Coolant flush on a 3rd Gen.

[Perrymedic]

Since I am doing mine this weekend. . So to be clear no need for any additive? I too am using the Zyrex G-05 also. Awesome write up!

 

[AH64ID]

No additive needed.

 

[WStrmiska]

In the process of changing the antifreeze and changed thermostat with a Murray Plus #4289 rated for 192 to 195 deg. from what the counter person said. The first flush I used straight distilled water and drove about 5 miles to get the temp up. The thermostat seemed to operate ok, I got hot air inside the cab. The second flush I drove another 5 miles, I used straight distilled water again, the engine temp went up to about 210-215 deg but I could only get cool air inside the cab, I had the temp control turned up hi inside the cab. When I drained the water from the radiator the first few minuted the water was cool but got hot as the radiator emptyed. The thermostat housing was hot also. Is this normal? Whats got me concerned is the engine temp going to 215 deg. but no hot air in the cab plus will the engine get hot without antifreeze. I thought I better stop and get some feed back from you guys. This is my first fluid change as you can tell and I will be using Zerex G-05 antifreeze . Any answers greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[rscurtis]

Your cooling system was air bound after the second change. Operating your heater controls has no effect on the water flow, other than to verify that water is being pumped through the heater core. As a rule, I measure what quantities I drain out, so I know when the system is refilled. IMO, I would use the OEM thermostat if it was working OK.

 

[WStrmiska]

rscurtis, I put back in my original thermostat and this will be my third flush, still using straight distilled water. I drained about 3-3 1/2 gal. on my 2nd. flush. How do you purge the air out or do you. I also changed my water pump with a Master Pro Select pump. Any pros or cons on this pump, made in Mexico. Thanks again.

 

[rscurtis]

I haven't examined the OEM thermostat in my truck, I never had the need to. However, it is possible that the OEM part will have a bleeder in it that the aftermarket part may not. I had that issue once on my sister's '91 Voyager with the 2. 5 4-cylinder engine.



As far as the WP is concerned, I can't comment on your choice. When I needed a pump for mine, I wanted to use the truck the next day, and the local dealer had it in stock. I paid the parts manager's salary for that day.

 

[AH64ID]

There are 2 bleeders in the OEM thermostat.

I would replace the OEM thermostat with every coolant flush. Unless you are always towing heavy the OEM thermostats wear out much faster than one would think. The large size of the cooling system keeps the thermostat from going full open under normal driving, even towing. My normal GCW is 15-16K when going camping and in over 3K miles of towing this summer my thermostat only went full open 8-10 times. This leads to wear spots and a weaker spring, which leads to delayed reaction, temp fluctuation, and higher operating temps.

 

[Prairie Dog]

AH64ID (tempted to use "AD" ) I can tell when my stat opens but it's beyond me to tell whether it's fully or partially opened. How do you tell?

 

[AH64ID]

AH64ID (tempted to use "AD" ) I can tell when my stat opens but it's beyond me to tell whether it's fully or partially opened. How do you tell?

I am using a SGII and monitor the coolant temp with from the ECM. 3rd gen stats open at 190° ± 3° and go full open at 207°.



Before I replace my original thermostat I would see 197-205° on the initial open, cruised about 195-197°, and would pull hills at 212-213°. I put a new stat in and it opens at 193-195°, cruises at 191-193°, and pull most hills at 198-202°. If its hot out and a decent grade in 6th I can hit 213°, but it's not as easy as it was with my original thermostat. I replaced the thermostat at 52K miles.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I am using a SGII and monitor the coolant temp with from the ECM. 3rd gen stats open at 190° ± 3° and go full open at 207°.



Before I replace my original thermostat I would see 197-205° on the initial open, cruised about 195-197°, and would pull hills at 212-213°. I put a new stat in and it opens at 193-195°, cruises at 191-193°, and pull most hills at 198-202°. If its hot out and a decent grade in 6th I can hit 213°, but it's not as easy as it was with my original thermostat. I replaced the thermostat at 52K miles.

Interesting - thx.

 

[WStrmiska]

Thanks guys for the help, greatly appreciated.

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Thanks so much for the write up AH64ID, good stuff. Did the flush yesterday, just in time for winter today.

BTW, the cost of the coolant is significantly more than what you originally posted.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[GBergen]

Hi AH64ID,

Thanks for your post! We will need to meet some day to swap stories, I'm in Caldwell.



I'd like to offer these suggestions for the transferring of the old Anti-freeze into the gallon jugs. I thought about a more reusable method to vent the gallons while pouring, considering the number of times I would be refilling the gallon jugs.

Here are a couple of pictures to explain the use if a bit of wire which does the same thing as your toothpick.

Here it is installed:

In order to reduce the amount of spillage, I used another 5 gallon pal to retain the gallon jug while pouring. I could then capture most of any that overflowed.

Thanks, again for your time in preparing the write-ups.

Best of luck in whatever happens.

 

[Shamp]

At those temps why would you want to lower your coolant temp? 212 is the perfect temp for pretty much every diesel that exists. It runs better, helps keeps deposits in your engine down, and helps prevent scale build up in your coolant passages.


Also on an interesting side note about antifreeze and how to dispose of it. The two main ingredients in antifreeze are water and ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. Those are also the ingredients for shampoo. And where does shampoo go once its used... .

 

[Shamp]

There was another post recently regarding coolant filters for the ISB engines. I

called the Cummins answer line and they stated that the only reason to use the filter

is for the addition of additives for cylinder liners which, as mentioned above, we

do not have. We also do not need anodes. They are for marine applications only.

Your hard earned dollars would be better spent on something else.

Thanks AH64ID for the coolant system write up.

Additives benefit more than just cavitation. Additives benefit the entire coolant system. Corrosion, hoses, water pump, and mostly scale build up. 1/16 inch of scale in your coolant passages will insulate equivalent of 4 inch's of cast iron. Im not making up the scale number that was from Cummins. Water filters are used with the 5. 9 engine in many ag and industrial applications where prices/competition are not the same factor as in consumer level pickups. But with the use of quality extended life coolant and distilled water alot of those additives are in the quality coolant. The filters with additive make it so you don't have to replace the coolant as often. Just use the right size additive filter for your size coolant system. Quality coolants also don't have silicates. Silicates is fancy talk for dirt, basically.

 

[LHirshman]

I have a question or two about flushing and refilling the cooling system. I have 100K on my '05 and figure it is time to change the coolant. Removing the radiator cap for the first time, the coolant is still orange with a light film coating the inside of the radiator. What is this film, it kind of has the consistency of algae?

Since the reason to replace coolant is to renew the additives, is it necessary to flush the system? Would simply draining and refilling suffice?

I plan to use Zerex G05 as it meets Chrysler's MS-9769 specification.

 

[jwduke]

I have a question or two about flushing and refilling the cooling system. I have 100K on my '05 and figure it is time to change the coolant. Removing the radiator cap for the first time, the coolant is still orange with a light film coating the inside of the radiator. What is this film, it kind of has the consistency of algae?

Since the reason to replace coolant is to renew the additives, is it necessary to flush the system? Would simply draining and refilling suffice?

I plan to use Zerex G05 as it meets Chrysler's MS-9769 specification.

I did the 1st 2 flushes like the instructions say to do, then I put 2 bottles of Prestone System Flush in, and drove it for a week. I then drained, a lot of "crud" came out. I continued with 3 more distilled water flushes. I found O'Rilley Auto is the cheapest for the anti-freeze. Not all stores have it or can order it. I looked on line, and it told me that the nearest store was in the town where I worked. It was $17. 99 a gallon. Good luck!

 

[AH64ID]

Since only about 60-70% of the coolant comes out in a drain I recommend a flush.

 

[abdiver]

Since only about 60-70% of the coolant comes out in a drain I recommend a flush.

I read your post last year now ready do change my coolant so am reviewing this thread, Question what do you mean in above comment " I recommend a flush" do you mean one should add a product to the distilled water after you initally drain existing coolant or ???

Thanks Bill

 

[AH64ID]

I read your post last year now ready do change my coolant so am reviewing this thread, Question what do you mean in above comment " I recommend a flush" do you mean one should add a product to the distilled water after you initally drain existing coolant or ???

Thanks Bill

I mean that I would drain it, and refill with distilled water several times to get as much old coolant out as possible.

Then add the appropriate number of non-concentrate gallons of coolant, and then top off with distilled water.