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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Junk yard off road suspension

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) just a question

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission new seats for a 99 quad cab

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I just purchased a very clean low mile 94 single cab with a leveling kit. It rides very stiff. I want o make this my back country exploring truck so I will not be towing heavy or be loaded heavy. I am looking for some softer rate springs that will still give a little lift (2in or so) that I can get out of the junk yard. I don't have big money to spend. Do you think the 2500 gas engine front springs would work? With the leveling kit it looks like it is about 4" higher than most other diesels. Don't know if that is because it is a single cab. It has the 4:10's from the factory so it might have the snow plow springs. How can I tell?



I am also thinking of replacing the rear springs with 1/2 tons. I will put the day star air bag plate on it so I can keep the air bags but they won't limit my suspension travel. What do you guys think?



Also thinking of doing a short bed conversion. I have a 12 2500 ram for all my towing duties. Just looking for a rig that is good on fuel and very reliable.



Sorry for all the questions but I have one more. There is what looks like a mounting location from the transfer case to the crossmember but there is nothing in there. Is this a missing parr? It looks like the transfer case is just dangling from the back of the trans and I don't want it to snap off.
 
The old Skyjacker D25 "leveling" coils in the front will ride about the same a stock, but sometimes give you about 1" higher ride height in the front. "Cool from the Old Skool" as some would say... . many off road racing trucks sit like that, but some people don't like it for street use.

If the whole truck is sitting that much higher, I'm guessing it has more than a leveling kit. Quite possibly it has a 3-4" lift kit in it. Or, someone has built some tall spacers for the coil springs and compressed them to where they aren't really working correctly.

The diesel is heavy---there are some aftermarket kits that offer exactly what you're looking for, but they aren't cheap. For the rear, I don't see a reason why a lighter rate spring wouldn't work, as long as they fit correctly.

The shortbox thing would be kinda cool.
 
I think it would be very cool. I am going to section a part of the frame out just like they did for the UA super duty this year. I will have to keep looking for my front springs. The front spacers are only 2". I checked them. I will post pictures on monday when I pick up the truck. I am surprised I found one with only 126,000 miles.
 
Closely inspect the front spring pockets welded to the frame. They tended to crack and Dodge offered a reinforcement kit for them; your truck might already have it.
 
Closely inspect the front spring pockets welded to the frame. They tended to crack and Dodge offered a reinforcement kit for them; your truck might already have it.
The part # for the reinforcement brackets CBGR8351 and if you need the complete tower it is CBBR8352
 
Thanks. Bob4x4 how do you like your Carli suspension. Does it flex well? I am not looking for a go fast setup. More of a flexy type setup.
 
Here you go.

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Thanks. Bob4x4 how do you like your Carli suspension. Does it flex well? I am not looking for a go fast setup. More of a flexy type setup.

Love my Carli suspension on both trucks. The 94 is a slower version-smaller shocks flexes nice for an 8800lb gvw truck

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Front sway bar yes. I had added the camper pkg when I was running an overhead camper but removed it when I got rid of the camper
 
What you describe(trans mount on trans-nothing for transfer case) is how they are built. In extreme abusive conditions I have seen the cases crack enough to leak and in one case where towing heavy at low rpm actual separation in the case. I have not seen a well engineered solution yet.
 
Nice looking truck. Have fun with it.



Looking at the picture, the springs appear after market, but there could be a spacer under the springs, as well. Typically, the two reasons the Dodges don't ride, is poor shocks or too much lift. The springs could have too heavy a rate, but I can't help you there.



The shocks are an easy fix. If you want a lot of flex and off road use, go with the KYB or Fox Racing reservoir shocks.



The problem with too much lift is the four link is out of geometry. The axle is moving forward and back, as well as up and down. The control arms are too short for much over 1. 5-2" of lift. That one looks like 4" or so. If it has the stock control arms, they are also pretty weak, IMO. If you research it some, there are several companies that make springs, and you can make your own 4 link tubes, if you want. Moving the linkage back makes a world of difference, in both ride and travel. Skyjacker and Superlift both used to offer great kits for these trucks. I had a 6" Fabtech I bought out of a wrecking yard, and that kit was awesome!! The upper arm bolted to the frame where the lower arm used to, and the lower arm was moved back and connected to a bracket at the rear crossmember. It was a great kit, IMO.



As for the transfer case, there are a couple of bandaid fixes out there. If you don't go with too much of a lift, it will work okay if you don't put too much power through it. The problem originates from driveshaft angles. The only good fix I've found is to put a bolt on yoke on it. The easiest way to do that is to put a Ford T-case in there with a bolt on yoke, and add a slip yoke to your new driveshaft. That makes sure the slip is straight under a load, and not pushing upward, trying to twist it's way out of place. The T-case mounting is usually not what I see broken. The tailhousing has a bushing pressed in it, and that is what usually gets worn and causes misalignment, and eventually failure.
 
Thanks for the info. I will have a much better idea in the morning about the front springs.

The long arm kits I have seen are all for 4" and up. I would be looking for something around 2". I plan on big tires and only a leveling kit. I want to get this truck to be reliable for trails like the Rubicon. I already have a blazer on one tons and 40's with 2" of lift. That is the direction I want to go with this one.
 
Bob and HH have been there and done that; their advice is worth listening to. Constant velocity joints help with bigger driveline angles, but can't fix the extreme cases.
 
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