We carry the premium Krieger barrels in stainless steel only. We buy only barrel blanks and do all of the work ourselves.

A barrel blank is both ugly and a thing of beauty. You have heard the cliché that beauty is only skin deep but ugly is to the bone... well it is the opposite in a barrel blank. The real beauty of these blanks is the superb job the manufacturers do in turning a simple hole into a precision system of lands and groves. The dimensions and clearances of these precision 'holes' are carefully checked by the manufacturers before the blanks make the trip to CLE. Of course we verify those dimensions. "

Well, at least we think alike. It appears the other Centurion barrels are cold hammer forged... . :cool:
 
Was considering 2 more weak spots that I missed.
The scope and the scope mount! The scope mount being the most likely suspect. A Nikon . 223 one piece mount. Not sure that it fit the Pic rail, properly.
The scope had previously been on a target rifle and had shown outstanding performance.
That system has been removed, temporarily. I have the RDS mounted and will start over with that sighting system
It has a 3MOA red dot. However, those of you who are familiar with creating concentric circles with Aperture front and rear sights around a round Bullseye, understand how a circular red dot can be a precise method of aiming at a black bullseye! Anyway, as soon as I can break free, I will give it a try!

HHhuntitall, I'll have to start over with my tests.

Sticks, I did join the m4carbine.net

Nothing more to report, until then!

Thanks a Bunch!
GregH
 
About Palmetto state armory...
They like most others contract out their parts.
Their bolt carrier groups are made by Toolcraft Marion NC. (Mil contractor)
Their small parts and lower parts kits are made by L. W. Schneider (mil contractor)
Their hammer forged barrels are made by FN (mil contractor)
Their std barrels are made by Wilson arms of Ct. (NOT wilson combat)
Their lowers are/were made by Aero precision and it's suspected their uppers are too.
I believe they have a new lower/upper supplier being L W Schneider. (this is my speculation)

This has all (except my speculation) been confirmed by PSA themselves on the internet.
 
Took my Ruger SR556 to the range, yesterday.
With the Aimpoint optics RDS mounted and 2 boxes of Factory 62 Gr. Ammo.
The Winchester 62 Gr lead core group was 2" at 100 yards. The 62 Gr. Federal M-855 was 5" X 3" high at 100.
Further testing with other ammo, duplicated previous results.
I did find that the feeding ramps on this rifle damage the bullet nose. I was using a Magpul, Gen3, 10 round magazine. On a semiautomatic rifle, one seldom looks at a loaded round that is removed from the chamber, unfired. However, I loaded my magazine with 1 extra round so I would have to clear the rifle, to make it safe. The ejected round had scarring and burrs on the bullet ogive and nose! This occurred with 3 types of ammunition! This could be the problem? What do you think?
GregH
 
In my opinion, it is very likely it is affecting the accuracy some. My M1A does the same thing with 168gr SMKs, when feeding from the right side of the magazine. It will shoot 1/2 MOA while single loading, but when fed from the magazine, it goes to 1+ MOA..... Looking at loaded rounds is when we saw the locking lug was leaving a scar down the bullet while ramping, but only from the right side of the mag... Left side clears, so it shoots straight. It's predictable and I can replicate the problem... .
 
Nice write up.

The only thing I would add is my own personal experience. Like yourself, I swore never to go down this path. In the end, I couldn't help it due to the sheer weight of "that" community on shooting in general. I researched, asked questions and in the end, fell upon a stainless 20" DPMS Panther in the high $600 that had a clip or two through it. For that money, I have learned a lot that could never be gleaned from building my own; in a nutshell, after a couple thousand rounds down the barrel, I am closer to understanding the "why' and "what" of the build that I planned as a novice.

I would also add that I think this discussion could be enhanced by a cost/benefit analysis as you initially addressed in the beginning of your write up. To get to two MOA with one of these EBR's is a feat. To get closer to an MOA rifle is not only a bigger deal, but also more costly. With that said though, I am slowly learning the fundamentals with this and my other rifles, something wholly to do not necessarily with money, (excepting ammo) but time and commitment to being disciplined and taking the time to shoot A LOT and pay attention to what the weapon is telling you.
 
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