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Swr or dwr

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Buying a new fiver. Bunkhouse vs toy hauler.

Trailer tires

Hi i pull a 40 ft rv toy hauler with a 2007 ram 3500 dwr 4x4 6.7 3.73 gears auto trans think of going ram 3500 swr 4x4 6.7 3.42 gears auto trans any input on the diff in towing thanks
 
For that big and heavy trailer, I think DRW would be better, and the only way to get 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Check the towing ratings; you may need 4.10 to be safe and legal at your weight.
 
I tow with a dually and my son tows with the same truck as a SRW (3500).... we both pull about 15K lbs... and he's driven my truck towing my trailer... BTW we both have 19.5" tires... which are really firm... I've not driven his truck towing... but he's commented that he likes the dually better.... I tow 75-80% of the time.... he tows maybe 25% of the time.. He's more than happy, but he's and engineer and understand the short comings of his truck and I think it makes him more careful...

So that's my 2 cents worth....
 
With a Toy Hauler that large you are in DRW country. There is a good chance you will be over the rear axle and GVWR weight of a SW 3500. I have the 4:10's and would never have a towing Ram without them now. Our last DRW had 3:73's.
 
Hi i pull a 40 ft rv toy hauler with a 2007 ram 3500 dwr 4x4 6.7 3.73 gears auto trans think of going ram 3500 swr 4x4 6.7 3.42 gears auto trans any input on the diff in towing thanks

Hi; I know a 40Ft trailer will weigh more than a 30ft trailer in some cases. But the length has nothing to do with if you get a DRW truck or a SRW truck; what really matters is the towing mass (weight) of the trailer and contents you are pulling. You need to know the trailer GCW rating and what your truck is certified for in towing mass (weight) this will determine if you should get a DRW or a SRW.

In my case I am pulling a 35’ ft 5er but the GCW rating is around 11,000 LBS. My trailer axle load is 8,140 LBS and the rear axle weights with trailer attached 5,160 LBs and the front axle 4,940 LBS and the total GCW are 18,240 LBS which is under the load ratings for my truck. So I am pulling this with a SRW truck.

Jim W.
 
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Hi i pull a 40 ft rv toy hauler with a 2007 ram 3500 dwr 4x4 6.7 3.73 gears auto trans think of going ram 3500 swr 4x4 6.7 3.42 gears auto trans any input on the diff in towing thanks

The new 3500 SRW have much higher tow capacities. So, if the new SRW truck is rated to pull your trailer, go for it. I have a DRW converted 2500 but when I buy a replacement truck, it will be 3500 SRW since it's legally rated to pull my current TH.
 
Hi; I know a 40Ft trailer will weigh more than a 30ft trailer in some cases. But the length has nothing to do with if you get a DRW truck or a SRW truck; what really matters is the towing mass (weight) of the trailer and contents you are pulling. You need to know the trailer GCW rating and what your truck is certified for in towing mass (weight) this will determine if you should get a DRW or a SRW.

In my case I am pulling a 35’ ft 5er but the GCW rating is around 11,000 LBS. My trailer axle load is 8,140 LBS and the rear axle weights with trailer attached 5,160 LBs and the front axle 4,940 LBS and the total GCW are 18,240 LBS which is under the load ratings for my truck. So I am pulling this with a SRW truck.

Jim W.

I totally disagree!

Length does matter because there is more mass that has to be controlled. Example high winds.

Op you already know you need a dually for such a large and heavy RV.
 
The new 3500 SRW have much higher tow capacities. So, if the new SRW truck is rated to pull your trailer, go for it. I have a DRW converted 2500 but when I buy a replacement truck, it will be 3500 SRW since it's legally rated to pull my current TH.
It's not just tow ratings that need to be watched. You also have to be watchful of GVW and axle weights. In this sue happy world we live in if you are in a accident and hurt somebody whether or not it's you fault you will be better off if you are not over you ratings for the truck. Just saying.
 
I started out years ago with an '87 D-350 with a Coachmen truck camper and pulling a four-horse trailer. I never felt comfortable after leaving my driveway. Today, I snort and go with the big boys and never look back. DRW's are the only way to go with a large camper with weight or sail issues. And my wife says,"X2!".
Ed
 
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Have a 6'8" X 32' Gooseneck Brand stock trailer (aluminum) 3-7000k axles put 7 mules and 1 horse with 4 or 5 bales of hay on top rack and tack in nose for packing with 6 of the mules, riding tack for 1 mule and 1 horse. Sorry I don't know the weight of the trailer off hand.

Drop it on the 3/4 ton 3.73 rear, Truck below, AND HAVE NO PROBLEMS WITH IT AT ALL!!!
 
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It's not just tow ratings that need to be watched. You also have to be watchful of GVW and axle weights. In this sue happy world we live in if you are in a accident and hurt somebody whether or not it's you fault you will be better off if you are not over you ratings for the truck. Just saying.

See post #7. Just saying.
 
I have a 3000lb slide in camper and a 24' Rinker that I pull behind the truck and camper. The 2500 did just fine with it but I'm not comfortable with all that weight on the rear tires rolling down hot asphalt when it's 100F+ so recently purchased a 3500 dually to be closer to the safe side, not to mention the added stability. If you're rolling 50 miles down the road once or twice a year that's one thing but if you're putting the miles on why would you pull a 40' fiver with a single wheel truck. The dually will be safer for your family and those around you.
 
FWIW, I have a 2013 2500 rated at 25K GCVW. I tow a 17K toy hauler weekends etc. Not cross country etc like some of these guys. 3:42 ratio etc. I come in under 25K, not by much, and both axles are in spec, not over on either. She tows good and stops good. The ONLY difference I see from this 2500-RAM 2013 model from the 2012 Max tow dually is a minor if any at all side stability in heavy wind.

If my tow percentage was over 30%-40% of the time, I'd go dually. I'm at 10-20% max so the SRW works great for me. Its also a daily driver too.
RAM trailer pic3 dec 2013.JPG


RAM trailer pic3 dec 2013.JPG
 
I towed my 37.5' toy hauler with my '06 2500 and it could be a hand full in cross winds. Now with the '12 dually I hardly notice the cross winds. It's not a pure apples to apples comparison because I had the short box on the 06 but the dually sure makes it nice. I had 3.73 gears in both trucks. Needless to say the '12's 800 ft lbs made a huge difference.
 
I've been towing 5th wheels with duallies since 1996. Why not take advantage of the higher GVWR and rear GAWR of the dually, not to mention the improved stability, if you're going to tow a 40' toyhauler? At the end of the day, whatever you choose, I'd be sure that you can tow within ALL of the truck's ratings (GCWR, GVWR and GAWRs) if you're buying a new tow vehicle - why buy something that's running over a rating from day 1, whether that's a SRW or DRW?

Rusty
 
I made the switch to a DRW when we still had a 30ft bumper pull Arctic Fox weighing in around 10K and even with that rig there was a big difference in stability between our 03 2500 SRW and our 05 3500 DRW. My wife even noticed it. I can't see us ever going back to a SRW as long as we are pulling any thing over 30ft. ( I don't think Laura would let me! :) )
 
Won't argue with BugOut's numbers but there is no comparison between towing with a SRW and a DRW. I would not personally tow his combo. My combo is 28K+ and there is no way with 4,500# pin weight I would tow with any SRW truck.

Until you have been hit with a sidewind with a SRW then towed with a DRW you just don't know…...
 
I will not go back to a SRW tow rig, I will not let that happen and my wife WILL NOT LET THAT HAPPEN... Much more stable in side winds, the twisties, passing big trucks ETC the list goes on and on. There are 3 down sides to duallys, #1=more tires to replace, #2=wider if you use your truck to get groceries or park in a small garage. #3= I cant think of any other down side, sorry.
 
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