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2011 3500 ST ignition switch

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Question, I have had some issues with my ignition switch on my 2011 3500 SRW ST Ram. There are times, inconsistent and always at worst moments, when I put the key in the ignition and it won't turn. It is dash mounted, not steering column, when it does this, it acts like the steering wheel is being turned against the switch preventing it from turning, until you turn the wheel to free it.
Sometimes it takes 20-30 minutes before the key will turn in the switch. I do not have auto start or remote door lock/unlock, neither does the key have a transponder chip.
Has anyone else had this issue? Does anyone have any information as to how to remove the ignition switch? Without having to rip apart the console?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 
I'm confused, is the switch in the steering column or the dash? Does your steering wheel lock with the key out? You might have to jack up the front wheels to check. Many of the locking columns were phased out over the years so not every model has them. If the wheel does not lock it may in fact be the switch. If it does you need to make sure turning the wheel hard in both directions while turning the key gets it to turn on.
As long as you have the key the lock cylinder is not hard to remove assuming it is in the column. If it is in the dash you have a Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) and as far as I know it has nothing to do with the steering wheel locking.
 
It is dash mounted, not steering column, when it does this, it acts like the steering wheel is being turned against the switch preventing it from turning, until you turn the wheel to free it.

Does the dash switch have a brake interlock or is it a starter interlock? I though it was a starter engagement lockout but ???
 
My 2010 has a regular metal key with the ignition switch in the dash. The steering wheel also locks when key is in off position.
 
What is a starter interlock? It doesn't have a brake interlock. Now, every so often, when I start it, I have to turn the key from the start position by hand, it does not return to the run position. Before it worked as it was spring loaded back to the run position.
 
Does your key look like the one in the picture below??? If so, you have a WIN module as sag2 said.

Do not mess around with it or put it off until later, get it fixed now because a failure will put you on foot. I have had a battle with WIN modules this fall on my wife's Town and Country mini-van.

Fobik.jpg


Mike.

Fobik.jpg
 
Send the last 6 digits of your VIN. Unless your truck was built for export, it should not have a lock according to the service info. I have never seen a truck with steering column lock module

The WIN is an integrated electronic receiver that replaces the ignition switch. The WIN communicates with other electronic modules in the vehicle over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus.

The WIN interfaces with the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) FOBIK and the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) sensors (if equipped) using Radio Frequency (RF) communication. It also communicates with the TPM trigger transponders (if equipped) and steering column lock module (if equipped) using a Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus connection.

The WIN provides a switched 12-volt source through an isolated switch for the steering column lock module required for certain export market vehicles. It also contains a key removal inhibit solenoid, an electronic Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) solenoid, a key-in warning contact and it serves as the real time vehicle clock by transmitting the clock information to other electronic modules over the CAN data bus.

The WIN cannot be adjusted or repaired, but is flash update capable. If ineffective or damaged, the entire WIN must be replaced. When replacing the WIN, you must also replace the steering column lock module (if equipped).
 
Just a long shot, but are you doing anything, or have you added anything like a block heater, radio, wireless phone, etc? Something that could interfere with radio signals from the key's chip?
 
Or something that could interfere with radio signals from a chip in the dash? What about the battery in the key--I think there is one and is it fresh?
 
when I put the key in the ignition and it won't turn
Now, every so often, when I start it, I have to turn the key from the start position by hand, it does not return to the run position.
Before it worked as it was spring loaded back to the run position.

If there is no brake interlock on the switch to physically stop it from turning and it just has a starter interlock to keep the engine from starting unless the brake is depressed, there is something pysically wrong with the dash switch. All the WIN modules and all the communications protocols and all the aftermarket add ons make ZERO difference if the switch is broke and will not physically turn.

Since it doesn't seem possible to get an answer on whether the switch itself has a physical interlock, probably time to replace the dash switch. Hopefully the physical portion is seperate from any electronic components and it is simple plug and play. If not, then you might get into replacing modules and reprogramming.
 
OK, I misunderstood the first post. Your problem is the key does not turn, not the steering wheel locks. You need the WIN replaced.
 
So, question is, since there is only 1 dealer where I live, the next closest is 400 miles away. (The dealer in town sucks the big one and I have never returned to those worthless douchebags since Dec 2011.)
How do I remove the switch from the dashboard, the 6 of the VIN are: 538134. Don't advise me to take it to the dealer, since that isn't happening, unless I make a 400 mile trip in about 6 months.
Thanks for the assist and have a Merry Christmas
 
Since it doesn't seem possible to get an answer on whether the switch itself has a physical interlock, probably time to replace the dash switch. Hopefully the physical portion is seperate from any electronic components and it is simple plug and play. If not, then you might get into replacing modules and reprogramming.

Cerberusiam, on the backside of the switch, it has a 6-wire connector, that is all I can see looking up under the dashboard. All I want to do, is be able to pull this switch out without having to disassemble the entire dashboard. Could be some crud or whatever may have gotten into the switch, or if I have to will buy a new one and plug and drive away.
Thanks for the assist and Merry Christmas
 
Sorry, you have to return to the dealer like it or not. Your truck has Sentry Key so the new WIN has to be programmed to the ECM or the truck will just start and die. Make sure you take all the keys with you.
 
Unfortunately, its a dealer trip as Sag2 says. If the WIN modlue is part of the switch you have no choice. Part of the problems with these newer trucks, you have an umbilical to the dealer whether you like it or not because they are sometimes the only source of the programming and tools.
 
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