Quick rundown of my front diff seal replacement with pics..

[Yo Hoot]

2004 2500.

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Mark the mating flanges and remove the bolts at the yoke.

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Tap the flanges apart. Once you have the front part of the shaft disconnected, it's a good idea to tie wrap it to the frame to get it out of the way. No need to unbolt the transfer case side.

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Mark the nut to the pinion. CAUTION... ... this only works if re-using the original nut. A new nut will not be identical to the old one with respect to where the threads start and total nut height.

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You can also take a reading with a vernier.

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Using a 32mm thin wall socket, remove the nut.

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Pull the yoke.

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Remove the old seal with a screwdriver. You can get behind the flange of the seal at the very outer edges and tap it out, going around and around.

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Wipe the surfaces clean where the new seal goes. The new seal has sealing compound on it's outer surface
so the mating surface needs to be clean. Install the new seal. I used a wooden block. Try to slowly get it started
evenly and tap it around so it enters relatively even.

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At this point it is advisable to put some thread sealant on the splines as they can be a leak point. They were originally gooped up from the factory.

Also since we are re-using the nut, it would be a good idea to use some blue loctite on the threads.

Install the yoke, the inside thick washer and the nut. Tighten it back to the original marks and depth.
Re-install the driveshaft.

The whole process took me a couple of hours but I don't have everything at my fingertips. Every stage I'm walking around looking for something. If I was to do this again and had everything I needed when I started it would probably only take a half hour total.




.

 

[CPittman]

Awesome stuff, Yo Hoot, as usual. Thank you for the excellent write-up. What brand is that gear puller you're using? My front pinion seal is leaking again. With your pictures and a puller I might be able to get this done myself. OBTW, Your truck is a lot prettier under there than my 04.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Awesome stuff, Yo Hoot, as usual. Thank you for the excellent write-up. What brand is that gear puller you're using? My front pinion seal is leaking again. With your pictures and a puller I might be able to get this done myself. OBTW, Your truck is a lot prettier under there than my 04.

Thanks.

Have no idea of the brand puller. Something I've had laying around for at least 25 years. Any standard puller will work. It's (yoke) not on there tight. It's the sealant on the splines that makes it a little hard to get off. I prefer using a puller over a hammer if I can.

I spray the underside with black rust transformer paint wherever I see rust breaking out. Do tha about once or twice a year. Only takes a few minutes each time.

That impact wrench is a cheap electric one from Harbor Freight. It really does a job for what it is.

 

[crispyboy]

Thanks for the nice write up with pics.

I have to do this job pretty soon. Right now the differential shows signs of some wetness but not an actual leak.
I read the manual on how do this job. Aren't you supposed to remove the calipers, pull the axle shafts, take a reading with torque guage and use a new nut amongst other things? I was under the impression that you needed to be precise with the how much the nut is tightened up. Mind you I am just a shade tree and do not wrench for a living. I have a lot of respect for those who do.
The dealer wants $125 to do this job. They must be using some type of shortcut to do it at that price.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Thanks for the nice write up with pics.

I have to do this job pretty soon. Right now the differential shows signs of some wetness but not an actual leak.
I read the manual on how do this job. Aren't you supposed to remove the calipers, pull the axle shafts, take a reading with torque guage and use a new nut amongst other things? I was under the impression that you needed to be precise with the how much the nut is tightened up. Mind you I am just a shade tree and do not wrench for a living. I have a lot of respect for those who do.
The dealer wants $125 to do this job. They must be using some type of shortcut to do it at that price.

There are two ways to do this job. Both ways are fine as long as each is done properly.

If you decide to use a new pinion nut than yes, you need to pull the axles so you can put an inch-pound torque wrench on the pinion to set the bearing preload. Basically you remove the front driveshaft, remove the pinion nut and yoke, do everything required to pull the two front axles. Change the seal out and using both the big socket and breaker bar, tighten the new nut until it takes whatever the spec inch-pounds to turn the pinion. You will also need a means of locking the yoke as you tighten the nut.

The easier way and for $125, I'm pretty sure the dealer is doing it as I described in my writeup. $125 is cheap but I would rather do the job myself because who knows who is and what knowledge the tech has.

 

[CBari]

What is the best way to tell if it is the front diff seeping or the engine blow by making the front diff wet.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Easy, You can see an obvious oil trail coming directly from under the yoke, running down to the bottom of the diff and dripping on your driveway.

 

[JDinNY]

Great writeup with pics hoot!
Nice info

 

[Got HO?]

2004 2500.



#ad










Mark the mating flanges and remove the bolts at the yoke.



#ad








Tap the flanges apart. Once you have the front part of the shaft disconnected, it's a good idea to tie wrap it to the frame to get it out of the way. No need to unbolt the transfer case side.



#ad






Mark the nut to the pinion. CAUTION... ... this only works if re-using the original nut. A new nut will not be identical to the old one with respect to where the threads start and total nut height.



#ad








You can also take a reading with a vernier.



#ad








Using a 32mm thin wall socket, remove the nut.



#ad










Pull the yoke.



#ad




#ad




#ad










Remove the old seal with a screwdriver. You can get behind the flange of the seal at the very outer edges and tap it out, going around and around.



#ad




#ad












Wipe the surfaces clean where the new seal goes. The new seal has sealing compound on it's outer surface

so the mating surface needs to be clean. Install the new seal. I used a wooden block. Try to slowly get it started

evenly and tap it around so it enters relatively even.



#ad




At this point it is advisable to put some thread sealant on the splines as they can be a leak point. They were originally gooped up from the factory.



Also since we are re-using the nut, it would be a good idea to use some blue loctite on the threads.



Install the yoke, the inside thick washer and the nut. Tighten it back to the original marks and depth.

Re-install the driveshaft.



The whole process took me a couple of hours but I don't have everything at my fingertips. Every stage I'm walking around looking for something. If I was to do this again and had everything I needed when I started it would probably only take a half hour total.









.

Did you use a dealer supplied seal or an aftermarket seal?

 

[Yo Hoot]

Dealer. I think it was $30 something.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

TDR Issue 67, p. 80 also covers replacement of the seal.

 

[Yo Hoot]

TDR Issue 67, p. 80 also covers replacement of the seal.

Thanks Joe. Does that article use a new nut and the full axle removal technique?

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

No. I re-used the nut with blue Loctite, marked the pinion stem, nut, and flange with yellow paint, re-tightened to a hair past the mark.

 

[Got HO?]

I've replaced mine multiple times using the OP's method and dealer supplied seals. I finally sourced a seal from NAPA and it cured the leak. It's been leak free for about 130k miles now. I think I must have installed 5 or 6 dealer supplied seals.

 

[LarryWaddell]

Napa huh? I've had mine done twice with dealer seals, still leaks. I'll try the Napa seal.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Its possible that if a different manufacturer's seal puts the wiper into a slightly different position, it will ride on an unworn area of the yoke. Also, remember, it can leak through the splines if it's not sealed well there.
In addition, if the job was not done properly, as in the proper cleaning of the bore before installing the new seal, it may leak around there.

 

[Got HO?]

Napa huh? I've had mine done twice with dealer seals, still leaks. I'll try the Napa seal.

Its possible that if a different manufacturer's seal puts the wiper into a slightly different position, it will ride on an unworn area of the yoke. Also, remember, it can leak through the splines if it's not sealed well there.
In addition, if the job was not done properly, as in the proper cleaning of the bore before installing the new seal, it may leak around there.

All good points. The pinion flange was in good condition on mine, clean and not grooved. I just think I had a run of bad seals. Was buying them 2 at a time at one point. Tried the NAPA seal as a last resort and its been fine.

 

[jdross440]

What sealer did you use on the splines?