pinging noise from front passenger area, turbo? wastegate?

[pdodge]

Hey guys first time post, been a dodge 5. 9 owner for about 4 years... Truck is stock 2005, 2WD.



What I'm experiencing is more of a pinging sound that is metallic in nature, that only happens when under load... when towing for example. it's a very quick rapping sound that doesn't sound like turbo whistle or bark. . more like bad injectors... it happens at higher RPMs only, and isn't constant. . can come and go. .



The interesting part is, I just had my injectors done by F1 Diesel, and the noise is still there. . Valve lash adjusted as well, no change.



can a bad wastegate cause this? seems to happen when the turbo is under higher boost pressures... but I don't have a gauge or anything.



I removed the intake yesterday and could see the impeller blades, there was some play in the shaft but nothing too much out of spec. .



Before I take it to the dealer and get offered a new turbo, what else should I check?

 

[rscurtis]

Make sure you don't have any leaky exhaust manifold gaskets.

 

[AMink]

Make sure you don't have any leaky exhaust manifold gaskets.

I have the same sound in my '06. At about the same time my Jake Brake started making noises too. I can see carbon around the exhaust manifold; never thought too much of it. That would make sense that the brake can't work right if the pressure is blowing out through the exhaust gasket. How hard is that to fix?

 

[cerberusiam]

Depending on mileage and use, it is likely injectors either getting worn or carboning up. Mine did the same thing until I changed injectors, the old were noisy all the time and worse when cold or under load.

 

[AMink]

Depending on mileage and use, it is likely injectors either getting worn or carboning up. Mine did the same thing until I changed injectors, the old were noisy all the time and worse when cold or under load.

Hopefully it's the much cheaper and easier to fix gaskets. I'll start there and move up the $$ scale.

 

[pdodge]

OP here, I changed my injectors. . so that can be eliminated from the mix.

any other ideas?

 

[fkovalski]

I have been going through something similar... I cannot necessarily say the pinging was coming from the passenger side, but it was pinging nonetheless. I am still beta testing the latest round of trials to sovle my issues (to which I will report back to the folks who have helped me along... ) But I will toss this idea out as I am trying it:

Perhaps try installing a new thermostat.

I only changed mine this past weekend... I will report back in time as to if this was my issue. I am suspecting that my truck was not getting up to proper operating temperature and maybe causing more carbon build-up than normal. After a dealer injector cleaning service, valve adjust, new CP-3, new turbo and new injectors my truck was running worse than ever! The shop that did my injectors pulled and tested them and they were fine, but VERY fouled on the outside but not on the inside. They cleaned and reinstalled them and there was a slight change for the better but there is still knocking and detonation sounds.

After 2 days with the new T-stat I am noticing an even slight improvement and I am wondering if I need to now drive it at temperature with load and distance to burn out any excessive build-up. I will reserve judgement as to this being the solution to my problem...

... but you may want to give it a try. A thermostat is cheap and easy to install.

I think I read here of someone who described similar problems and they changed the thermostat.

 

[cerberusiam]

OP here, I changed my injectors. . so that can be eliminated from the mix.

Unfortunately, not true at all. Changing injectors is no guarantee combustion rattle will go away, some injectors will make it worse.

If you have a rattle that comes and goes with engine load injectors are the most common source.

 

[pdodge]

UPDATE:

Took my truck in to a local shop after I worried myself sick that my turbo was going out... Turned out to be a blown exhaust gasket at cylinder 6 and a warped manifold. Fixed the awful sound I was hearing. .

Anyway, truck certainly does have a different "sound" with the new F1 tips... sounds more raspy...

cheers

 

[AMink]

UPDATE:

Took my truck in to a local shop after I worried myself sick that my turbo was going out... Turned out to be a blown exhaust gasket at cylinder 6 and a warped manifold. Fixed the awful sound I was hearing. .

Anyway, truck certainly does have a different "sound" with the new F1 tips... sounds more raspy...

cheers

Same here. I had a few leaks at the exhaust manifold. Took it off and it had "shrunk". Put a new BD on and (after much leak checking at the exhaust/turbo and turbo/exhaust brake) BAM! No more funky noises. Better turbo response and the truck sounds "right" again!

 

[pdodge]

Yep. Mine had shrunk too. Interesting how that works. My mechanic put an oem manifold on mine.

 

[fkovalski]

I am wondering perhaps if I need to look into this as a possible reason for my truck. Some questions if I may:

• Are the exhaust leaks very evident. Will I obviously see/ hear it if I look for them... or are these slight leaks that were hard to find... and the most obvious way to truly know that this was the problem was by the results of doing this repair and installing the new manifold?
  

• Were you still getting "OK" power or is an exhaust leak accompanied by a very noticeable drop in power?
  

(BTW- I will report back on results if my thermostat replacement is my issue as I alluded to above- I want to get more miles on it. It is running better as a result, but there is still something not quite right with how my truck is running, hence me paying interest to this topic. )



Thanks!

 

[pdodge]

I was getting "OK" power, yes... But after the repair it's quite evident I have more snap in the throttle especially at higher speed. The exhaust leak was evident, once the mechanic showed me the discoloration next to the port. But it did take a flashlight to make it pop. . My untrained eye would never have caught it.

 

[AMink]

I had the same power but noticed the turbo was quicker with the leaks fixed. It was obvious on mine that there was soot coming out around the gaskets onto the block. Between 1 & 2 and again between 4 & 5. My biggest concern was the funky noise when the exhaust brake was on. With the back pressure I'm sure there was exhaust squeezing out at the manifold/block and I'm pretty sure it was leaking between the turbo/exhaust brake.

 

[fkovalski]

OK, this is 'prolly going to sound like a stupid question, but does one check for an exhaust leak on a Cummins the same way one would do it on a gasser? That is, do I hold a rag at the tailpipe? I would think that the force of the exhaust and the diameter of the tailpipe would make this method somewhat difficult. I would think I might need a pillow with a ratchet strap to hold it in place... perhaps a bit exaggerated, but you get the gist of my question.

 

[rscurtis]

Just look for a soot stain. Even a new clean diesel produces plenty of soot before the exhaust hits the DPF. It's more difficult on a gasser because the exhaust should be invisible coming out of the cylinders.

 

[AMink]

I just waiting until it was cold and fired it up. Before everything got hot I spraying soapy water on it. Bubbles tell the rest.

 

[fkovalski]

How much of a leak is needed to cause the issues discussed here?



I just checked mine using the soapy water spray bottle method and there is a definite leak at the forward cylinder. The leak is oblivious and I only checked the manifold at idle. It seemed like a very small leak, but a leak nonetheless. Will this small exhaust leak cause performance issues as discussed here even though seemingly such a slight leak?



Thanks.

 

[fkovalski]

Well, when I first did the soap water check as noted above, the first try was only by myself and the truck was only able to show a slight leak forward of the number 1 cylinder at idle only. I re-checked with the help of an assistant. When re-checking, my helper brought it up to about 2,000 RPM with the truck parked with no load. Both sides of number 1 as well as the forward side of number 6 now bubbled soap at the higher idle RPM.

Can I assume that the leaks are worse under load (I base this on how my boost gage reacts under different conditions and loads, roads, etc... )

I also feel that under loads there perhaps is a very real chance that other cylinders could very well have leaks that I cannot determine in a parked, idle condition. More work by the engine under load = higher boost gage readings: more pressure = worse known leaks as well as possible undetermined leaks.
In reading the replies in this thread I feel that I will need to fix this problem based on my findings.

From what I have read, it might be good for me to change out to the 2 piece aftermarket manifold.

 

[AMink]

Well, when I first did the soap water check as noted above, the first try was only by myself and the truck was only able to show a slight leak forward of the number 1 cylinder at idle only. I re-checked with the help of an assistant. When re-checking, my helper brought it up to about 2,000 RPM with the truck parked with no load. Both sides of number 1 as well as the forward side of number 6 now bubbled soap at the higher idle RPM.

Can I assume that the leaks are worse under load (I base this on how my boost gage reacts under different conditions and loads, roads, etc... )

I also feel that under loads there perhaps is a very real chance that other cylinders could very well have leaks that I cannot determine in a parked, idle condition. More work by the engine under load = higher boost gage readings: more pressure = worse known leaks as well as possible undetermined leaks.
In reading the replies in this thread I feel that I will need to fix this problem based on my findings.

From what I have read, it might be good for me to change out to the 2 piece aftermarket manifold.

Sounds like it's doing the shrinking thing. Pulling in from both ends.